machining the wheel hub question
01-08-07, 02:39 PM
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machining the wheel hub question
ok first to say i have been using the search for 2 days and learning about offsets.
as you may know i just got 19x8.5 w/ i think a +35 offset. and the wheels are flush with the fenders, maybe in just a bit. tires are 235/35/19. now i want to drop it with some tanabe's, but i know i will have to probably roll the fenders and/or add neg. camber, which i have called midas and pepboys and they say i need a camber kit, but if did my searching right the 1gen LS can add just enough neg camber w/out a kit.
question is would it be smart or worth it to take it back to the shop and have them shave the hub so the wheel goes in further and then when i lower it and have 3 people in the back i will not have worry about rolling the fender or the wheel hitting anyhing?
or am i just being paranoid about the whole thing and stop being a baby, roll the fenders and add a little neg camber, if needed, just so the tires do not butterfly on the inside, and DROP IT LIKES IT HOT?
side of car
as you may know i just got 19x8.5 w/ i think a +35 offset. and the wheels are flush with the fenders, maybe in just a bit. tires are 235/35/19. now i want to drop it with some tanabe's, but i know i will have to probably roll the fenders and/or add neg. camber, which i have called midas and pepboys and they say i need a camber kit, but if did my searching right the 1gen LS can add just enough neg camber w/out a kit.
question is would it be smart or worth it to take it back to the shop and have them shave the hub so the wheel goes in further and then when i lower it and have 3 people in the back i will not have worry about rolling the fender or the wheel hitting anyhing?
or am i just being paranoid about the whole thing and stop being a baby, roll the fenders and add a little neg camber, if needed, just so the tires do not butterfly on the inside, and DROP IT LIKES IT HOT?
side of car
01-08-07, 04:47 PM
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wow. just wow.
first off, machining the hub assembly is totally unheard of. waste of time, money, and most importantly, time
second, push your car down. from the trunk or wherever. keep pushing it down until the tire TUCKS....
oh wait. :ugh:
naturally, the lower the car is, the more camber you get (unless you are doing realignment). the reason behind this is because of the McPherson strut layout. you notice the whole strut isn't exactly lined up at 90 degrees-there's an angle to it. that angle will reflect camber. another is the lca layout. one side gets bolted onto the chassis, the other to the hub. there is more weight on the frame than on the hub. the car pushes one side of the lca down and the strut guides the other side of the lca up. as you lower the car, the whole arm is being pushed up and guided by the strut. this causes the arm to move inward. now, the upper control arm plays a factor as well... but i dont think i want to get into this as its more of a general, technical overview.
well to save you time, i will let you know right now. (i just said it a few lines up) it will not touch the fender at all. probably by a good... 1 to 2 inches of gap. thats plenty of clearance with your tire size. and... if and once u roll your fenders with that wheel size, you will look ridiculous with that fender gap. also, the fenders on the ls has 2 layers of metal or something.. have fun rolling them if u plan on doing it. otherwise, shave them -it's a much better method than rolling imo
oh yeah, springs will get you nowhere. go coilover or air unless you have no $. i'll admit that i have springs on stock struts. i only did it to get the gist of things like which tools(size) to use for suspension.
first off, machining the hub assembly is totally unheard of. waste of time, money, and most importantly, time
second, push your car down. from the trunk or wherever. keep pushing it down until the tire TUCKS....
oh wait. :ugh:
naturally, the lower the car is, the more camber you get (unless you are doing realignment). the reason behind this is because of the McPherson strut layout. you notice the whole strut isn't exactly lined up at 90 degrees-there's an angle to it. that angle will reflect camber. another is the lca layout. one side gets bolted onto the chassis, the other to the hub. there is more weight on the frame than on the hub. the car pushes one side of the lca down and the strut guides the other side of the lca up. as you lower the car, the whole arm is being pushed up and guided by the strut. this causes the arm to move inward. now, the upper control arm plays a factor as well... but i dont think i want to get into this as its more of a general, technical overview.
