LS460 Brake job DIY: Pt. 1
12-08-15, 07:13 PM
#46
Sorry guys, couple more questions:
How much brake fluid should I remove with the turkey baster? And do I save that fluid to pour back in the reservoir or replace with fresh fluid? I'm imagining I'd be putting fresh fluid back in. I can shoot over to Toyota and pick some up if need be.
When I do my front brakes, I will need to turn the wheel to access the caliber screws? Will I need to people for this or can it be done solo? I use the parking brake when doing the front brakes but not when doing the rear brakes right?
How much brake fluid should I remove with the turkey baster? And do I save that fluid to pour back in the reservoir or replace with fresh fluid? I'm imagining I'd be putting fresh fluid back in. I can shoot over to Toyota and pick some up if need be.
When I do my front brakes, I will need to turn the wheel to access the caliber screws? Will I need to people for this or can it be done solo? I use the parking brake when doing the front brakes but not when doing the rear brakes right?
12-08-15, 10:24 PM
#47
Lexus Fanatic
Sorry guys, couple more questions:
How much brake fluid should I remove with the turkey baster? And do I save that fluid to pour back in the reservoir or replace with fresh fluid? I'm imagining I'd be putting fresh fluid back in. I can shoot over to Toyota and pick some up if need be.
When I do my front brakes, I will need to turn the wheel to access the caliber screws? Will I need to people for this or can it be done solo? I use the parking brake when doing the front brakes but not when doing the rear brakes right?
How much brake fluid should I remove with the turkey baster? And do I save that fluid to pour back in the reservoir or replace with fresh fluid? I'm imagining I'd be putting fresh fluid back in. I can shoot over to Toyota and pick some up if need be.
When I do my front brakes, I will need to turn the wheel to access the caliber screws? Will I need to people for this or can it be done solo? I use the parking brake when doing the front brakes but not when doing the rear brakes right?
12-10-15, 11:55 AM
#48
So I've got the pads out and I sprayed some liquid wrench on the caliper bolts and waiting for them to loosen up a bit.
Quick question regarding what exactly I transfer ove rto the new pads. Please take a look at my pic. There seem to be 2 shims on the old pads, do I just transfer the top shim? And there is a little spring wire on the old pads, do I transfer that to the new pads?
Quick question regarding what exactly I transfer ove rto the new pads. Please take a look at my pic. There seem to be 2 shims on the old pads, do I just transfer the top shim? And there is a little spring wire on the old pads, do I transfer that to the new pads?
12-10-15, 12:37 PM
#51
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
The shims and springs need to be transferred to the new pad. Also lube the back of the pad, both shims where they will touch each other and the back of the shims that come into contact with the pistons. Lube everything that moves as Doublebase stated.
Also, for the fronts, I actually turned the wheel all the way to the side that I was working on to have as much access to the caliper bolts as possible.
I ended up having to have my wife hold the wheel once the car was off bc the steering wheel would drift.
Again, for me in the fronts, I used the handle from my hydraulic jack as a breaker bar and they came loose pretty quick.
Allow the spray to set in a bit and try to get something that will grant you a bit more leverage.
I know your probably frustrated as hell! But you'll get'em off..
Also, for the fronts, I actually turned the wheel all the way to the side that I was working on to have as much access to the caliper bolts as possible.
I ended up having to have my wife hold the wheel once the car was off bc the steering wheel would drift.
Again, for me in the fronts, I used the handle from my hydraulic jack as a breaker bar and they came loose pretty quick.
Allow the spray to set in a bit and try to get something that will grant you a bit more leverage.
I know your probably frustrated as hell! But you'll get'em off..
12-10-15, 01:33 PM
#52
I rode my bike down to auto zone and grabbed an impact wrench...money well spent.
So I put the new rotor on and when I spin the wheel, there is a metal on metal grinding sound. I took the following pic. Doesn't sound normal, what am I doing wrong? It's as if the rotor is too thick and it's rubbing against something. this is the driver's side front that I'm doing.
The rotor is hitting that metal guard to the right of the rotor in the pic. These are centric rotors and as far as I know the left front is Centric 120.44150 and the right is 120.44151.
