LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

Looking into getting a LS460l from 750li

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Old 11-02-15, 11:31 AM
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whytry
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Default Looking into getting a LS460l from 750li

Hey CL,

I have had a couple GS's in the past, then went to a 750li, and it has 160k miles on it and it is starting to act up a little. Always been in love with this body style LS, but haven't been able to pull the trigger since going through divorce. Now I know where my finances are and I can pull off getting a LS460l, but I am trying to get up to speed on the differences. From what I can tell I want to get one with the touring package, I want the bigger brakes and 19's and air. I also will prob add the data controller for the factory air that Ciity has on his LS600, love that it is easily installed and can talk to factory air system... I also like the darker wood, grey/black vs the reddish color. Since I am looking at like a 07-08, are there anything I should consider when I am shopping around? I'm basically wondering if there are certain things I should stay away from as it will be almost 8yrs old.... I've read alot on here already but I'm getting to 'overload' state with all the searches I've done anad posts I've printed out etc.

Any tips would be appreciated.

THX in advance...
Old 11-02-15, 12:08 PM
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superdenso
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The LS460 doesn't handle like a BMW but it should not cost you much to maintain. You will rarely visit the dealership or meet new mechanics due to the LS. There are a few soft spots and all cars don't have all concerns:

Glazed Brakes (presents as brake warp)
Control Arm bushings and ball joints
Transmission shift delays under quick acceleration (possibly due to fluid condition/or prior driver learned preference)

The list is short. Try to find one you like to look at and have it inspected. If a car presented with all concerns I would buy it.

Last edited by superdenso; 11-19-15 at 10:10 AM.
Old 11-02-15, 12:21 PM
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CRowe14
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Good day to you.

I would like to present a link on behalf of many of us here, as many have contributed in the thread.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...1st-ls460.html

I would advise that as a personal practice in pursuit of an LS, that you test drive as many respectable models as possible, to assure your understanding of what the LS is supposed to feel like and sound like when started, at idle, when being driven and when braking.
Take your time and I hope the link helps.
Many, many great informed people here.
Old 11-02-15, 12:34 PM
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Devh
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Please do a search here and you will find some of the minor concerns for this car.
I really don't like doing this but for the sake of challenging bad information, do your research on what issues are pervasive vs a couple of people asking questions.

1. There are some control arm issues that have been rectified on later builds but no ball joints problems.

2. There are some reported warped rotors that can be addressed with aftermarket and glazing has nothing to do with it. Not everyone has warped rotors. I don't.

3. Transmission are solid on this car. It's a little laid back as far as shifting aggressively but that is all. There is nothing to conclude any mechanical issues for the vast majority of owners.

There is a hearsay / some people that are posting bad or misleading information. Please do a search to come to sensible conclusions. Many owners here are happy with their purchase, welcome back.

Last edited by DaveGS4; 11-02-15 at 01:48 PM. Reason: check PM
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Old 11-02-15, 12:40 PM
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sktn77a
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In the short term, you are likely to be little disappointed with the LS relative to the 750. However, the car should end up being more reliable in the long term. I would caution you, however, that any repairs on the LS will be every bit as expensive as the 750 (control arm bushings - $4000-$5000, brake actuator - $2000-$3000, ML amp - $2000, etc). Be prepared for some of these repairs if you buy an 07-08.
Old 11-02-15, 12:43 PM
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NickTee
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Originally Posted by Devh
Please do a search here and you will find some of the minor concerns of this car.
I really don't like doing this but for the sake of challenging bad information please disregard the person who made the second post. The information is mostly wrong.

1. There are some control arm issues that have been rectified on later builds but no ball joints problems.

2. There are some reported warped rotors that can be addressed with aftermarket and glazing has nothing to do with it. Not everyone has warped rotors. I don't.

3. Transmission are sold on this car. It's a little laid back as far as shifting aggressively but that is all. There is nothing to conclude any mechanical issues for the vast majority of owners.

There is a lot of hearsay and people that are posting bad information. Please do a search to come to sensible conclusions. Many owners here are happy with their purchase.
His point is that there is a common misconception that pulsing brakes are caused by warping, when in fact it is caused by unequal deposits of braking material on the rotors. The sheer amount of heat required to warp a rotor isn't going to happen on a street car and you'd likely crack the rotors before you warped them.
Old 11-02-15, 12:53 PM
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7milesout
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Since you're recently divorced, one has to assume that you are now missing some excitement / drama in your life. Probably a good thing. If you sell the 7-Series and procure an LS, that's another step in the same direction.

My concern is that your life may become TOO boring. Not fighting with a woman, no fighting with a car. It's just too much change in your life all at one time.

I suggest you keep the 7 Series so you can hold on to some amount of excitement / drama in your life. An LS is too trouble-free and you might get bored not having to visit dealerships as frequently.

Be careful, this is a big step.