well to save you time, i will let you know right now. (i just said it a few lines up) it will not touch the fender at all. probably by a good... 1 to 2 inches of gap. thats plenty of clearance with your tire size. and... if and once u roll your fenders with that wheel size, you will look ridiculous with that fender gap. also, the fenders on the ls has 2 layers of metal or something.. have fun rolling them if u plan on doing it. otherwise, shave them -it's a much better method than rolling imo
oh yeah, springs will get you nowhere. go coilover or air unless you have no $. i'll admit that i have springs on stock struts. i only did it to get the gist of things like which tools(size) to use for suspension.
Last edited by chubby; 01-08-07 at 05:42 PM.
01-08-07, 06:20 PM
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wow. just wow.
first off, machining the hub assembly is totally unheard of. waste of time, money, and most importantly, time
second, push your car down. from the trunk or wherever. keep pushing it down until the tire TUCKS....
oh wait. :ugh:
naturally, the lower the car is, the more camber you get (unless you are doing realignment). the reason behind this is because of the McPherson strut layout. you notice the whole strut isn't exactly lined up at 90 degrees-there's an angle to it. that angle will reflect camber. another is the lca layout. one side gets bolted onto the chassis, the other to the hub. there is more weight on the frame than on the hub. the car pushes one side of the lca down and the strut guides the other side of the lca up. as you lower the car, the whole arm is being pushed up and guided by the strut. this causes the arm to move inward. now, the upper control arm plays a factor as well... but i dont think i want to get into this as its more of a general, technical overview.
well to save you time, i will let you know right now. (i just said it a few lines up) it will not touch the fender at all. probably by a good... 1 to 2 inches of gap. thats plenty of clearance with your tire size. and... if and once u roll your fenders with that wheel size, you will look ridiculous with that fender gap. also, the fenders on the ls has 2 layers of metal or something.. have fun rolling them if u plan on doing it. otherwise, shave them -it's a much better method than rolling imo
oh yeah, springs will get you nowhere. go coilover or air unless you have no $. i'll admit that i have springs on stock struts. i only did it to get the gist of things like which tools(size) to use for suspension.
first off, machining the hub assembly is totally unheard of. waste of time, money, and most importantly, time
second, push your car down. from the trunk or wherever. keep pushing it down until the tire TUCKS....
oh wait. :ugh:
naturally, the lower the car is, the more camber you get (unless you are doing realignment). the reason behind this is because of the McPherson strut layout. you notice the whole strut isn't exactly lined up at 90 degrees-there's an angle to it. that angle will reflect camber. another is the lca layout. one side gets bolted onto the chassis, the other to the hub. there is more weight on the frame than on the hub. the car pushes one side of the lca down and the strut guides the other side of the lca up. as you lower the car, the whole arm is being pushed up and guided by the strut. this causes the arm to move inward. now, the upper control arm plays a factor as well... but i dont think i want to get into this as its more of a general, technical overview.
well to save you time, i will let you know right now. (i just said it a few lines up) it will not touch the fender at all. probably by a good... 1 to 2 inches of gap. thats plenty of clearance with your tire size. and... if and once u roll your fenders with that wheel size, you will look ridiculous with that fender gap. also, the fenders on the ls has 2 layers of metal or something.. have fun rolling them if u plan on doing it. otherwise, shave them -it's a much better method than rolling imo
oh yeah, springs will get you nowhere. go coilover or air unless you have no $. i'll admit that i have springs on stock struts. i only did it to get the gist of things like which tools(size) to use for suspension.
chubby, well money is kind of a factor, plus i just put new shocks on a year ago and the car only has 97600 so i do not want to go money crazy, just fix it up for now, instead of buying a new car. now i did have 2 people get in the trunk and push down and by the looks of it i will need to shave the lip, cause the tire will hit it. but what you are saying if i am right if i lower it 1.5 in. and then if people get in the car the wheel will make more dermastic camber up into the the wheel well and i will not scrape the rim, so i do not need a camber kit like the shops right telling me?
plus when you say ridiculous is ridiculous like this
what i am going for or ridiculous like this which i am not
no offence, just trying to give an example
Last edited by VicFerrari; 01-08-07 at 07:15 PM.
