2007 LS460 Need new battery
10-12-10, 07:38 PM
#17
hang on to your receipt, it has a great warranty. 3 year free replacement, and then a prorated 8 year warranty!
750 cold cranking Amps
935 cranking Amps
130 reserve minutes
pretty hard to beat for about 100 bucks. Also Since I upgraded my audio and added several amps, there is a noticeable difference in how much current this battery puts out vs the factory OEM battery. The LS is a power hungry vehicle anways, but this is able to take care of all the electronics and the aftermarket items I put in very well.
750 cold cranking Amps
935 cranking Amps
130 reserve minutes
pretty hard to beat for about 100 bucks. Also Since I upgraded my audio and added several amps, there is a noticeable difference in how much current this battery puts out vs the factory OEM battery. The LS is a power hungry vehicle anways, but this is able to take care of all the electronics and the aftermarket items I put in very well.
08-11-11, 02:50 PM
#18
I replaced the battery in my 2007 LS460 today. The battery was not exhibiting any characteristics of failure and was the Panasonic battery that came in the car when it was put into service, new, on 27 Sep 07. I routinely replace auto batteries at 48 month as they are typically nearing the end of their life and the cost of wasted battery life versus cost and inconvenience of a failed battery are about equal at that time.
The replacement battery that I used was an InterState MT-24(H-1) and it was the exact same size as the OEM battery. The plastic shroud that goes over the battery fit the new battery perfectly. The tray that the battery sits in will accommodate a wider battery but the height and width of the MT-24 fit the tray, shroud and bracket exactly.
This was a perfect opportunity to gather some information about the power consumption to help dispel some of the myths about modern cars being unable to sit very long without depleting the battery. I used my Fluke model 179 multimeter to measure the standby current. The method I used was to put my meter in the 400mA DC mode and connect it in series with the car battery. All the car doors were closed and the power (ACC/IGN) was off. The meter has 1mA resolution in this mode and it registered ZERO. With this in mind, I believe that it would be safe to say that a car with a good battery could sit idle for a year or two and be started with no difficulty.
I gathered some other information that might be useful to some who are trouble shooting electrical problems. My method for this data was to use a Simpson 50 Amp/50 mV meter-shunt in series with the car battery and my Fluke 179 multimeter.
The first measurement was to get the battery current when the car was in the “ACC On” mode and the sound system on. I got: 7 Amps
I also measured the current with the car in the “IGN On” and the headlights on (low beam). It measured: 45 Amps
And I measured the current with the headlights on (low beam) and the “ACC/IGN Off.” It was: 14 Amps
The replacement battery that I used was an InterState MT-24(H-1) and it was the exact same size as the OEM battery. The plastic shroud that goes over the battery fit the new battery perfectly. The tray that the battery sits in will accommodate a wider battery but the height and width of the MT-24 fit the tray, shroud and bracket exactly.
This was a perfect opportunity to gather some information about the power consumption to help dispel some of the myths about modern cars being unable to sit very long without depleting the battery. I used my Fluke model 179 multimeter to measure the standby current. The method I used was to put my meter in the 400mA DC mode and connect it in series with the car battery. All the car doors were closed and the power (ACC/IGN) was off. The meter has 1mA resolution in this mode and it registered ZERO. With this in mind, I believe that it would be safe to say that a car with a good battery could sit idle for a year or two and be started with no difficulty.
I gathered some other information that might be useful to some who are trouble shooting electrical problems. My method for this data was to use a Simpson 50 Amp/50 mV meter-shunt in series with the car battery and my Fluke 179 multimeter.
The first measurement was to get the battery current when the car was in the “ACC On” mode and the sound system on. I got: 7 Amps
I also measured the current with the car in the “IGN On” and the headlights on (low beam). It measured: 45 Amps
And I measured the current with the headlights on (low beam) and the “ACC/IGN Off.” It was: 14 Amps
Last edited by jmcraney; 08-11-11 at 03:22 PM.
