Control arms and bushings...
12-25-14, 02:54 PM
#16
Don460:
I'm in the process of ordering the front shocks for my 07-ls460l and read the service manual on the procedure for removing the strut. While it is not that complicated it is very laborious.I noticed that your thread stated that the removal of the strut was easily done by"....... unbolting the top and bottom and it comes out in one piece".Can the struts be removed that easily if you put the car on ramps,but don't remove any of the other suspension components?
I'm in the process of ordering the front shocks for my 07-ls460l and read the service manual on the procedure for removing the strut. While it is not that complicated it is very laborious.I noticed that your thread stated that the removal of the strut was easily done by"....... unbolting the top and bottom and it comes out in one piece".Can the struts be removed that easily if you put the car on ramps,but don't remove any of the other suspension components?
12-25-14, 04:27 PM
#17
Don460:
I'm in the process of ordering the front shocks for my 07-ls460l and read the service manual on the procedure for removing the strut. While it is not that complicated it is very laborious.I noticed that your thread stated that the removal of the strut was easily done by"....... unbolting the top and bottom and it comes out in one piece".Can the struts be removed that easily if you put the car on ramps,but don't remove any of the other suspension components?
I'm in the process of ordering the front shocks for my 07-ls460l and read the service manual on the procedure for removing the strut. While it is not that complicated it is very laborious.I noticed that your thread stated that the removal of the strut was easily done by"....... unbolting the top and bottom and it comes out in one piece".Can the struts be removed that easily if you put the car on ramps,but don't remove any of the other suspension components?
If however you are replacing the struts cartridges as most people do then you will need a spring compressor. I would have this work done by a shop then using the cheap auto part compressors. If you are replacing the whole assembly as in the case of a whole air suspension unit then it should be a straight shot but you may need to connect the wiring and pneumatic hose to the strut when you are done.
12-29-14, 06:50 AM
#18
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Don460:
I'm in the process of ordering the front shocks for my 07-ls460l and read the service manual on the procedure for removing the strut. While it is not that complicated it is very laborious.I noticed that your thread stated that the removal of the strut was easily done by"....... unbolting the top and bottom and it comes out in one piece".Can the struts be removed that easily if you put the car on ramps,but don't remove any of the other suspension components?
I'm in the process of ordering the front shocks for my 07-ls460l and read the service manual on the procedure for removing the strut. While it is not that complicated it is very laborious.I noticed that your thread stated that the removal of the strut was easily done by"....... unbolting the top and bottom and it comes out in one piece".Can the struts be removed that easily if you put the car on ramps,but don't remove any of the other suspension components?
Once that is taken care of, then it is my guess that you will have to disconnect the upper control arms to get the strut out. It's now about 3 weeks since I did the job and without the car up on the hoist, I'm going by memory. Good luck with the changeover.
04-17-15, 03:01 PM
#19
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Four weeks ago, I started buying the bushings and components for a total make over of the front suspension on my 07 LS 460 RWD without air suspension, mileage 120,000 miles.
Since I was going to do the job myself, I decided to try the components on Ebay. I bought the 4 upper control arms for $160. and since I couldn't find the lower arms, I bought the bushings for the lower control arms for about $200. All of these parts are from Taiwan. I see that the lower control arm is available now. I bought the 2 stabilizer bar links from the US @ $35 for the pair. In order to uninstall and install the bushings you need a hydraulic press, so I bought 1 for $120. The hydraulic pressing was a tough job. You need the right size steel to push the old bushing out and to install the new bushing. I was able to use sockets for that job. Other than the bushing work, the rest of the job is actually easy, however, you do need a rather unique ball joint/tie rod separator tool. For the shock, you don't need a spring compressor, you just unbolt the top and bottom and that comes out in one piece. Change bushings and install the new parts. When you install anything that works up and down with wheel travel, move the control arm up and down and estimate the middle of it's travel and do up the bolts with the control arm in that position. Your bushings will last longer by doing that. The stabilizer bar links were a bit of an issue, you need to hold the threaded part still while you do up the nuts. That can be done with allen keys, but let me tell you its better if you have the allen keys that you use with your socket wrench.
This was the first car I've done this to that didn't need a wheel alignment when the work was done. There is NO adjustment on any of those components you've just changed. The car runs straight, is quieter and a slight bit stiffer and I will be going on a 5000 mile trip shortly and I'll report how well the parts have worked. I would estimate that the job should take you about 5-6 hours and cost you less than $500. Taking the parts to a machine shop rather than buying your own hydraulic press would probably be a wash. I hope that helps someone.