So I put the new rotor on and when I spin the wheel, there is a metal on metal grinding sound. I took the following pic. Doesn't sound normal, what am I doing wrong? It's as if the rotor is too thick and it's rubbing against something. this is the driver's side front that I'm doing.
The rotor is hitting that metal guard to the right of the rotor in the pic. These are centric rotors and as far as I know the left front is Centric 120.44150 and the right is 120.44151.
12-10-15, 01:41 PM
#54
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I rode my bike down to auto zone and grabbed an impact wrench...money well spent.
So I put the new rotor on and when I spin the wheel, there is a metal on metal grinding sound. I took the following pic. Doesn't sound normal, what am I doing wrong? It's as if the rotor is too thick and it's rubbing against something. this is the driver's side front that I'm doing.
The rotor is hitting that metal guard to the right of the rotor in the pic. These are centric rotors and as far as I know the left front is Centric 120.44150 and the right is 120.44151.
So I put the new rotor on and when I spin the wheel, there is a metal on metal grinding sound. I took the following pic. Doesn't sound normal, what am I doing wrong? It's as if the rotor is too thick and it's rubbing against something. this is the driver's side front that I'm doing.
The rotor is hitting that metal guard to the right of the rotor in the pic. These are centric rotors and as far as I know the left front is Centric 120.44150 and the right is 120.44151.
Im at work and cant see the pic (its blocked), i'll have to look on my phone in a few...
Did you make sure you cleaned off the hub with a wire brush, so that when the surface of the hub meets the back end surface of the rotor, its flush without any rust deposits?
Also, some do this, some don't, but once its cleaned very well, you can apply some lube to the hub face so the rotor wont rust-adhere to the hub over time and removal will be easier in t he future...
12-10-15, 02:01 PM
#55
Yes, cleaned the hub. But now it appears the new front rotors I bought are too big diameter for the caliper to fit over them...by 1/2" or so. Frustration level is setting in. I've got to pick my kids up from school in 1.5 hours so the old brakes are going back on the car.
The part numbers look to be correct but the rotor is clearly too big vs. the old rotor.
The part numbers look to be correct but the rotor is clearly too big vs. the old rotor.
12-10-15, 02:17 PM
#57
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Aww man, really??
That's really sucks!
I guess it is possible they sent you the wrong size.
I wonder if they gave you Touring rotors?
Its no conciliation, but at least you are aware of how to take everything off, and I don't imagine returning the hardware for the correct size will be difficult.
But I understand the frustration of wanting to have it done once you've taken everything apart.
Hate to hear that...but it'll get done!
That's really sucks!
I guess it is possible they sent you the wrong size.
I wonder if they gave you Touring rotors?
Its no conciliation, but at least you are aware of how to take everything off, and I don't imagine returning the hardware for the correct size will be difficult.
But I understand the frustration of wanting to have it done once you've taken everything apart.
Hate to hear that...but it'll get done!
12-10-15, 02:30 PM
#58
When I resurfaced my front rotors, I didn't lube squat. Turned 'em, slapped em back on, that was it. But I didn't put pads in either. They're so much better now.
I recommend using lubricant sparingly, and also read my post somewhere back about how to remove the rotors without hammering them. Even though you may be discarding your current rotors, my suggesting to thread-in bolts is easier than banging on the rotors to remove them.
7milesout
I recommend using lubricant sparingly, and also read my post somewhere back about how to remove the rotors without hammering them. Even though you may be discarding your current rotors, my suggesting to thread-in bolts is easier than banging on the rotors to remove them.
7milesout
12-10-15, 02:50 PM
#59
My old rotors were loose once the caliper came off. BTW, investing $60 in an impact wrench was the best money I've spent in a while. Broke the caliper screws loose in seconds and I'm sure I'll find several other uses for it.
Super bummed about today. The good thing was that I now know how to remove everything and put it back together. Bad thing is the rotors are off by a long shot. I bought everything via amazon though all 4 rotors shipped from different suppliers. What a pain?!
The rotors are clearly the wrong size. I input my car info into amazon and it popped up with those rotors.
Super bummed about today. The good thing was that I now know how to remove everything and put it back together. Bad thing is the rotors are off by a long shot. I bought everything via amazon though all 4 rotors shipped from different suppliers. What a pain?!
The rotors are clearly the wrong size. I input my car info into amazon and it popped up with those rotors.