How to fix your speedo needle when it does not work
05-13-09, 04:31 AM
#76
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Power steering not working help
My power steering is not working,this is my first lexus,,car run great,,is there a fuse for this problem? and if it is,,can someone tell me the fuse it is?
its a 1993 ls400
its a 1993 ls400
Last edited by phillyCLUB; 05-13-09 at 04:32 AM. Reason: fprgot something to say
06-07-09, 11:53 AM
#78
I just finished the "sticking needles" fix as described by RickyGee in post #59 (03-21-08). My tachometer and speedometer on my 93 LS usually do not immediately work when the temperature is hot. It is about 83 today in Birmingham, and they worked perfectly when I reinstalled the instrument cluster.
The biggest hurdle was removing the cluster. The three connectors are difficult to disconnect because of the tightness of the space. One really needs three hands to hold the cluster, push down on the release pins, and pull out the connectors.
After I got the parts disassembled and could see the backs of the needles and the stops they contact at zero, I couldn't immediately see how I would get anything into place to remove the liquefied lubricant that is causing the problem. RickyGee used a Q-tip. The space is really tight, and I didn't even try to get a Q-tip into the space. I found that a pipe cleaner would work. I sprayed some solvent (Xenit) on the end of the pipe cleaner and then pushed it into position between the needle and the stop. (Move the front part of the needle up from zero to get space between the stop and needle back.) The stop is a tiny metal piece, and the back of the needles appears to be plastic. You can barely see the place where they make contact. I rubbed the pipe cleaner on the metal stop and then pushed the needle back against the pipe cleaner and twisted the pipe cleaner. I hope the problem is solved.
One thing I would recommend for everyone is to make a chart of which type of screws go where when disassembling the various parts of the cluster. Some screws are regular phillips head screws that screw into plastic and hold the parts together. Other screws are elongated screws that both hold components in place and apparently complete electrical circuits. Furthermore, there are two sizes of these elongated screws, and you have to be certain you get the right ones in the right holes.
It probably took me about two hours to get the job done. I do a lot of my mechanical work (oil changes, brakes, etc.); however, I am not an electronics person. This is a job that just about anyone who is very careful about handling the cluster components should be able to do.
The biggest hurdle was removing the cluster. The three connectors are difficult to disconnect because of the tightness of the space. One really needs three hands to hold the cluster, push down on the release pins, and pull out the connectors.
After I got the parts disassembled and could see the backs of the needles and the stops they contact at zero, I couldn't immediately see how I would get anything into place to remove the liquefied lubricant that is causing the problem. RickyGee used a Q-tip. The space is really tight, and I didn't even try to get a Q-tip into the space. I found that a pipe cleaner would work. I sprayed some solvent (Xenit) on the end of the pipe cleaner and then pushed it into position between the needle and the stop. (Move the front part of the needle up from zero to get space between the stop and needle back.) The stop is a tiny metal piece, and the back of the needles appears to be plastic. You can barely see the place where they make contact. I rubbed the pipe cleaner on the metal stop and then pushed the needle back against the pipe cleaner and twisted the pipe cleaner. I hope the problem is solved.
One thing I would recommend for everyone is to make a chart of which type of screws go where when disassembling the various parts of the cluster. Some screws are regular phillips head screws that screw into plastic and hold the parts together. Other screws are elongated screws that both hold components in place and apparently complete electrical circuits. Furthermore, there are two sizes of these elongated screws, and you have to be certain you get the right ones in the right holes.
It probably took me about two hours to get the job done. I do a lot of my mechanical work (oil changes, brakes, etc.); however, I am not an electronics person. This is a job that just about anyone who is very careful about handling the cluster components should be able to do.
Last edited by CUMan; 06-07-09 at 08:00 PM. Reason: spelling
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Cactus400 (04-30-23)
06-28-09, 12:05 PM
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Thanks to all of the posters. I have a '93 LS 400 with a sticking tach and speed gauge.
I really was convinced that my problem was a sensor, now it appears it is just sticky needles. Since sending the cluster out for repair isn't practical, I only have one care, I will try the pin method.
I really was convinced that my problem was a sensor, now it appears it is just sticky needles. Since sending the cluster out for repair isn't practical, I only have one care, I will try the pin method.
