91 LS400 to 2007 LS460
#16
The '07 rear executive package includes air suspension and rear shades. Radar cruise is part of the pre collision package.
#17
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
The rear seats have the big fold down console with heat and air switches. Also they both recline. There is no air suspension, no switch in the front console for height. Definatly no radar cruise cause I don't have the smooth emblem in front. One of my friends came over to play pool tonight and he's gaga over the car. He had a 98 LS400 he put 300k on. Goes on and on about how that was the greatest car he ever owned.
#18
The rear seats have the big fold down console with heat and air switches. Also they both recline. There is no air suspension, no switch in the front console for height. Definatly no radar cruise cause I don't have the smooth emblem in front. One of my friends came over to play pool tonight and he's gaga over the car. He had a 98 LS400 he put 300k on. Goes on and on about how that was the greatest car he ever owned.
#20
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Hi I'm moving over here since my beloved 91 LS 400 has been traded in for a 07 LS460. Blue and Beise interior with 84k miles. I was a Volvo dealer mechanic forever so I have LOTS of dealer stories to share. Some good but let's face it the bad ones are way more entertaining. Anyway the new car is a pretty big upgrade for my 91. I hope in time I will be able to let go of the feelings I had for the greatest car I've ever owned by far.
Both cars together. I went to the lot to get title work and took the picture.
#21
I think I would just have to keep the old LS with the new one.. Just to beautiful and clean to depart with.
#22
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Last edited by Kennyr44; 12-12-15 at 07:11 AM.
#23
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I lifted it up and the control arms are original and will need to be done at some time. I don't get any noises etc at this time. The rear bushings all look perfect. I will buy aftermarket complete control arms and either put them on myself or get bids from a couple shops first for the labor.
#26
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I dove in and replaced my water pump and thermostat today. Also I changed the rear axle fluid and 2.5 qts of trans fluid. Aisin water pump from Rock Auto. I got the antifreeze and trans fluid from Toyota. The pump wasnt leaking but there was plenty of crust at the weep hole. My records showed trans fluid replacement at the Lexus dealer but I pulled the drain plug to see the color. It was not clean so I started my drain and fill regiment. Captured 2.5 and refilled 2.5 Qts. I bought the little pump that mounts on the atf bottle at Advance Auto Parts for $5. Im going to do it again a few times. Everything went smooth with no problems. I also bought a bunch of engine cover clips on ebay cheap. When I get bored down the road I will order up my control arms. Im not advocating anybody jump in and do these things but they are not hard if you've worked on cars in the past. I am an ex mechanic with a lift in my garage so Im not quite a diy situation.
Last edited by Kennyr44; 12-29-15 at 09:00 PM.
#27
Lexus Fanatic
The pump wasnt leaking but there was plenty of crust at the weep hole
As for the trans fluid replacement, did you do it with Teschstream and with the transmission temp at the correct temp when refilling? Small detail, but you're assuming that that the transmission was at a proper level when replacing 2.5 qts with 2.5 qts. This is one job I don;t mind paying my Toyota dealer 150 bucks to do. Same with the brake flush (79.99)
#28
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Yes the crusty weep hole syndrome. This is when the water pump seeps just a tiny bit on cool down. Mostly not enough to even hit the ground. It crusts up the color of the antifreeze. The Volvos used to do this all the time. I could sell a water pump job or let it go and the customer would return in 5k miles sometimes and the fluid wasnt that much lower. Anyway it can get way worse also. So the trans fluid issue. Who is to say the tech is even going to use the temp procedure. Unless your watching dont count on it. Remember I worked in a couple dealership shops for 25 years and know your chances are 50 50 you get what you pay for. If you want to be sure do it yourself or find an independent you can trust. Also hes only going to get out 2.5quarts almost nothing and charge you a bunch. This is worthless if you dont do it several times. Shooting a laser temp gun you get at harbor freight for $35 at the pan will do the same thing. But no I just measured. After a couple more times I can do the temp setting. My Mercedes doesnt even have a fill hole. You pump the atf up through the drain hole with their special screw on tool I bought. Theres a straw tube that stands up in the pan attached to the top of the drain hole. To drain first you stick a thin screwdriver up there and tilt the straw off it axis. Therefore you have to remove the pan to install a new straw. Level setting is temp related also. After all this you get about 4Qts out. The best thing to do is find someone with a flush machine and flush the tranny completely and correctly set the level using the temp method. This will be pricey and no it will NOT hurt the trans. We had a bg flush machine and I never lost a trans. In fact bg promised to cover the trans if lost and it never came up. That is total bull that it is dangerous to flush. Im going to dump and fill about 4 times and it will work and not cost much. I have plenty of time.