Since I was going to do the job myself, I decided to try the components on Ebay. I bought the 4 upper control arms for $160. and since I couldn't find the lower arms, I bought the bushings for the lower control arms for about $200. All of these parts are from Taiwan. I see that the lower control arm is available now. I bought the 2 stabilizer bar links from the US @ $35 for the pair. In order to uninstall and install the bushings you need a hydraulic press, so I bought 1 for $120. The hydraulic pressing was a tough job. You need the right size steel to push the old bushing out and to install the new bushing. I was able to use sockets for that job. Other than the bushing work, the rest of the job is actually easy, however, you do need a rather unique ball joint/tie rod separator tool. For the shock, you don't need a spring compressor, you just unbolt the top and bottom and that comes out in one piece. Change bushings and install the new parts. When you install anything that works up and down with wheel travel, move the control arm up and down and estimate the middle of it's travel and do up the bolts with the control arm in that position. Your bushings will last longer by doing that. The stabilizer bar links were a bit of an issue, you need to hold the threaded part still while you do up the nuts. That can be done with allen keys, but let me tell you its better if you have the allen keys that you use with your socket wrench.
This was the first car I've done this to that didn't need a wheel alignment when the work was done. There is NO adjustment on any of those components you've just changed. The car runs straight, is quieter and a slight bit stiffer and I will be going on a 5000 mile trip shortly and I'll report how well the parts have worked. I would estimate that the job should take you about 5-6 hours and cost you less than $500. Taking the parts to a machine shop rather than buying your own hydraulic press would probably be a wash. I hope that helps someone.
I now have 6000 miles on the bushings and have had the car on the lift. There are no issues with the bushings, the car ran quiet, straight and smooth with no cracks in the rubber. While on my trip I decided to replace the summer tires. After getting the usual quotes for brand name tires in the $1100 range, I opted for for the Discount Tire Direct, Milestars. 235/50/18 for $340 delivered.
I have 3000 miles on them and they are quiet, smooth with no premature wear.
I did my homework and researched them on the web, I'm very happy with them.
04-17-15, 05:12 PM
#20
UPDATE
I now have 6000 miles on the bushings and have had the car on the lift. There are no issues with the bushings, the car ran quiet, straight and smooth with no cracks in the rubber. While on my trip I decided to replace the summer tires. After getting the usual quotes for brand name tires in the $1100 range, I opted for for the Discount Tire Direct, Milestars. 235/50/18 for $340 delivered.
I have 3000 miles on them and they are quiet, smooth with no premature wear.
I did my homework and researched them on the web, I'm very happy with them.
I now have 6000 miles on the bushings and have had the car on the lift. There are no issues with the bushings, the car ran quiet, straight and smooth with no cracks in the rubber. While on my trip I decided to replace the summer tires. After getting the usual quotes for brand name tires in the $1100 range, I opted for for the Discount Tire Direct, Milestars. 235/50/18 for $340 delivered.
I have 3000 miles on them and they are quiet, smooth with no premature wear.
I did my homework and researched them on the web, I'm very happy with them.
04-19-15, 03:53 PM
#21
How do you know if your bushings are bad? Can I see them without lifting the car? Do they make a sound or do you feel something? I have an 2007 LS with 73k miles. Is this inevitable for all LS owners or are some cars not showing this early wear?
04-20-15, 06:11 AM
#22
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You should be able to see those bushings with the tire and wheel off the car.
My 07 460 has almost twice the mileage that you have (129,000 miles). I'm an old guy and remember when a car with over 100,000 miles on it made the evening news. Is 73,000 miles "early wear"? I think it depends on what kind of roads you drive on.
I do know that my car drives like a new one now, and I mean that because I have wind noise from the front of the driver's door window. That little job is on the list for this week.
04-20-15, 02:48 PM
#23
Thanks don. I listened carefully (window down, radio off) as drove through my parking garage today. Sharp turns and multiple speed bumps and heard no squeaks, pops, rattles, or metal sounds. I don't feel any play in the wheel. I have my Lexus serviced by the dealer and they found a leaking water pump last time I was there. I figure they would be on the lookout for any "additional business" too. I occasionally hear wind noise when there is a cross wind but I still relish how quiet the tires are compared the Honda's I have been driving that I just can't complain.
04-20-15, 08:38 PM
#24
Thanks don. I listened carefully (window down, radio off) as drove through my parking garage today. Sharp turns and multiple speed bumps and heard no squeaks, pops, rattles, or metal sounds. I don't feel any play in the wheel. I have my Lexus serviced by the dealer and they found a leaking water pump last time I was there. I figure they would be on the lookout for any "additional business" too. I occasionally hear wind noise when there is a cross wind but I still relish how quiet the tires are compared the Honda's I have been driving that I just can't complain.
I bought an 08' 460 in May of 14 CPO from a Dealer in NJ. The rep shook my hand and said the car had a 161 point inspection, there's no need for you to check it out when I asked to put it on a lift.
I drove over the bridge in PA to another Lexus dealer, no issues during the drive, to have the car inspected only to be shown that all of the bushings needed to be replaced. It was under warranty but would have cost $4500 if it was not covered.
The car rides a bit tighter but not too different, you need to check with a flash light bushing by bushing.