07-02-09, 08:07 AM
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Hmmm... here's the problem i am having. ive had my car for over a year now and everything seemed fine but all of a sudden (just this morning) my speedo seems to not be moving with the speed. when i start the car the needle is all the way below zero and when i get going say to like 55mph the needle barely reaches 30mph. i read through this thread and went on my break to tap the speedo and the dash and with no avail it did nothing.
what should i do?
what should i do?
07-06-09, 03:26 PM
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Just got a 1996 LS400 today. Just noticed that the speedo is not working at all. Odometer and tach is working fine. From what I read, this appears to be a sticky needle issue? Can someone confirm? Thanks!
05-04-10, 03:29 PM
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Hey guys,
So all my needles work just fine, but almost two years ago now I was driving home one night and I literally saw a puff of smoke come from the needle- and it went out.
So it works fine, it just doesn't light up anymore... anyone else had a similar problem? Any ideas?
-Colin
So all my needles work just fine, but almost two years ago now I was driving home one night and I literally saw a puff of smoke come from the needle- and it went out.
So it works fine, it just doesn't light up anymore... anyone else had a similar problem? Any ideas?
-Colin
07-14-10, 06:33 AM
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I've been thinking about buying a 1996 LS400 with 44,000 miles on the odometer. A suspiciously low number, 3000/year? I have been wondering if the broken tach was possibly a sign of odometer tampering. Thanks for this thread it has helped me in the purchasing process.
10-15-10, 01:25 PM
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1993 LS400 Sticking Speedometer or Tachometer Needle with photos: problem & solution
Once the gauge and two cover pieces are removed you can access the needle limit stop arm which is hidden under the cover pieces; see the 1st photo.
The sticking is the result of material transferring from the nylon needle stop to the steel stop limit. See the 2nd photo showing the nylon stop resting against the metal stop tang. The contact point between the two is the location of material transfer.
Cleaning off the material on the metal stop, perhaps along with cleaning the nylon needle stop, will eliminate to sticking needle problem. See the 3rd photo showing the imprint of material, before cleaning, on the metal stop which has transferred from the nylon tab. This small amount of material creates just enough cling to keep the speedometer or tachometer needle stuck at zero.
The sticking is the result of material transferring from the nylon needle stop to the steel stop limit. See the 2nd photo showing the nylon stop resting against the metal stop tang. The contact point between the two is the location of material transfer.
Cleaning off the material on the metal stop, perhaps along with cleaning the nylon needle stop, will eliminate to sticking needle problem. See the 3rd photo showing the imprint of material, before cleaning, on the metal stop which has transferred from the nylon tab. This small amount of material creates just enough cling to keep the speedometer or tachometer needle stuck at zero.
Last edited by MAlvis; 10-15-10 at 01:47 PM. Reason: More explicit details
10-15-10, 11:02 PM
#89
Once the gauge and two cover pieces are removed you can access the needle limit stop arm which is hidden under the cover pieces; see the 1st photo.
The sticking is the result of material transferring from the nylon needle stop to the steel stop limit. See the 2nd photo showing the nylon stop resting against the metal stop tang. The contact point between the two is the location of material transfer.
Cleaning off the material on the metal stop, perhaps along with cleaning the nylon needle stop, will eliminate to sticking needle problem. See the 3rd photo showing the imprint of material, before cleaning, on the metal stop which has transferred from the nylon tab. This small amount of material creates just enough cling to keep the speedometer or tachometer needle stuck at zero.
The sticking is the result of material transferring from the nylon needle stop to the steel stop limit. See the 2nd photo showing the nylon stop resting against the metal stop tang. The contact point between the two is the location of material transfer.
Cleaning off the material on the metal stop, perhaps along with cleaning the nylon needle stop, will eliminate to sticking needle problem. See the 3rd photo showing the imprint of material, before cleaning, on the metal stop which has transferred from the nylon tab. This small amount of material creates just enough cling to keep the speedometer or tachometer needle stuck at zero.
11-02-10, 10:34 PM
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well im not sure if its the nylon piece thats stuck to the metal piece of the speedometer needle BUT i notice that when im driving on the freeway 65mph and UP, the needle moves up to 20 mph. does that mean its a wire/electrical issue or just that i need to clean the speedometer needle like the guy above showed ^^^^ , thx.