roadfrog

I know that at least one member here has gone over 200k miles.

Devh

Except for the German debacles in general bigger cars last longer then smaller cars all things being equal. It 's the same with with motorcycles.
Being a flag ship has some advantages also in that the manufacturing quality is going to be a few degrees better.
There was a debate we had not long ago in regard to Toyota's drop in quality due to expansion and I really don't think applies to the LS 460 because for the most part the car was isolated in regard to it's management style which is on another level entirely.

Doublebase

You bring up some great points, Toyota's supposed drop in quality clearly shouldn't be in consideration when talking about this car. I remember when they rolled out this car for the press, they did it across the street from BMW's plant (on purpose). This is the car that Lexus spent 6 months on just getting the "sound" of the door closing, right. I'd say this car has a bit more quality and reliability than a Toyota Corolla.

I've said it before, I'll say it again...I drive 600 miles a week in mine, so far so good. Aside from tires, brakes and fluids, the thing has been flawless. And I hope it continues.

Devh

I would say if anything Toyota at that time was trying something new which was vetting their best factory workers in Toyota motor city and reformulating their new assembly procedures that were far beyond anything the industry has ever seen. It's essentially what Honda did in the 90s with the NSX and for it's time the NSX was not just the most reliable sports car of it's period, it actually became the most reliable car of that era.

Chaos236

iTrader: (1)

Just went thru thru two weeks ago. My Indy did it and the new radiator was $180.00

swfla

iTrader: (1)

I'll be bringing my 71,000 mile, '10 LS 460 to Toyota for either a coolant drain and fill or a complete flush and fill. Any worries about the full flush vs a drain and fill? I'l be asking to see that the nipple for the overflow tank is intact afterwards as I understand it's easy to break off. I measure the voltage between overflow tank fluid and ground as .56 volts. An after thought, As I haven't had the water pump changed yet, maybe it makes the most sense to do a drain and fill only as a cost saving move. Replacing about half the coolant should minimize the electrolysis indicated by the .56 volts. When the water pump goes I'll lose a lot of coolant during the service. Then a new thermostat and radiator cap as well?

I'm also doing my second transmission drain and fill with them. So it's a matter of convenience as the car has to sit and cool for both jobs, Toyota will give me a ride home and back.

swfla

iTrader: (1)

I did some general internet searching. It seems that flushing requires a pricey machine that has a reservoir of coolant. Most places don't have one. It's more of a pricey gimmick. The modern HOAT type coolant we use is good for 5 years/150000 miles. I see no problem draining and topping off. It's simple, effective and affordable when done on schedule.

gemigniani

I've kept Toyota cooling systems troublefree for 42 years and counting just doing partial drains and refills every 2 years / 25,000 miles using Toyota antifreeze (mixed with distilled water when using the concentrate version). Toyota water pumps sometimes last 30+ years/250,000 miles. Thermostat is good for 15-20 years. Radiator cap 20-25 years. Just draining the radiator usually gets 60-70% of the coolant replaced.

Doublebase

I tend to agree, I think people make too much of a big deal with coolant "flushing" and getting every drop out of it. If you change it relatively frequently...every other year...maybe every 25-50k miles, you'll be fine.

Coolant flushing, coolant machines, coolant service, flush additives...it's all big business. This is what the industry does - they come up with new and exciting things to make you believe you are doing something wonderful for your car. When in actuality you just need to keep up with it a bit.

swfla

iTrader: (1)

Thanks two both of you. It's always nice to get info here, but sometimes general internet searching is good too. Coming from the boating world, I'm used to sacrificial zinc plugs attached to many powertain parts. I wonder if autos have these anodes as well? Never heard of it in the auto world. I'm hoping the stray voltage dramatically decreases after the drain and fill.