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Sometimes when I start the car I get multiple warnings on the display and the car will not shift out of Park unless the override button is used. The window switches are disabled and the turn signals won't operate.
The car has had the issue since I purchased it used with 12,000 miles on it. But it has become a lot more frequent in the last couple of months. It seems to happen more often after being parked in the hot sun.
The dealer has been useless as far as finding the problem. It does not throw or store any codes. It only happens occasionally and never at the dealership.
Usually I can restart the car after about 20 minutes or so and the problem has disappeared.
Really weird dealer can't figure it out, maybe try to call around couple other dealers to see if they have an idea. I had once something similar on a toyota where the brake light warning was flashing and i had to use the overdrive switch to shift gear. Turns out it was simply a defective stop light bulb that was causing all those issues. Another thing you might want to try is the carista app to see if it captures any error code you could further investigate.
Well, isn't that strange! My first thought would be a defective primary battery, or the connections to the battery.
Although very rare, batteries can have internal problems, often due to manufacturing defects, that cause strange things. They can also have sulfate deposits that cause intermittent problems and the frequency of those kinds of problems increase with battery age.
These strange battery problems can be exposed with elaborate testing, but the testing usually cost far more than a new battery. The best approach is to just replace the battery and see what happens.
Please let us know if replacing the battery doesn't fix the problem.
Here here! I 2nd that motion. A battery on the lower edge of performance sometimes is the root cause for strange warnings very similar to what your experiencing. The more "sophisticated" the computer systems get in modern cars, it seems the more important it is to supply that computer with the voltage a newer battery offers. I'm not an electrical guy, so it's not a simple thing for me to explain.
Recently my mother / father freaked out because their nearly brand new Ford Fusion just went dead. In the old days, a weak battery was apparent because it would turn the starter slow, or turn the starter a couple times and then a series of clicks could be heard. That was apparent. Nowadays, the ECU (quickly) inspects the battery condition when the 'Start' button is pressed. And if the ECU determines the battery is less than some threshold, it won't even signal the starter to turn over. That's what happened to my mother. The car started fine at home. She got to where she was going, and pushed the starter and NOTHING.
This failure is not what they suspected. The called me saying they think there is something SERIOUSLY wrong with the car. But a new battery and all was fine.
++1.
From mass reading on this LS forum and seeing those lights, its likely indicative of a failing/failed battery.
Good luck and let us know what you end up doing and the results!
Here here! I 2nd that motion. A battery on the lower edge of performance sometimes is the root cause for strange warnings very similar to what your experiencing. The more "sophisticated" the computer systems get in modern cars, it seems the more important it is to supply that computer with the voltage a newer battery offers. I'm not an electrical guy, so it's not a simple thing for me to explain.
Recently my mother / father freaked out because their nearly brand new Ford Fusion just went dead. In the old days, a weak battery was apparent because it would turn the starter slow, or turn the starter a couple times and then a series of clicks could be heard. That was apparent. Nowadays, the ECU (quickly) inspects the battery condition when the 'Start' button is pressed. And if the ECU determines the battery is less than some threshold, it won't even signal the starter to turn over. That's what happened to my mother. The car started fine at home. She got to where she was going, and pushed the starter and NOTHING.
This failure is not what they suspected. The called me saying they think there is something SERIOUSLY wrong with the car. But a new battery and all was fine.
In this particular case I think the that the car's system has determined that the battery's State Of Charge is not sufficient to reliably operate the parking brake motor and prevents the shifter from being moved out of Park for that reason.
i agree i had a weak battery and i once let the car die and i jump started it and seen those lights before, i even had the parking brake fuse pop on me from jumpstarting and after a new battery never seen those lights and warnings ever again.. cheapest route is to get a new battery and go from there..
Thanks for the ideas!
I'm heading out now to check that stuff out.
Interesting thoughts regarding the battery as I have had a few no starts. But have always been able to jumpstart it. The battery connections are awkward to see and inspect in this car. But I'm thinking that will be important to check.
Well it seems that you guys were right about my battery. I still have the original battery that came with the car. (I'm actually kind of impressed it has 'lasted' this long).
So I removed the battery. Cleaned the posts and the terminals thoroughly. Checked the electrolyte levels. Then put my battery tester on it.
It showed 12.64 VDC
Then I tested for CCA (cold cranking amps) using 550 CCA as the standard and as you can see in the pics it only has 359 CCA.
I also tested for CA (cranking amps) and got a result of 485 CA. So, unless I'm way off on how many CCA or CA the battery should have, it's bad. Based on age alone I realize it should be replaced.
I cleaned things up and put the battery back in the car until I can get a replacement
Any suggestions for a replacement? Wal-Mart and NAPA are the closest/most convenient sources for me.
In the past, I tried to get Panasonic battery for one of car (ES). Toyota dealership told me they could order directly from Japan at the cost of $700 + shipping and tax. I went with Diehard Platinum on two of my cars and have zero issues for the past 4 years or so. One of the car I park outside - during last winter it never fails to start with first cranking. Cost more than other brands but worth it IMO. With Sears coupons, price can be much lesser.
More importantly as jmcraney and 7milesout put, these modern cars (ECU and other units) have less tolerance to low current flow (amps) and intermittent burst of flow. I consider good battery as an insurance.
Bought my battery from a Canadian Auto parts chain similar to NAPA and Autozone. It's an AC Delco Professional that far exceeded CCA etc of the Panny it replaced. Paid just over a hundred on sale.
The dealer has been useless as far as finding the problem. It does not throw or store any codes. It only happens occasionally and never at the dealership.
I read your thread after the other guys had already told you to check the battery. That was going to be my suggestion as to the place to start.
It doesn't amaze me how little salespeople know about the car, but I am amazed how little a dealer's techs know about them.
I think their certification process should require reading the DIY sticky at the top of this forum, and for all the other models as well!
Dealers here are No better than you guys have . Sales guys no ***** about what they sell . and prices 10% to 20% more expensive than of which its being sold in USA ...
So, I put a new battery in on 8/11. No more problems until today. The car sat in the hot sun all day. I tested the new battery and got 694 CCA vs. the stated 700 CCA, 835 CA vs. the rated 1000 CA. I've got the battery on a charger. The new battery is an "EverMaxx" from Wal-Mart.
08-06-15, 07:17 PM
Intermittent warnings displayed, stuck in Park
