LexiTwo

Had to replace both front wheel bearings at less than 100,000 miles. Not cheap. Dealer wanted over $3000 in Canada, so I went with after market Can't imagine they will be much worse..Still cost $2300.
I also own a SC 430 and a RX330.with higher mileage...no problem there. Is this common for the LS460

Toys4RJill

That is a lot money.

How does one know that the their wheel bearings are shot?

SW17LS

I've never read of that being a common issue. But...for wheel bearings...$2,300 for aftermarket parts? Thats absurd...where did you have the work done?

Common symptom of a bad wheel bearing is a grinding or dragging sound when the wheels are turning.

Lextrician

Yeah wheel bearings should not cost that much and the diy is pretty str8 forward.

Lextrician

http://m.ebay.com/itm/07-13-LS460-LS460L-RWD-Left-Front-LF-Hub-wheel-Bearing-NEW-genuine-Lexus-OEM-/190933570641?nav=SEARCH

derpie

Had mine done was 600 for just the passenger side.

Doublebase

I had to replace my front passenger side wheel bearing, it was a pretty straight forward job that I did myself. I used a Beck Arnley wheel bearing that cost me $170 bucks, the thing failed in 7,000 miles.

So I did it again using an OE wheel bearing (Koyo) and the thing cost me $320 dollars. So far so good with that wheel bearing.

I wouldn't say it's a "common" problem, and let's face it, they replaced both of your front bearings because some places like to do these things in pairs (when actually only one bearing was probably bad). And yes they told you both were bad, etc, and that's fine because maybe the other one would have failed soon anyway (or the tech may have misdiagnosed which bearing had actually failed).

They are heavy cars...the front end takes a lot of abuse for sure. The LS430 has been known to have bearings go bad around 100,000 miles too. The price you were quoted is ridiculous. I even think the price you ended up paying was high as well. I'd say $1,200 would have been fair...maybe...maybe even less.

sapstar66

Had both front ones done on my 2009 AWD. The car had less than 100,000km (60,000 mi). That was in 2014.

The car was under warranty and had no clue it was that much!

I also have a 2010 RWD with 95,000 miles and no issue what-so-ever... go figure...

mpkayeuk

Have to agree with this. Having spent a lot of time in the front wheel wells of my 2007 LS460 with the wheels and brakes off, I can say that it looks like a simple job. I'm pretty sure the front wheel bearings bolt directly to the knuckle with 4 bolts, so should be quite a simple DIY if you're that way inclined. This should obviously be reflected in dealer/independent prices too, it can't be more than about an hour or hour and a half each side for the labour - 3 hours tops for both, plus the parts.

RocketSlug

I thought it was my new tires for weeks until Discount Tire drove it slowly by a wall and I could hear the metal on metal scraping. I am lucky to have a great team by my house.

2007 LS460 SWB had to replace as well. Bought one left and one right, Timken brand () from Amazon, for a total of about $500. Since I'm in the rust belt, took days to get these things out and put the new ones in; the rust had welded them in place.

New ones in, back silent driving, increase in mpg.

About $1500. $2300 sounds about right if you didn't provide the parts, and you're not in USA.

BHoffer

Just replaced both left and right front wheel bearing hubs on a 2007 LS460 at 196k miles. On various posts and YouTube videos for this vehicle class indicate that no special tools required. Yet, some indicate one of the Hub bolts is difficult to get a socket on given its location relative to a rod end. What I found is the "no special tools" is dependent upon the sophistication of your tool box.

First: I am not sure if the stock bearings were really bad, but at nearly 200k in miles, it was certainly time. I used MOOG Wheel Bearing and Hub ordered from RockAuto. The Left Bearing, Part Number DL 513313 was $227.29. The Right Bearing, Part Number DL 513314 was $228.79 less any tax and shipping.

Second: The two "must have" tools that I found to be essential was a 17mm Deep Offset Box End Wrench and a Short Open End 17mm wrench . I used a Craftsman set for the Deep Offset; Item # 00944350000; Model 44350 in stock at Sears. The other was a Short 17mm Open End Wrench that I borrowed. The "short" part is important to get a good bite on the bolt. The box end will fit perfectly on the one Hub Bolt obscured by the Rod End. Once broken free, the short open end backed out the bolt. It is not possible to remove that bolt, it can only be backed out enough to free the Hub Assembly. Then used a 3-lb Sledge Hammer aggressively to convince the Hub to separate itself from the assembly.

Lastly: Everything else was as the various videos show. If you plan to do this work yourself with the car on jack stands, and you are a home garage mechanic, it will take about 3 - 4 hours from start to finish.

Benjam1n

Thank you for sharing with the board what tool worked to get that tough to access bolt out. I had to separate and reattach the upper ball joint multiple times because I could not get that bolt out, despite multiple trips to tool store. I will definitely get those when I do the other side. I'm wondering, do the rear bearings go bad much? Nobody seems to talk about doing those.

DavidinCT

WOW, crazy prices. I had a bad one in mine. Talked to the Indy shop I use. Ordered a replacement for $250 and the Indy shop charged me $200 to replace it. $475 after taxes etc....

Tricky to get out, that is for sure... I watched them do it.

Chaos236

iTrader: (1)

Had to do my right one at 107,000. Indy said it was a huge PIA.

BHoffer

Benjamin: To be clear, I was not able to "remove" the bolt. I was able to back the bolt completely out of the Hub, but not the mount. This brings up another point to aware of. Since the bolt was not removed from the mount, if someone is changing both sides at the same time, and turning the wheel to get better access to bolts, wiring, brakes, etc., this bolt will make contact with the rod end and could be damaged given the mechanical advantage the stearing system provides.