fjstl

This is a terrific car and I'm new to this make. Because the car wasn't starting, I and my mechanic thought it was possible that all of my keys may have been corrupted because of their being placed on top of a mobil swipe card. The keys checked out ok and the car still won't start. My mechanic believes the problem is in the immobilizer and is changing the "amplifier" which I believe sends a signal from a transponder key to the rf remote security center that tells the car to start. I've been told that they don't believe it is in the ecm, as there are no codes and the car was running absolutely beautiful until it decided to just spin over without starting. The sound is like a broken timing belt sound, but thats been ruled out.

Has anyone experienced such a problem, and if so how was it resolved and what did it cost? Does anyone have any suggestions?

I am desparate for help. thank you.

gserep1

Hello,
You never mentioned how old your car is and what kind of service it has had recently. The engine spins over, but doesn't catch. What about using a set of keys that have not been subjected to the Mobil swipe card. If you try that, and it still doesn't start, then that rules out the swipe card theory.

I would then check the ECU-1B fuse under the hood. This is the one we all pull out to reset our ECM's from time to time. But you can also check that by verifying that you have all your radio presets. If those are still intact,. then it is not the fuse. If the fuse is okay, then you are into some deep electrical concerns, and it may be the immobiliser, but this is highly unusual under normal circumstances,

You will have to check for fuel pump operation when you first turn on the ignition switch, as well as ignition spark to the spark plugs.

Without knowing more about your particular situation, any more advice would be purely speculative at this point. Make sure you have the obvious...(fresh battery, fresh fuel of sufficient quantity, fuel pump to delier fuel, and ignition to deliver spark. SOMEWHERE along this line, there will be something wrong.

Keep us apprised of your progress, and best of luck to you.

SharpLS-96

His car is a 97.
Check the "sending unit" as well as the "fuel pump".
The 1B fuse.
Engine immobilizer
Starter
Battery

fjstl

To gserep1;

it's my understanding that all of the areas you mentioined have been tested, which is why they are leaning towards an immobilizer problem. If it is in the immobilizer, what suggestions do you or anyone else have? Today, they are going to replace the amplifier which sends the signal from the key to the receiver. Whatever happens if that doesn't work is guess work. Which is why I am looking in all areas for help. thanks.

fjstl

there has to be someone out there that either has experienced a problem like mine or knows someone who has. I need help. thanks.

SharpLS-96

Your mechanic can't be that competent if he's had your car this many days and can't pinpoint the problem.

Did he check to make sure the factory alarm is operating correctly? Sounds like that might be the problem as well, not disengaging the engine kill.
Where are you located in N.Y.?

fjstl

I'm located in albany NY. And they are highly recommended. thanks for the reply

fjstl

thanks for the responses. looks like I may be forced to tow it to the dealership if the next step doesn't resolve the problem. thanks again.

RedAE102

If it's a '97 LS, it doesn't have an immobiliser key... My '96 did this for about a day a year ago... as soon as it was towed to my mechanic, it started right up. Beyond that, if the factory alarm still has the engine kill on, it wouldn't be turning over, correct? Has the mechanic checked to see if the engine computer threw any codes? Assuming you're getting spark, fuel is the next thing to check.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The '97+ has the ignition immobilizer and transponder key. Don't hunt around in the hope this mechanic can diagnose it properly, this is one of those services that is better handled by the dealer IMO.

fjstl

to RA40 and everyone else that has replied. From what I can gather and from the manual it does have the transponder key with the ignition immobilizer so it looks like I'll be towing it to the dealer tomorrow. thanks again.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Keep us posted on the progress.

I had an electrical issue just weeks ago...when unlocking the door, it would unlock itself multiple times and roll the driver window down. The advisor had not encountered this problem and a call to my Toyota repair shop, the advisor there had heard of it but it was very rare. In 15 minutes, the Lexus repair shop called to relay what the problem was...a worn contact in the driver door key cylinder. $475 later, it was fixed...man did that hurt.

fjstl

thank you. Maybe I'll be as lucky.

fjstl

well it's been fixed and is running like new. It turned out to be the amplifier that sits behind the glove box and it sends the signal between the transponder key and the computer. The garage I take it to in Albany is Larry's Foreign Auto and when you figure in what the dealership would have charged for this repair, I paid very little, < $400. I guess you need to be a little patient when dealing with some of the rare problems that may occur with these cars.

Thanks for all the responses. This is an excellent site.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Glad to hear you got it fixed and that the mechanic's suspicions were right.