#29
Lexus Fanatic
There's more to the Techstream procedure than the temp setting. I can post the info, but I already did on another thread. The Techstream program opens up some valves and some other things (I forget off the top of my head). Regardless, to each his own. Glad you got everything sorted out to your satisfaction. As for whether the dealer does use TIS or not, you are correct. I made sure that my Toyota dealer did so. While I did not look over their shoulder, I did see the the tech with a laptop while he was doing the service. The good thing about the TIS procedure is that they can uplaod the trans ECU with the latest firmware/software program.
As for the water pump, I was happy that the procedure was so easy for me to DIY. I managed to replace mine in about 2 hours which included a couple of hoses and a radiator - all for a grand sum of 150 bucks! LOL. For those that think the LS is a mystical and complicated system, it really isn't and no witchcraft or incantations are required to work on it. Nor are the parts exotic. BTW, did you use a Lexus part or off shore, OEM equivelant? I used an Ebay part made in Thailand with a lifetime waranty (whatever that's worth), but after a year and 30k miles, all is good so far. Not bad for 55 bucks.
As for the water pump, I was happy that the procedure was so easy for me to DIY. I managed to replace mine in about 2 hours which included a couple of hoses and a radiator - all for a grand sum of 150 bucks! LOL. For those that think the LS is a mystical and complicated system, it really isn't and no witchcraft or incantations are required to work on it. Nor are the parts exotic. BTW, did you use a Lexus part or off shore, OEM equivelant? I used an Ebay part made in Thailand with a lifetime waranty (whatever that's worth), but after a year and 30k miles, all is good so far. Not bad for 55 bucks.
Last edited by roadfrog; 12-30-15 at 02:33 PM.
#30
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
What I cant wrap my head around is how can you get anything other than a dump and fill of 2.5 Qts for only $150. The fluid is about $10 each. A flush is at least 10 Qts. We used to use 12. Labor has to be at least 1 hour at a hundo or more. So techstream, factory trained mechanic, fancy building, free snacks, bottom line is 2.5 qts. Pretty much worthless. My Lexus dealer invoice from the last owner shows trans service within the last 15,000 miles. Highly skilled tech using state of the art equipment blah blah blah. Bottom line he or she either changed 2.5 qts or nothing because the fluid is way dirty. My ex 91 ls400 with 200k has spotless red fluid even after 30,000 miles between flushes.
I used a Aisin water pump. Ive heard they make them for oem applications. $85. Probably the same as the $50 ones. I also used a Gates belt and Gates thermostat. I left the hoses and radiator (me lazy) they looked real good. My 91 hoses were perfect and original at 200k. I did take great care as to not break off the rad nipple. And when I change my spark plugs someday I will be sure not to drop any bolts down the holes. Hopefully it will stop snowing and warm up so I can drive it some more. By the way Im only going to drive this car about 5,000 miles a year. My pool hall is 5 minutes away and our 4 Runner is our workhorse. I only keep my ML350 around because nobody in their right mind will pay anything reasonable for it with over 100k miles. Ive tried to sell it but nobody will touch it and banks wont loan much for a German car over 75,000 miles. Its all good I drove it 2,000 miles last year.
I used a Aisin water pump. Ive heard they make them for oem applications. $85. Probably the same as the $50 ones. I also used a Gates belt and Gates thermostat. I left the hoses and radiator (me lazy) they looked real good. My 91 hoses were perfect and original at 200k. I did take great care as to not break off the rad nipple. And when I change my spark plugs someday I will be sure not to drop any bolts down the holes. Hopefully it will stop snowing and warm up so I can drive it some more. By the way Im only going to drive this car about 5,000 miles a year. My pool hall is 5 minutes away and our 4 Runner is our workhorse. I only keep my ML350 around because nobody in their right mind will pay anything reasonable for it with over 100k miles. Ive tried to sell it but nobody will touch it and banks wont loan much for a German car over 75,000 miles. Its all good I drove it 2,000 miles last year.
Last edited by Kennyr44; 12-30-15 at 04:39 PM.