08-11-11, 08:19 PM
#20
I replaced the battery in my 2007 LS460 today. The battery was not exhibiting any characteristics of failure and was the Panasonic battery that came in the car when it was put into service, new, on 27 Sep 07. I routinely replace auto batteries at 48 month as they are typically nearing the end of their life and the cost of wasted battery life versus cost and inconvenience of a failed battery are about equal at that time.
The replacement battery that I used was an InterState MT-24(H-1) and it was the exact same size as the OEM battery. The plastic shroud that goes over the battery fit the new battery perfectly. The tray that the battery sits in will accommodate a wider battery but the height and width of the MT-24 fit the tray, shroud and bracket exactly.
This was a perfect opportunity to gather some information about the power consumption to help dispel some of the myths about modern cars being unable to sit very long without depleting the battery. I used my Fluke model 179 multimeter to measure the standby current. The method I used was to put my meter in the 400mA DC mode and connect it in series with the car battery. All the car doors were closed and the power (ACC/IGN) was off. The meter has 1mA resolution in this mode and it registered ZERO. With this in mind, I believe that it would be safe to say that a car with a good battery could sit idle for a year or two and be started with no difficulty.
I gathered some other information that might be useful to some who are trouble shooting electrical problems. My method for this data was to use a Simpson 50 Amp/50 mV meter-shunt in series with the car battery and my Fluke 179 multimeter.
The first measurement was to get the battery current when the car was in the “ACC On” mode and the sound system on. I got: 7 Amps
I also measured the current with the car in the “IGN On” and the headlights on (low beam). It measured: 45 Amps
And I measured the current with the headlights on (low beam) and the “ACC/IGN Off.” It was: 14 Amps
The replacement battery that I used was an InterState MT-24(H-1) and it was the exact same size as the OEM battery. The plastic shroud that goes over the battery fit the new battery perfectly. The tray that the battery sits in will accommodate a wider battery but the height and width of the MT-24 fit the tray, shroud and bracket exactly.
This was a perfect opportunity to gather some information about the power consumption to help dispel some of the myths about modern cars being unable to sit very long without depleting the battery. I used my Fluke model 179 multimeter to measure the standby current. The method I used was to put my meter in the 400mA DC mode and connect it in series with the car battery. All the car doors were closed and the power (ACC/IGN) was off. The meter has 1mA resolution in this mode and it registered ZERO. With this in mind, I believe that it would be safe to say that a car with a good battery could sit idle for a year or two and be started with no difficulty.
I gathered some other information that might be useful to some who are trouble shooting electrical problems. My method for this data was to use a Simpson 50 Amp/50 mV meter-shunt in series with the car battery and my Fluke 179 multimeter.
The first measurement was to get the battery current when the car was in the “ACC On” mode and the sound system on. I got: 7 Amps
I also measured the current with the car in the “IGN On” and the headlights on (low beam). It measured: 45 Amps
And I measured the current with the headlights on (low beam) and the “ACC/IGN Off.” It was: 14 Amps
08-14-11, 08:03 AM
#21
Moderator
I Had my batt replaced for free yesterday at the dealer, the last one was put in the car in Jan 2010. Batt did not last 2 yrs, I asked my tech what brand did he put in, he said Interstate it has Lexus name on it. I believe the last one was a Panny so i will see how long this one last.
08-15-11, 10:21 PM
#22
Lead Lap
Lexus Battery Info
I replaced the battery in my 2007 LS460 today. The battery was not exhibiting any characteristics of failure and was the Panasonic battery that came in the car when it was put into service, new, on 27 Sep 07. I routinely replace auto batteries at 48 month as they are typically nearing the end of their life and the cost of wasted battery life versus cost and inconvenience of a failed battery are about equal at that time.
The replacement battery that I used was an InterState MT-24(H-1) and it was the exact same size as the OEM battery. The plastic shroud that goes over the battery fit the new battery perfectly. The tray that the battery sits in will accommodate a wider battery but the height and width of the MT-24 fit the tray, shroud and bracket exactly.