7milesout
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Old 11-02-15, 12:55 PM
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Devh
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Originally Posted by NickTee
His point is that there is a common misconception that pulsing brakes are caused by warping, when in fact it is caused by unequal deposits of braking material on the rotors. The sheer amount of heat required to warp a rotor isn't going to happen on a street car and you'd likely crack the rotors before you warped them.
If that were true it would happen regardless of what rotors you used. My other Toyota was notorious for rotor warpage that was due to the quality of the manufactures rotors produced that could have been due to a bad batch. This is quite common on other cars as well. The remedy was address with purchasing different rotors. Street pads rarely cause deposit formation to the extent where it pulses the brakes. Pulsing of the brakes are almost always due to a warped rotor and the temporary fix is having them turned.

I have glazed sport pads and rotors before and the feel is very different, one tell tail sign is pulling on one side. Usually re bedding the pads fixes the issue. Most street driven cars pulsing is due to warping of the rotor due to manufacturing quality and if your rotors don't have enough meat on them.

Last edited by Devh; 11-02-15 at 01:12 PM.
Old 11-02-15, 01:00 PM
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davedudu
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Originally Posted by NickTee
His point is that there is a common misconception that pulsing brakes are caused by warping, when in fact it is caused by unequal deposits of braking material on the rotors. The sheer amount of heat required to warp a rotor isn't going to happen on a street car and you'd likely crack the rotors before you warped them.
Amazing. So you're saying there is no such thing as warped rotors on a street car?
Old 11-02-15, 01:04 PM
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Devh
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Originally Posted by davedudu
Amazing. So you're saying there is no such thing as warped rotors on a street car?
Just adding to what you just said. Warped rotors are a very common occurrence. A cracked rotor is rare but it does happen especially on drilled rotors that are made from factory blanks. I have seen plenty of warped rotors and warped flywheels.
Old 11-02-15, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Devh
If that were true it would happen regardless of what rotors you used. My other Toyota was notorious for rotor warpage that was due to the quality of the manufactures rotors produced that could have been due to a bad batch. This is quite common on other cars as well. The remedy was address with purchasing different rotors. Street pads rarely cause deposit formation to the extent where it pulses the brakes. Pulsing of the brakes are almost always due to a warped rotor and the temporary fix is having them turned.

I have glazed sport pads and rotors before and the feel is very different, one tell tail sign is pulling on one side. Usually re bedding the pads fixes the issue. Most street driven cars pulsing is due to warping of the rotor due to manufacturing quality and if your rotors don't have enough meat on them.
I'm agreeing. Warped rotors are very common. I pulled the warped rotors off my LS and had them resurfaced. I stood there and watched as they were cut. The cutter tool is like an audible dial indicator. Heck, you could see it come off the rotor and not cut ... where it was warped. Which meant another pass (and maybe another 0.005") was made to remove some material to true them up. $10 a rotor. No biggie.


7milesout
Old 11-02-15, 01:36 PM
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Devh
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Originally Posted by 7milesout
I'm agreeing. Warped rotors are very common. I pulled the warped rotors off my LS and had them resurfaced. I stood there and watched as they were cut. The cutter tool is like an audible dial indicator. Heck, you could see it come off the rotor and not cut ... where it was warped. Which meant another pass (and maybe another 0.005") was made to remove some material to true them up. $10 a rotor. No biggie.


7milesout
That machine is pretty neat. I had the operator show me how it works when I brought them my flywheel. The cost was $15 and a cool conversation compared to a repair shop that charges $75-$100 that sends it to places like that anyway. The guy let me know how much they removed and it set a pattern on the surface to break in the clutch.

Last edited by Devh; 11-02-15 at 08:01 PM.
Old 11-02-15, 02:24 PM
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The LS 460 is a excellent automobile but the BMW 7-series handle and drives better. I suggest a thorough inspection at a Lexus dealer.
Old 11-02-15, 02:39 PM
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"handles and drives better"

That depends on what you're looking for. It handles better sure, but its a firmer, slightly louder, more connected feeling car. The LS is cushier, quieter...I personally prefer how the LS drives.

As for warped rotors, I've had 6 Lexus sedans, every one of them has had warped rotors at one point in its life, some of them it was a chronic problem. No issues with the 460 yet, but it only has 6500 miles on it. Toyota/Lexus rotors are prone to warpage.
Old 11-03-15, 11:10 AM
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whytry
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Originally Posted by 7milesout
Since you're recently divorced, one has to assume that you are now missing some excitement / drama in your life. Probably a good thing. If you sell the 7-Series and procure an LS, that's another step in the same direction.

My concern is that your life may become TOO boring. Not fighting with a woman, no fighting with a car. It's just too much change in your life all at one time.

I suggest you keep the 7 Series so you can hold on to some amount of excitement / drama in your life. An LS is too trouble-free and you might get bored not having to visit dealerships as frequently.

Be careful, this is a big step.


7milesout
hahaha!! I'm looking forward to not being at the dealership so often, when I had my GS's I was able to do almost everything to them with the help from this site. I'm building a 68 Camaro now in the garage, so I'm pretty much a DIY guy.. And from the amount of stuff I have read there is not a whole lot of things to worry about compared to my 750Li. I've had it for a cpl years, and it's a great car, but I have always loved the low maintenence of Lexus. And now I have 150k miles on the 7 and I'm starting to think some of the major issues will start showing up.

Thanks for all the tips so far, keep em coming!!


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