roadfrog

You'll never go wrong with Bando or Gates.

CRowe14

I had some down time this afternoon and took the engine covers off...wow! Dirty!
I also decided to remove the air intakes and see if I could figure out where the water pump is.
I'm having a hard time, so I figured I'd take a photo and place it here and get some assistance from one or two of you guys **clears throat rather loudly** Roadfrog!
I noticed and you'll be able to notice in the photo, that there appears to be dried up pink residue in the compartment of the drive belts. I assume this means there is a leak. Where exactly is the water pump?

roadfrog

LOL. Yep, there's your indicator....dried pink crystallyzed coolant.

The water pump is the unit at the top with the four bolts.

hfahmy

Agree, water pump is shot. I have seen this before.

CRowe14

Ok, this is what I have thus far, in regards to items I need to purchase.

The water pump:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Water-Pump-W-Gasket-for-Toyota-Lexus-4-6L-5-0L-P1046-/171652702085?fits=Model%3ALS460&hash=item27f74c5f85&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-53200-19255-0%252F1%253Ftype%253D3%2526campId%253D5336108637%2526toolId%253D10001%2526customId%253Di9us05qm86000azq00004%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fitm%25252FNew-Water-Pump-W-Gasket-for-Toyota-Lexus-4-6L-5-0L-P1046-%25252F171652702085%25253Ffits%25253DModel%2525253ALS460%252526hash%25253Ditem27f74c5f85%252526vxp%25253Dmtr%2526srcrot%253D711-53200-19255-0%2526rvr_id%253D832900903776
Bando Drive belt;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bando-Accessory-Drive-Serpentine-Belt-6PK2100B-/291454671715?fits=Year%3A2007%7CMake%3ALexus%7CModel%3ALS460&hash=item43dc0d5b63&vxp=mtr
I saw that Roadfrog mentioned the replacement of hoses but im not sure which ones. The large hose under my hood seems to be in great condition. Is there something I should be looking at/for? And how important is it that I replace the drive belt?
I know this may seem easy for some, but im asking as many questions as possible so I go in pretty informed.
As far as draining the fluid, is from the basin enough or from the radiator? Im guessing both. Where would the drain hose be on the radiator?
The belt: Pry off with a tool or pull it off by hand?
Moving dip stick tube aside? You mean that piece/unit that its attached to?
The coolant: Did you order that online or purchase from Toyota?
Any other information, please feel free to include.
Now it looks like I will have an oil change as well as a water pump to change out!
Thanks for the help!

roadfrog

No fear in asking too many questions. That's what CL is all about. You can do this!

Hoses can always "look" good on the outside, but it's the inside you can't see. It's your call. Rubber wears out. I replaced the upper and lower hoses. They were almost 8 years old and had 80k miles. Since I already had the coolant drained, it was good preventative maintenance.

As for the drivebelt, I really would replace it. It's extremely simple to replace and it will slip, or break at some point, leaving you completely stranded if it does. It can also cause collateral damage if it snaps. All you need to do is place a socket on the idler pulley and turn it to loosen the pulley and replace the belt. Since you have to replace the water pump, the belt will be off anyway, so replacing it with a new one is a no-brainer.

The drain **** is at the bottom of the rad. Drain the fluid from the reservoir tank as well. This will not remove ALL of the fluid from the system, but it replace most of it, especially since you'll be removing the water pump and any fluid from that area of that engine. There are drain ***** on either side of the block, but they are very hard to get at, so I let them be.

The dipstick tube has a mounting flange and is bolted in place to the engine bay. Just remove the bolt and move the dipstick tube aside to gain access to the area of the water pump.

Bought it from my Toyota dealer. Price was reasonable and only about a dollar a jug more than an off brand from Walmart. It will likely be already diluted, so don't add water. It will say on the jug.

Do you have the specs for torque sequence and torque spec for all the mounting bolts on the water pump? If not, there are plenty of diagrams on the net. Just Google, " LS460 water pump torque sequence" and then click "images".

Too bad you don't live closer, I'd come give you a hand!

If you have any other questions, ask away!

roadfrog

Here ya go pal....



Bolt A 15 ft-lb
Bolt B 17 ft-lb
Bolt C 35 ft-lb

CRowe14

Man..I cant thank you enough for all of this information...you said to ask away...so I will LOL!!!

Hoses: I will replace them since i'll be there and it just makes sense, as mine are 8 years old, 67k.
How many hoses are there? I can look but I don't wish to miss any. I imagine the covers on the bottom will have to be removed in order to access the hoses on the bottom? Where did you get your hoses?

