cregeis

I just had my car washed yesterday and drove approximately 200 highway miles today and I just wiped my finger on the wheel and you can definitely see the dust build up. Not significantly worse than the OEM pads but definitely not better. Just my opinion.

Tee

From my experience and others the brake dust is definitely less build up than OEM.

greg3852

Joined the club today. Did all 4 with new pads and rotors. Took a couple hours but I took my time. Very very easy job. Between this and 4 new tires I am ready for an upcoming road trip.

DJWLDW

greg3852

What rotors did you go with? Please post a link if you can. Also what LS do you have?

Thanks

Dennis

Doublebase

I'd have to agree with you, I've had my pads on for 15k miles now and they do create as much dust - if not more - than my factory pads. But I like them, they are not as grabby as factory and I hear they wear a little better than factory. Performance is the same, but I am kind of shocked about the dust...thought it'd be a huge improvement....ended up being worse. No big deal, I clean my rims a lot anyway.

Doublebase

Nice! It is an easy brake job.

greg3852

My sig didn't show up for some reason, but I have a 2007 SWB 460. I ended up going with Ctek I believe. From everything I've read, they all come from China and go into white boxes where different stickers get put on. I think I paid like $35 a piece for them from Amazon shipped. Fronts are very heavy so I wouldnt want to pay for shipping. I bought the Akebono pads from Placeforbrakes. The way I looked at the rotors was there is no possible way they could be as bad as the already cut factory rotors I had. They were extremely wavy. I was shocked that they weren't cracked when i pulled them off.

rxonmymind

I have Aekbono on my IS & Napa something on the RX. Napa's produce much more brake dust than the Akebono. However we did get $40 refund for buying Napa rotors & ceramic brakes.

1BlinkGone

So...considering this thread- just WHAT pad will give better braking results AND less brake dust? I'm wondering if those "turned rotors" have too coarse a surface after turning vs new (the surface of) rotors...if they are turned correctly it shouldn't be a problem.

I'm looking for solutions for 2013+ F sport front and rear brakes that won't give me fits & dust galore...lol even pads AND rotors. I don't care, I just want the issue dealt with.

greg3852

Turning them removes metal. Thinner metal surface means its easier to warp. Thats why turning a rotor is never as good as buying a new one. Does it work? Yes, but you will end up with warped rotors that much faster.

retlex

Hey guys, so I'll be doing the front brakes this weekend with Akebono Pro-Act pads with new Centric rotors. I was doing some research on the internet looking for the proper bedding procedure when I came across this article 'Proper breaking of Akebono pads'. I was hoping to get everyones thoughts on this. I thought bedding in new pads was necessary for proper wear and preventing premature warping of rotors??



http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...f-Akebono-pads

DJWLDW

Does anyone know what the proper model number is for the Centric rotors that will fit both front and rear on my 2010 LS 460L. I have looked on Amazon but have not been able to pin it down on which is the right rotors. I have the Akebono pads for both front and rear with new hardware kits and just need to get the new rotors.

Thanks

Dennis

1BlinkGone

Yes it does remove metal. A few decades ago, rotors were meant to be turned. In today's market, with everything having engineered obsolescence, brake rotors by and large are designed to be an expendable item- a throwaway. Enter increased profit margins.

And, not to open a can of worms, but what some call warped rotors aren't in fact warped in many cases, but have accumulated an uneven layer of brake pad on the rotor surface; usually the result of a panic stop, or setting the emergency brake when the rotors are hot. In these cases, a very light pass on the lathe will clean them up and true them again without removing much metal material.

Devh

From my own observations it's not that rotors need to be replaced. If don't have any pulsing from the brakes depending on the pads you can resurface the rotors and add another set of pads. Some people take a chance and just replace a set of pads without any ill effects although it's better to have them resurfaced so that they match the pads as they break in.

As long as you have enough meat on the rotors there is no reason why you need to replace them however in the most recent times the influx of cheap rotors coming from China makes replacing good rotors vs the cost of resurfacing them a lot more narrow to go through the trouble considering you don't have any down time.

Depending on the car I have found that you can go though two sets of pads before you need to change the rotors.

Regarding the so called warping. The pad material is not the direct source of the high spot. It's the chemical reaction that changes the metal hardness due to hot spots caused by uneven pad deposition which causes the high spots and it's not just pad material that is removed, It's primarily metal.

superdenso

Agreed: warped rotors aren't in fact warped in many cases
I was given the same info from brake system manufacturers.