Doublebase

Just by looking at the pictures it looks like the strut might need to be removed, which from what I've heard is no big deal on this car. Once it's out you can either remove those brackets with the arms, or hopefully there will be enough room to get the arms out without removing the brackets. Either way it's not a big deal. The only thing I'd worry about is getting the arm off the steering knuckle - I usually would just hit the knuckle with a hammer and get it to distort just enough where the tapered stud would bounce right out, but the knuckle is aluminum. I'd still probably give it a couple taps to see if I could do it, otherwise I'd use a puller.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

As I recall we did not remove the bracket, just the arms. The brackets seems to be a sub attachment that is removable after the arms are removed.
Mike

Devh

I agree with our resident sponsor in regard to Superpro bushings as they are the better option.
I have them on my other car and they are better then Energy suspension or other known brands of bushings.
The fact that it has channels for the grease they provide is a big plus.

CRowe14

And that's exactly what it appears to be, a sub attachment to a portion of the body/frame.
Without the tire being removed, I cant tell how much room I'd have, but thus far, im thinking i'll be taking the "entire arm/bushing" replacement route, and if I do it myself, I wont have to worry as much about the ball joints.
A question though:
Its been addressed here..how would I go about suppressing the suspension to regular parking height and then installing the arms, so that you're/im not stuck with the front end of the car sitting higher than the rear? Or is this only an issue when all arms in the front are replaced?

R Z

This has been an interesting read. I haven't looked into the control arms yet, it may be time to have someone take a look. I too hear a clunk when I brake. However, the car drives smooth and straight. I'm no DIY'er, but I have a local shop here I trust to do any work on my 08. This thread may have prompted me to get my CA's reviewed anyway.

Good luck Crowe with yours. I look forward to reading which arms you choose and how the job goes.

CRowe14

Hey R Z!
Greatly appreciate your well wishes! I'll be making a decision soon and will definitely keep everyone updated regarding my decision.
I'd like to say this though, if I may.
The very first time I heard it was, well, like I stated in the original post, I was pulling out forward from a parking space, saw a car coming from my right and I hit the brakes immediately in an aggressive manner. That's when I heard the clunk/knock noise.
I don't hear it any other time.
I've read that some people hear/get the noise when braking and resuming after a stop light/stop sign. When Im approaching a red light/stop sign, its smooth with no clunk noise. The same when I accelerate from a dead stop. However, I don't slam the gas when I got to accelerate either. I try to drive easy in this car in residential/commercial areas.
But even with the clunk, and the verification that the uppers are bad (not terrible, just smaller tears from what I could see) the car is still smooth and quiet, steers very straight.
I should mention that since ive had the car, there is a very slight vibration at 60-70mh, and I had a Lexus tech ride with me and he said he could feel it, but in his opinion, it was nothing to worry about, as he felt it was the roads and not the car. I had gotten the wheels RFB a few months ago and he didn't recommend doing it again.
So something else i'll be paying attention to once this repair is complete, is how it drives in that speed range, and if the vibration disappears.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

Our upper bushings have not parasitic spring properties, so they will not hold tension like an OE rubber bushing. The center tube freely rotates so there is not preload. Is that what you were asking?
Mike

CRowe14

That's exactly what im referring to.
I don't know from experience, only from reading, that some others have stated that even when Lexus has done the repair, that once the owner gets the car back, it appears as though the front end is a bit "Jacked up". As if the car had air suspension (even if it does not) and the system was at capacity.
Some have said over time it goes down, others have said over time it does not. But my understanding is that if the suspension height isn't accounted for, then the bushing will wear prematurely.

CRowe14

So, what I ended up doing, well, one of the things I did , along with researching control arm options: aftermarket and repair facilities, was contact Lexus Corporate. I felt even though the car is 8 years old, the mileage was quite low.
In conjunction with that, I specifically noted that it is clearly documented that control arms are an issue with the earlier years of the LS, and that was understood by Lexus, as they revised the control arms somewhere between '09-'12 models.
I went on to mention that the car has been very well cared for, the owner before me bought it as a CPO, and I have, in my short ownership period, have made my best efforts to take care of this car.
I concluded, in a very polite and respectful manner, with asking any assistance they deemed acceptable, regarding my repair.
I composed and submitted my letter on Sunday afternoon.
I received a call from a representative at Lexus Corporate yesterday, July 15th and was informed that I would hear something back this Friday.
I just received a phone from my SA at the shop who diagnosed the issue, and he told me that Lexus will take care of the control arms, but I would have to pay for labor.
Now, labor is still on the steep end, at over $800.
To be quite honest, if I go the aftermarket route, for example, if I go with the FIGGS arms/bushings, that's $385, then lets say about $300-$450 in labor, plus an alignment, I'm guessing about $70 on the high end, that puts me at $755-$905 for everything.
I haven't exactly ruled out the DIY route, as this will pose to be the most financially efficient route: $455.
Once again...let me know what you guys think!
I think this thread is much different than any other thread thus far regarding control arms, due to the input, mention of brand(s), mention of DIY methodology and the approach I have taken.
Aside from the fact that this repair will be completed one way or another, I'd like to point out that Lexus did not have to offer this olive branch. Its a great gesture, and a greatly appreciated one.
Now I need to figure out which route to take, and also consider the overall health of the lower control arms.
Ok everyone...
Fire away!

Devh

Pay for the labor. That is a great deal for revised factory arms.

R Z

That is great news. Really proud of you for going for the corporate brass. They apparently know this is a problem. Lexus does care for their owners. I think you've been given a nice gift. Consider it strongly.

tq745

Good job! Maybe I should write a letter to corporate regarding control arm as well. Does anyone have experience with the FIGGS arms/bushings as I'm strongly considering going that route.

Doublebase

Crowe, you ever just consider not replacing them - at least not yet - you said your ride is smooth and aside from a clunk during extreme braking, you don't really have any other symptoms. It's not like your ride quality or safety is at stake. I'll tell you right now that there are millions of questionable control arms driving up and down highways across America right now. I think I'm having the same "problem" you are having right now - my car on occasion will "clunk" during heavy braking in a parking lot, etc. and I do get an ever so slightly shimmy at 65 mph, but my control arms aren't exactly loose. I have checked them...there are the usual few cracks you see on any control arm bushings, but I put a bar against them and checked for looseness/safety concerns and they're fine.

It's something I can live with until it gets worse - it's not a problem in my book.

swfla

iTrader: (1)

I've got similar symptoms on my 2010. It's got 3 years CPO coverage minus the 2 months I've had it. I'd need to drive 100 miles one way to get it done, get a loaner, drive home and back again the next day. That's IF Lexus thinks they're bad enough to replace. So, I'm waiting it out until I have more pronounced symptoms and am certain that they'll approve the repair. Most all my driving is local up to 50 mph, I don't feel I'm at risk for a crash or collateral damages. Part of me is still whispering "but it isn't perfect, it could be better" I'm trying to ignore that.

Doublebase

Yeah, I hear what you're saying. I think it's fine if you wait, I imagine most people wouldn't even notice the noise/problem. Take my wife for example, she doesn't realize there's a problem with her car until I can hear it while she's driving up our street (while I'm in the yard). One day I noticed a grinding noise so loud that I literally heard her from a half a mile away (that's how long our street is). She had gone metal to metal on the brakes - it was so bad that the rotor metal was flying off and getting imbedded into her rims...where they rusted and turned the aluminum brown. No big deal to her.