7milesout

I searched and saw no threads about rotor resurfacing. This Sunday (3/15) I took my front rotors to O'Reilly's and had the rotors resurfaced. $10 each rotor.

I was getting the pulse from the day I brought it home. Now it's as smooth as butter. I know what you're going to say ... now that they're turned they'll warp that much sooner. And I know that's true. But for $20 total, I thought WTH? I wanted to point out a couple things.

Aside from the lug nuts, there are ONLY 2 BOLTS that need to be removed. The rotors didn't want to fall right off, so I took a couple small bolts off my Mighty Corolla, and threaded into the rotor hat and, PING, right off the rotors came. This job couldn't have been much simpler. It's a helluva car, that can be so complex, and yet still servicable. My buddy's M5, he said it was way more complex to get his rotors off!

Also, I didn't mess with the brake pads. Before anybody flips out, I've been an engineer in automotive for a long time. The car has just as much braking power as before. And I don't give a rip what the unchanged pads may do to the new resurfacing. When I buy new rotors, I'll buy new pads!

Anywho - I'm loving this car. I sent an email to Lexus whining about not having access to Enform and all the related c--p. I told them, "how do I know I would like the stuff unless I could try it?" So they gave me 3 free months. I doubt I will keep it, but it may be fun to play with for a while.


7milesout

Doublebase

Good for you, sounds like you did the right thing. Sometimes I have luck when I cut rotors...sometimes I don't, but for ten bucks a piece, how can you go wrong? And if you have a lot of life left in your pads you should be fine.
Something I've done - when reusing pads - is a take them outside, pour some water on the pavement, then work the pads into the pavement for a bit. It kind of scuffs them up a bit so they'll bite into the refinished rotor a little better.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Wow, I guess you know what the Stealer charges to turn both front rotors...........

CRowe14

Hey 7,

Im looking to do a brake job myself this afternoon, if in fact the parts are there when I get home. I had a quick question however...
I know you didn't change out the pads and just resurfaced the rotors, but im replacing all 4 rotors and new pads all around. I watched a video on youtube where a guy performed an example of pad/rotor repair on a 430, and when he removed the rotor, he hit the hub with a sander and placed grease on the hub before placing the new rotor on the hub. Did you perform this step?
Also, whats the best grease/lubricant I should use to place on the shims?
Thanks a bunch to you and/or anyone that may chime in!

7milesout

No I did not. And I cannot see the necessity. Maybe he did it so the rotor will come off easy the next time. But if that's the case, Toyota has that problem figured out with no need for grease.
Again, I didn't touch the shims, what I did had no involvement with grease. And I really don't know much about chemicals / materials. I used safety wire and a twisting pair of pliers to tie my calipers back up out of the way, and didn't touch them otherwise.

I'll be honest, I am not aware of there being grease involved with the shims (if the shims are what I believe you are referring to). I think of the shims as preventing caliper noise, and potentially providing a bearing surface of the caliper piston to the brake pad(s). Maybe there is grease involved, but I didn't disassemble them, so I don't know.

The only place that I'm *aware of that has grease (related to the brakes) is there are some bolts (sometimes it's a rod) that fix the position of the pads inside the calipers. Due to rotor runout (meaning slight warp to considerable warp) those pads need to be able to displace side-to-side ... in the same direction as the caliper piston. Those bolts or rods have grease in them to allow them and the pads to float side-to-side. This side-to-side motion of the pads is what is translated into the caliper piston, which in turn displaces brake fluid, and leads to the feeling one may feel in the brake pedal.

I wouldn't want to tackle pad replacement unless I saw some good instructions somewhere.


7milesout

is150

iTrader: (10)

After taking the rotor off it is good practice to clean the hub with a wire brush or piece of sandpaper. This helps clean the surface of any rust which could prevent the rotor to sit flush.

I've always put anti squeal grease on the brake shims, back and sides of pads. Basically any place the back of the pads come into contact with the caliper.

roadfrog

Brake grease should be used as is150 mentioned. Most brake pad replacement sets come with a squeeze pack of it. I have a tube of it and use it for the caliper pins, shims, and anywhere the pads slide on metal to metal (guides).