01-08-07, 11:17 PM
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ridiculous in a bad sense (#2). i have 19x9+27, 235/35/19 in the back and i am not having a problem at all. as a matter of fact, i have 19x8.5+33, 235/25/19 in the front with a 15mm spacer to clear the brakes and i'm perfectly content with my non-staggered tire setup. (my wheels seems to be a super low disk, hence the spacers) if you think 8.5 is too wide, heck i am getting another set of 15mm spacers for the rear. dial in camber and call it a day or go poorman and hope it'll slide in w/o need of reallignment.
oh yeah, i already tested out my 19x8.5+33 with a 235/35/19 tire on the rear and did the jump on the car/put weight on the car test and it cleared. looks like you have khumo tires from the pic. also, as an alternative, u can jack up the car, then jack up the wheel all the way up until the tire starts tucking. you will know immediately if you need to do anything. actually.. come to think of it, i dont even think those tanabe springs will even lower your car much to the point where you have to worry. since your shocks are new, the strut is less likely to bottom out and go under unless the tanabe springs have a weak spring rate. anyways..
here is a ****ty camera phone pic of my ls for troof
oh yeah, i already tested out my 19x8.5+33 with a 235/35/19 tire on the rear and did the jump on the car/put weight on the car test and it cleared. looks like you have khumo tires from the pic. also, as an alternative, u can jack up the car, then jack up the wheel all the way up until the tire starts tucking. you will know immediately if you need to do anything. actually.. come to think of it, i dont even think those tanabe springs will even lower your car much to the point where you have to worry. since your shocks are new, the strut is less likely to bottom out and go under unless the tanabe springs have a weak spring rate. anyways..
here is a ****ty camera phone pic of my ls for troof
Last edited by chubby; 01-08-07 at 11:26 PM.
01-09-07, 12:07 AM
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thanks for the tips, i do not think 8.5 is to wide, i think they are just prefect.
the tires are actually falken's
and by the way what year is your car? it looks about '95 or so, mine is a '92
you also said that shaving the fenders is better, what is the best why to shave them could i use my dremel and grinder?
the tires are actually falken's
and by the way what year is your car? it looks about '95 or so, mine is a '92
you also said that shaving the fenders is better, what is the best why to shave them could i use my dremel and grinder?
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01-09-07, 01:50 AM
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thanks for the tips, i do not think 8.5 is to wide, i think they are just prefect.
the tires are actually falken's
and by the way what year is your car? it looks about '95 or so, mine is a '92
you also said that shaving the fenders is better, what is the best why to shave them could i use my dremel and grinder?
the tires are actually falken's
and by the way what year is your car? it looks about '95 or so, mine is a '92
you also said that shaving the fenders is better, what is the best why to shave them could i use my dremel and grinder?
follow this thread taken from the socal subforum. imo, this is not a diy unless you have a lot of experience with cutting metal. you do not want jaggies on the fender. if u diy and mess up, that's all she wrote. my car is a ucf20(95-00) before minor change (95-97)
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=234693
01-09-07, 05:17 PM
#11
thanks for the tips, i do not think 8.5 is to wide, i think they are just prefect.
the tires are actually falken's
and by the way what year is your car? it looks about '95 or so, mine is a '92
you also said that shaving the fenders is better, what is the best why to shave them could i use my dremel and grinder?
the tires are actually falken's
and by the way what year is your car? it looks about '95 or so, mine is a '92
you also said that shaving the fenders is better, what is the best why to shave them could i use my dremel and grinder?
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