LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

DIY Guide for Lower Ball Joints

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Old 07-18-06, 12:58 AM
  #31  
Suneet
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What are the benefits to getting the tie rod ends replaced? Is this a common part that needs to replaced, and if so, how often? I'm definitely going to replace the lower ball joints, about to order them now, but the tie rod ends are a little more costly. I think the new ball joints will tighten up my steering. That combined with the Daizen bushings all around will be nice But should I replace the tie rod ends also?
Old 07-18-06, 02:05 PM
  #32  
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...considering what you're going I would replace them. Yes, it's the lower ball joints and that should tighten up your steering.
Old 10-20-06, 01:53 AM
  #33  
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Default Anyone Do The Upper Ball Joints/control Arms?

The DIY on the lower ball joints is right on time. Now I wonder if anyone has a DIY on the UPPER control arms, which have the upper ball joints as an integral part of the entire arm.

I'll keep looking.

Thanks
Old 10-20-06, 03:17 AM
  #34  
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www.lexls.com

^Has an upper control arm removal/install tutorial...fairly simple looking too.
Old 10-25-06, 09:13 AM
  #35  
kswagner
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Default Ball Joints and Outer Tie-Rod Ends

I am thinking of attempting this. I can do most minor repair work on a vehicle (brakes, belts, oil change, external engine components,etc.) but am a little concerned about tackling this job. The write-up is great. However, I have a question about the boots protecting the joints and the reverse order assembly.

1st Question: Do you pry those boots off completely with a screw driver exposing the rubber joint beneath? I dont want to crack these things. Also, on re-assembly, how do you place the boots back over the new joint?

2nd Question: When re-installing in reverse order, do you use the puller in reverse order to reinstall the bolts in the tie rod and ball joint? Im concerned b/c you use the puller to remove the bolts but how do you re-install the bolts with the new ball joint and tie-rod? It appears that you would need the same amount of force from the puller to re-install but the write-up didnt go into that...

I have a 98 GS400 - are the ball joint and tie rod repair relatively the same?

Thanks in advance - KSW
Old 10-29-06, 11:18 AM
  #36  
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bump to the top
Old 10-29-06, 06:38 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by kswagner

2nd Question: When re-installing in reverse order, do you use the puller in reverse order to reinstall the bolts in the tie rod and ball joint? Im concerned b/c you use the puller to remove the bolts but how do you re-install the bolts with the new ball joint and tie-rod? It appears that you would need the same amount of force from the puller to re-install but the write-up didnt go into that...

Thanks in advance - KSW

I'm not sure if these are the same on the GS400. Actually you don't need the puller to push them back in, they go in pretty easily. You don't actually apply that much force to seperate them either, you just need the puller to get at the exact spot to seperate them.
Old 11-03-06, 03:10 AM
  #38  
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Just replaced lower ball joints. Shop did it for $160. Car is 16 years old, ball joints were loose when off. Shop said outer tie rod ends were OK. Thanks to all for info. Car tended to wander a little before, now its rock steady and a real pleasure to drive. Just wanted to say thanks to all for your posts. You helped to define the problem and get it fixed without spendind tons of $$ to replace whole suspension.
Old 11-14-06, 08:55 AM
  #39  
kswagner
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Default Im gonna attempt this on my GS400

Hope everything is similar to this thread. Any help from those who have performed this DIY on a GS400 would be greatly appreciated.....I will try and take pics of the steps so we have a GS400 DIY, unless I run into problems and throw my digital camera at the front axle.......

KSW
Old 11-14-06, 09:00 AM
  #40  
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Default Im gonna attempt this on my GS400

Hope everything is similar to this thread. Any help from those who have performed this DIY on a GS400 would be greatly appreciated.....I will try and take pics of the steps so we have a GS400 DIY, unless I run into problems and throw my digital camera at the front axle.......

KSW
Old 11-17-06, 12:35 PM
  #41  
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I changed the upper control arms on my 99 GS400 yesterday, and the popping noise is still there. I'll do the lowers tonight. I really didn't need the uppers, but I have already done it now. I don't have to worry about now for at least another 129,000 miles.

My biggest problem is on the drivers' side. I have popping noise on that side. I put a board under the left front wheel and lifted up. I have minimal slack there and none on the passenger side. Hopefully the lower ball joint will fix that. After that I will be grabbing at straws. I will next go to the upper shock mount.

The only good thing about changing these parts is that it eliminates the fear of them going bad for a long time to come. Both upper control arms and ball joints were good and fully greased. I worried so much about them breaking as I have seen on some of the owners' cars here on Clublexus.

I feel bad that we don't have a way to lube these ball joints, but Toyota makes quality parts. I didn't feel that ball joints should be replaced every 90,000 to 100,000 miles on a GS. I have stock suspension and tires.(16 inch), which explains why I got 129,000 miles so far with no problems. I also don't have the "wandering" some owners talk about, but now that I spent over 1000 bucks for theparts, I'll put them on and hope I find why the front end is clicking. Something is loose, but I don't know what. I know it is not in the parts I have changed so far.

I'll keep everyone posted!
Old 12-01-06, 07:38 PM
  #42  
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I am going to attempt this repair on my 98 gs400 tomorrow morning. Any last minute tips would be greatly appreciated.....hope the LS400 and GS400 are very similar. I have already noticed that the nuts holding the ball joints and rods are smaller (something like 17mm).
Old 02-24-07, 04:18 PM
  #43  
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11/16 inch fits perfectly for the cliper bolts and the 2 smaller bolts. the 2 main botls were like 3/4 inch. I need to get the tierod separator tomorrow to complete this job.
Old 03-04-07, 06:32 PM
  #44  
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Thanks for the DIY guide. I just did the job myself on my '96 LS. Everything that you said matches up to my car except for the nut holding the lower ball joint down to the lower control arm - on my car it's 24mm.
Old 03-05-07, 07:46 PM
  #45  
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Thermactor....how could you tell that you had bad lowers??


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