Devh

Dont do as I do, do as I say.

I only average 5k miles a year. The car just came out of factory warranty on February and I planed to extend the millage to 10k but I thought it would be best to change it at 5k this time to get a base line for the oil with an oil analysis. I want to accomplish three things.

1. How the oil holds up being in the pan for more then one year.
2. How my analysis compares to Roadfrogs and satiger so we have similar millage and can form a reliable trend.
3. I want to see if my car is harder on oil because it's primarily city driven compared to the other guys that drive mixture of highway or predominantly highway.

If it all checks out I will extend by doing 10k oil changes for this car. I perform extended drains for my other cars without worry and on the previous BMW I was doing them at 15k.

superdenso

@roadfrog: satiger says, "When asked, service personal told me Lexus/Toyota uses Pennzoil that comes in drums. It was reg 5w-30 if that matters. "
@doublebase: Ha!
@Devh (you got my attention): Are we talking spectrum or chemical analysis this time?

Doublebase

Wow, 5k miles a year? I do that in two months, which is why thus far I am loving these cars.

roadfrog

Roger that.... I see that now. I was referring to the OP.

FWIW, my Toyota delaer uses TGMO 0W20 in their drums. Looks like the dealers down in the US can use whatever they choose. I would have an issue with that. I would expect that when I take my Lexus in, that they are using genuine OEM fluids, filters and parts like they do here in Canada.

dal20402

This, especially with these cars. I'm not sure I've ever heard of a catastrophic failure of a 1UR-FSE (although I'm sure it's happened). The engines and transmissions in these cars are tough. Slightly heavier oil, changed on a proper schedule, is not going to kill them.

I can't bring myself to go to 10K OCI (and in any case I drive the LS little enough that my personal OCI is really 9 months, which will happen before 5000 miles) but I very much appreciate the rigor of the analysis in this thread.

Devh

Good points. One thing that is getting distorted from many of the arguments because of trolls is the heavier oil argument is being flipped now that it has shown that 0W-20 doesn't cause any damage to the engine.

It is the heavy oil proponents that have called foul on those that run thinner oils. Now it seems they are on the defense since these UOA are in complete contradiction.
I believe the thinner oils if formulated correctly can offer a higher potential for the additional benefit of reduced start up wear but that has yet to be proven.

superdenso

Be sure what you are looking at. There is a difference between spectrum and chemical analysis. If you don't know what spectrum analysis is or its limitations seek more knowledge.

lol@Devh the troll detector

7milesout

Troll detector! That's funny. I got a good chuckle out of that. I'll take it to a personal level for just a moment. I don't think Devh is a troll detector. But I don't think superdenso is trolling either. Just a conflict of opinion maybe, and being not face-to-face, not easy to understand the other person's (good) intentions.

dal - I quoted your line above because I too cannot bring myself to go 10k miles OCI. But in my case it's because the oil would be in the engine for like 2 years. At least at the current rate. My last oil change seems like was November last year. Will do another one fairly soon. At about 1 years timing. And that's 5,000 miles.

But I want to mention, if I racked up miles like Doublebase, I would run 10k OCI's no doubt. I think he said his miles are mostly highway miles. Which are generally easy miles on a car / engine. With 9.1 quarts of synthetic, it would be in there 10k miles and I would not have a concern about it.


7milesout

Devh

I don't mind being in a state of agree to disagree and I have with many of who I call friends here like yourself. However this is not the case at all. If it were then I would respond directly but when my statements are taken out of context, twisted and then a poorly done google searched reply's that is not understood by the poster to appear as if they know something when it's out in left field is trolling. The use of hashtags, need I say more.

I was followed and called out on other thread which I made a foolish mistake of feeding the troll. It will not be repeated because this is not a case of a misunderstanding to get to a better understanding though debate and I don't mind being wrong for the sake of a better understanding that is a benefit to me . This is a clear case of trolling and I'm not the only one that sees it for what it is and it's a waste of time. If others want to play with the troll that's great, maybe he will be nice to you but more often then not he needs to be in a state of conflict for the sake of conflict which I will not entertain.
I would rather debate someone far more knowledgeable that would put me in my place and ultimately respect them for what they given me.

Tec80

0W oils are still too thick on a cold start (cold=ambients below 50F). And since most engine wear occurs during startup, you really want the fastest oil pressure rise rate you can get - which means the thinnest cold viscosity - which is 0W. There is ZERO reason to use 5W oils, ever - in anything.

Helpful:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/

20 vs. 30 hot viscosity is a different discussion. Bearings run cooler at a given oil pressure with lower viscosity oils (due to higher mass flow rate/reduced residence time in the bearing clearance), but film thickness is lower, too. In very high-load applications, the thicker viscosity oil will make the bearings look better. But, in a lightly-loaded LS460 (where full power is used less then 10% of total engine running time), there is probably little to no difference in how the bearings will look over 250+k miles.

Devh

I agree 100% . The 0W is often confused with weight when in actuality the W stands for Winter. It also a representation of the flowability of oil at colder temps. Matching the viscosity with the clearances as well as the heat range as you mentioned is what is ideal. Thicker oils when losing viscosity under stress will then match up with the clearances which is ideal for racing or environments where the engine is stressed. An oil that has a high Viscosity Index like what is found in Toyota synthetic will remain stable in both cold and hot and will not come out of viscosity as much. This is one of the big ones when it comes to overall reduction of engine wear.

superdenso

Tec 80 Idk about this one: "But, in a lightly-loaded LS460 (where full power is used less then 10% of total engine running time)"

The car is 4000lbs+ and the recommendation is "don't change the trans fluid" which pushes another stress back on the motor. There are a few threads complaining about "kick-down" response and that action alone requires more than a 10% pedal travel or 38 horses.

Let me know what you think...

roadfrog

By whom? Certainly not here in Canada - or in any other country except the U.S. and that's likely due to marketing in your country.

superdenso

The query was made to the gentlemen from Illinois USA; a lovely state southeast of Winnipeg. Would you like to add a comment about the heavy duty task assigned to the 4.6 or were you simply providing additional data in the form of a question?

superdenso

An extended oil change interval might come under the "extreme load condition" mentioned in the owners manual. A conditional statement appears in both the 2007 and 2015 manual.

See Specifications §:
Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):
• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which
allows cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for
easier starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil
when the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one
with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at
high speeds, or under extreme load conditions