sdwtchlvr

iTrader: (1)

I've got 4 new Centric rotos and new Akebono brake pads ready to go on. I was calling around to various local shops to get pricing and got quotes from $200-$400 to install all 4 rotors and pads.

I'd like to see about giving this a go myself as it seems pretty straight forward but I really don't have a bunch of time to trouble shoot if things go wrong or I run into an issue.

I've got a couple of questions:

-Disconnecting the battery isn't necessary I'm gathering?

-It is recommended to unscrew the brake reservoir cap but opening the brake bleeding screws isn't necessary and can cause more harm than good?

-Is there a photo or video of what exactly it looks like to slowly clamp the caliber pistons down? I've found a few youtubes on other Lexus models, but not on the LS460? This seems to be the most mysterious part of the job for me.

-I don't own an impact drill, will I be ok with a socket wrench to remove the caliber bolts? Should I apply a little liquid wrench before hand?

-I should definitely plan on cleaning the hub with a wire brunch? Should I test for rotor run out after installing rotors? Is there a tool for that?

Lastly, is $200 a bad price to pay to just have the work done? I know most of us are DYI and I certainly want to give it a go but I don't have a ton of spare time and if I run into a hiccup, I can't afford to be without my car.

Thanks guys!

roadfrog

You can do this!

No need to disconnect the battery.

DO NOT disconnect the brake lines nor bleed anything. Just remove a bit of brake fluid with a turkey baster. BUT be careful, around paintwork....brake fluid is a very good paint remover!

For the caliper bolts, I always spray a little PB Blaster (or other spray lubricant) an hour or so before tackling the removal. You do NOT need an impact wrench. A breaker bar would be handy however.

200 bucks is reasonable for this job, but the value of the satisfaction of a DIY job well done, is ten-fold.

To depress the piston, a clamp is all that's required. I usually use the old brake pad to help with the compressing of the piston and also protects it.

Look at it this way, if you find that you can't tackle it half-way through the job, you can always have the vehicle towed to your local shop to finish the job. However, I really do think you'll be fine! There is no sorcery or witchcraft involved with this job. It's as straightforward a brake job as any. It wouldn't hurt to take some pics before removal of brake springs, etc. And remember, we're always here to help at CL.

sdwtchlvr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I plan to do the front one day and the back perhaps the next day. So I won't feel pressure to complete all 4 at once.

Regarding clamping the caliper piston, is this something that is done once the pads are removed from the caliber or do I need to do it while the caliper is still on the car? Are there any pics or videos that show best what I should expect on the LS? I've seen you tubes of guys compressing the piston while the caliber is on the car and then guys doing it when the caliber is off the car.

CRowe14

First, I absolutely, 100% agree with Chris.
You can do this job and you'll feel excellent once its complete.
Definitely take a few pics of the orientation of the springs and clips on the calipers.
Not rocket science, but its important to install them the way that they were meant to be, or you'll get rattles/noises.
This is what you encounter:
When you remove the wheel, you'll see the caliper and the top tab area of the brake pads.
Remove all of the hardware from the pads first (clips, springs and pad pins), and all you should have is the pads inside the caliper, with the caliper still mounted on the arm assembly (over the rotor).
Take your C-clamp, open it wide and place the top, non-movable part of the clamp behind the brake pad tab, closest to you (outer pad). I then used an old rag between the surface of the moving/adjustable part of the c-clamp (the bottom) and the face of the caliper, as not to scratch up the caliper, and tightened the clamp until it was snug.
At this point, you will have the top of the clamp against the back of the brake pad tab, and the bottom of the clamp (the adjustable side) against the outer, front face of the caliper.
Slowly adjust the clamp to close and that will apply enough pressure so that the brake pad will force the pistons within the caliper to compress and the pad will pull away from the rotor, giving you enough room to undo/loosen the c-clamp, and slide the brake pad out.
Once the front pad is removed, the rear pad should come out quite easily.
Just wiggle it back and forth while pulling away from the caliper, and it should slide out.
I just looked through my phone to see if I had any photos but I erased them all.
But believe me, I think that you will be just fine, and as RF said, we are all here to help!
Keep us posted!

CRowe14

Oh, I forgot to add...
You'll probably have done this already, but for good measure...
Before you do any compression of the caliper pistons, be sure to have removed a little of the brake fluid and have the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir as to not place any backed-up pressure in the brake lines.

sdwtchlvr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the details guys. I'm gonna give it a go on Thursday morning. Any recommendations for brake cleaner to clean the new rotors with and brake grease to lube up the hub surface and back of pads/shims? Or will just the standard stuff do from Autozone?

CRowe14

I'm sure you'll do fine with it.
I just used the AutoZone brand brake cleaner with a old mf cloth.
Did great with cleaning/removing grease/oils.
As far as the grease, I used what came with my pads, but I believe any lube intended for pads will be good.
RF, Devh and/or Doublebase would be great guys to ask.
Remember to lube the shims AND the break pad pins!

sdwtchlvr

iTrader: (1)

And will I need to complete some sort of bedding procedures with this set up?

Doublebase

This is probably the best stuff you can buy, it's a little pricey ($15-$16 bucks), but it's the best.
I'd put this stuff on the pins, back of the pads, where the pads could scrape against the caliper...everywhere where there is movement.

sdwtchlvr

iTrader: (1)

Saw that stuff on Amazon. Great reviews.

roadfrog

Meh.......I never bother,

superdenso

Nice...I use Bendix Ceramlub, but the Permatex looks good.
http://www.techshopmag.com/bendix-ce...-temperatures/

roadfrog

Usually when I buy replacement pads, they come with the lube in a small celo packet.

Doublebase

Never heard of it, but the I'm sure it's good stuff. I've used CRC synthetic brake grease in the past and that was fine too.

sdwtchlvr

iTrader: (1)

I haven't checked my Akebono pads case yet to see if they included any grease but I'll probably just pick some up any how, a small tube.

So bedding the pads isn't necessary? I've seen some posts saying it's necessary, other saying it's not. I drive very conservatively, don't speed, don't brake hard or ride my brakes. But I don't know if driving style has any part to play in longevity of brakes?