04-20-15, 09:48 PM
#25
Lexus Fanatic
4500 dollars at the dealer, but to keep things in perspective, this repair can be had for less than a grand. Half that if it you DIY. And indy shop will charge about 500-750 dollars for labor. Parts are about 300-400. Not sure what a Toyota dealer would charge for labor, but likely a lot cheaper than Lexus.
04-23-15, 05:00 AM
#26
Get under the car and check the bushings.
I bought an 08' 460 in May of 14 CPO from a Dealer in NJ. The rep shook my hand and said the car had a 161 point inspection, there's no need for you to check it out when I asked to put it on a lift.
I drove over the bridge in PA to another Lexus dealer, no issues during the drive, to have the car inspected only to be shown that all of the bushings needed to be replaced. It was under warranty but would have cost $4500 if it was not covered.
The car rides a bit tighter but not too different, you need to check with a flash light bushing by bushing.
I bought an 08' 460 in May of 14 CPO from a Dealer in NJ. The rep shook my hand and said the car had a 161 point inspection, there's no need for you to check it out when I asked to put it on a lift.
I drove over the bridge in PA to another Lexus dealer, no issues during the drive, to have the car inspected only to be shown that all of the bushings needed to be replaced. It was under warranty but would have cost $4500 if it was not covered.
The car rides a bit tighter but not too different, you need to check with a flash light bushing by bushing.
Last edited by Pamperme; 04-23-15 at 05:04 AM.
04-23-15, 07:42 AM
#27
Lexus Fanatic
Lexus needs to recall, or quietly do a good will gesture covering 100% of the cost for their control arms, water pumps and starters for those that have failed.
Why? I mean, I get that some here at CL feel that Lexus is above all, but at what point do you say, "parts wear out and this is the magic number of miles...."? So, based on your last sentence, how many miles do you feel they should last and hence, be covered at no cost?
I've replaced bushings on just about every car/SUV I've owned, including my Acura, My wifes BMW X5, my Mustang and a previous Jeep Grand Cherokee. Starters on my Acura, Mustang and Jeep, and Water pumps on my Acura BMW and Jeep as well as a few other vehicles I've had. Water pumps are designed to fail and weep when they are going bad, so that you get warned early and avoid a catastrophic failure (and subsequent engine damage). On average, a water pump will last 70k miles, so my replacement at 80k miles is above average and hardly an anomaly. I have not heard of many people with starters going bad here, so that shouldn't be an issue.
04-23-15, 09:23 AM
#28
Lexus should hand out lifetime warranties and have the whole staff of the dealership bow in apology every time your car has a problem. That is still not enough for some as we should also be compensated for pain and suffering with free stuff in the form of useless trinkets.
In all seriousness a six year warranty on water pumps and starters is an outstanding industry standard against manufacturing defects.
The only thing I think Lexus is failing at is the poor operations of the dealerships that carry their name. They need to do what Toyota does best and that is to reduced the parts prices to realistic levels and stop pushing extended warranties that go hand in hand with the scam.
In all seriousness a six year warranty on water pumps and starters is an outstanding industry standard against manufacturing defects.
The only thing I think Lexus is failing at is the poor operations of the dealerships that carry their name. They need to do what Toyota does best and that is to reduced the parts prices to realistic levels and stop pushing extended warranties that go hand in hand with the scam.
04-23-15, 09:57 AM
#29
Why? I mean, I get that some here at CL feel that Lexus is above all, but at what point do you say, "parts wear out and this is the magic number of miles...."? So, based on your last sentence, how many miles do you feel they should last and hence, be covered at no cost?
I've replaced bushings on just about every car/SUV I've owned, including my Acura, My wifes BMW X5, my Mustang and a previous Jeep Grand Cherokee. Starters on my Acura, Mustang and Jeep, and Water pumps on my Acura BMW and Jeep as well as a few other vehicles I've had. Water pumps are designed to fail and weep when they are going bad, so that you get warned early and avoid a catastrophic failure (and subsequent engine damage). On average, a water pump will last 70k miles, so my replacement at 80k miles is above average and hardly an anomaly. I have not heard of many people with starters going bad here, so that shouldn't be an issue.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...ng-repair.html
04-23-15, 03:18 PM
#30
Why? I mean, I get that some here at CL feel that Lexus is above all, but at what point do you say, "parts wear out and this is the magic number of miles...."? So, based on your last sentence, how many miles do you feel they should last and hence, be covered at no cost?
I've replaced bushings on just about every car/SUV I've owned, including my Acura, My wifes BMW X5, my Mustang and a previous Jeep Grand Cherokee. Starters on my Acura, Mustang and Jeep, and Water pumps on my Acura BMW and Jeep as well as a few other vehicles I've had. Water pumps are designed to fail and weep when they are going bad, so that you get warned early and avoid a catastrophic failure (and subsequent engine damage). On average, a water pump will last 70k miles, so my replacement at 80k miles is above average and hardly an anomaly. I have not heard of many people with starters going bad here, so that shouldn't be an issue.