Drive belt: I will replace this as well for the same reasons as the hoses, however, my radiator was replaced in November by the dealer bc during an inspection, a nipple was broken by a tech, so they had to replace the rad and put in new fluid. Perhaps ill call the dealership and see if the put on new hoses and drive belt..OR should I still replace the belt anyways due to the possibility that coolant got onto it? If I end up replacing it, if I understand you correctly, loosening the tensioner pulley will enable the belt to come off?

Dipstick (Im assuming the oil dipstick tube which is attached to another unit off to the left of the water pump area) placement: Gotcha!

Adding fluid/purging:
Once the repair is complete and I add fluid, do I put any in the rad itself AND the coolant basin, or just the basin? Also, what is the purging process to assure there aren't any air bubbles?

Wish I was closer, as I could always use a hand.
Just have to tell my wife to give me some quiet time and keep my daughter occupied while I do this, as I hate being distracted while working!!

And for the diagram, thanks a great deal bud!! Gotta buy a torque socket!

roadfrog

There's an upper rad hose and a lower rad hose. I purchased both on Ebay. Both were Gates branded and are good quality. I think I paid about 18 bucks for both.

Couldn't hurt to ask them. If they did replace any of the items, I'd skip replacing them, even if they did get coolant on them. Oil is what's harmful to rubber, so no worries there. To remove the belt, you simply place an appropriate sized wrench or socket on the tensioner pulley bolt and turn anti-clockwise to release the tension and remove the belt:



Indeed. The bolt is attached to the thermostat housing. Can't miss it.

There's a bleed screw on top of the upper rad hose. The procedure for bleeding is thus:

NOTE: before adding coolant, turn the A/C switch OFF.

(a) Remove the vent screw on the upper rad hose.

(b) Tighten the radiator drain **** plug.

(c) Add coolant into the radiator reservoir until it reaches the "FULL" line on the reservoir

(d) Squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses several times by hand, and then check the coolant level.
If the coolant level is low, add coolant.

(e) Re-install the vent plug and tighten to 13 in/lbs (NOT ft lbs - INCH/LBS!)

(f) While idling the engine for approximately 10 minutes, make sure the coolant remains at the FULL line by adding coolant as necessary.

(g) After idling the engine for 10 minutes, add coolant until it reaches the B line at the base of the reservoir's filler neck as seen here:



(h) Close the radiator reservoir cap, and run the engine at 1500 to 2000 rpm for 5 minutes.

(i) Stop the engine and wait until the coolant cools down to ambient temperature.

(j) ) Check the coolant level. If the coolant level is below the FULL line, add coolant until it reaches the FULL line.

That's pretty much it. Couple of things:
1. As your dealer and several of us here at CL have found out the hard way, the upper nipple that the reservoir hoses attaches to on the rad, is easy to break. It's plastic. Be VERY careful around that area. All I did was lean on it and it snapped, necessitating a rad replacement.

2. As for torque wrenches, they are easily obtained at Home Depot, Lowes, and even Harbor Freight. HF will likely be the least expensive option.

Tec80

Depending on mileage, I'd replace the belt tensioner while you are in there. If 70k-up, it is a good idea to replace it now.

CRowe14

I cant thank you enough good Sir!!
I just spoke with the dealership that did the repair back in Nov '14, and she said that the following was replaced:

(1) Radiator
Coolant Flush
(1) Drive Belt
(1) Hose replaced: Said it was the top hose.

So from the sounds of it, I should purchase a bottom rad hose, coolant and the pump.
I'm headed to the local Harbor Freight and will pick up coolant on lunch.
Thanks again!

Tec80: Would this be the same thing as a tensioner pulley?

roadfrog

Yes, the tensioner pulley is what he's referring to. Also, I assume you meant torque wrench when referring to Harbor Freight. Get your coolant from Toyota.

CRowe14

Lol...my fault for vague communication!
Yes, HF for the wrench and Toyota for the fluid.
Is there a certain brand I should be searching for in regards to the pulley? And what's a good price?

Devh

If it were me I would stick with a genuine Toyota tensioner . There have been reports from other Toyotas in the past that had issues with the aftermarket.

roadfrog

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-OEM-1660438020-Idler-Pulley-Drive-Belt-Idler-Pulley-16604-38020-/111619047240?fits=Model%3ALS460&hash=item19fd037f48&vxp=mtr