This was a perfect opportunity to gather some information about the power consumption to help dispel some of the myths about modern cars being unable to sit very long without depleting the battery. I used my Fluke model 179 multimeter to measure the standby current. The method I used was to put my meter in the 400mA DC mode and connect it in series with the car battery. All the car doors were closed and the power (ACC/IGN) was off. The meter has 1mA resolution in this mode and it registered ZERO. With this in mind, I believe that it would be safe to say that a car with a good battery could sit idle for a year or two and be started with no difficulty.
I gathered some other information that might be useful to some who are trouble shooting electrical problems. My method for this data was to use a Simpson 50 Amp/50 mV meter-shunt in series with the car battery and my Fluke 179 multimeter.
The first measurement was to get the battery current when the car was in the “ACC On” mode and the sound system on. I got: 7 Amps
I also measured the current with the car in the “IGN On” and the headlights on (low beam). It measured: 45 Amps
And I measured the current with the headlights on (low beam) and the “ACC/IGN Off.” It was: 14 Amps
The replacement battery that I used was an InterState MT-24(H-1) and it was the exact same size as the OEM battery. The plastic shroud that goes over the battery fit the new battery perfectly. The tray that the battery sits in will accommodate a wider battery but the height and width of the MT-24 fit the tray, shroud and bracket exactly.
This was a perfect opportunity to gather some information about the power consumption to help dispel some of the myths about modern cars being unable to sit very long without depleting the battery. I used my Fluke model 179 multimeter to measure the standby current. The method I used was to put my meter in the 400mA DC mode and connect it in series with the car battery. All the car doors were closed and the power (ACC/IGN) was off. The meter has 1mA resolution in this mode and it registered ZERO. With this in mind, I believe that it would be safe to say that a car with a good battery could sit idle for a year or two and be started with no difficulty.
I gathered some other information that might be useful to some who are trouble shooting electrical problems. My method for this data was to use a Simpson 50 Amp/50 mV meter-shunt in series with the car battery and my Fluke 179 multimeter.
The first measurement was to get the battery current when the car was in the “ACC On” mode and the sound system on. I got: 7 Amps
I also measured the current with the car in the “IGN On” and the headlights on (low beam). It measured: 45 Amps
And I measured the current with the headlights on (low beam) and the “ACC/IGN Off.” It was: 14 Amps
Thanks again for enlightening all of us once again. I enjoyed reading and learning from this.
Mikey
09-22-11, 09:58 PM
#23
Driver School Candidate
any duralast gold 24-DLG users have a suggestion for a guy who needs a change asap? is it still the right choice ?
thanks!
also, as far as changing the battery, i read somewhere (maybe on this forum) but cannot find that it is poor practice to change the battery while the car is on, could possibly damage the electronics. what is the proper way of doing this? i can pay pepboys or autozone to do it or i can do it, i just don't want people to slap things around and say ok go, it's working.
what are the downsides, losing settings like homelink and music presets? will anything happen to nav? do i need a radio code? can i enter the radio code myself and do i get it from the dealer, easily?
thanks!
i found the link
http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ad.php?t=12855
thanks!
also, as far as changing the battery, i read somewhere (maybe on this forum) but cannot find that it is poor practice to change the battery while the car is on, could possibly damage the electronics. what is the proper way of doing this? i can pay pepboys or autozone to do it or i can do it, i just don't want people to slap things around and say ok go, it's working.
what are the downsides, losing settings like homelink and music presets? will anything happen to nav? do i need a radio code? can i enter the radio code myself and do i get it from the dealer, easily?
thanks!
i found the link
http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ad.php?t=12855
Last edited by roundback; 09-22-11 at 10:23 PM.
09-23-11, 07:07 AM
#24
I would not recommend changing the battery while the car is running.
You will lose the settings, and may need the code but the Nav and HomeLink should stay
Covers have to be removed to get at it, but its a 5 min swap if you know how, if you dont, maybe 10
I would call your local AutoZone and ask them if they will swap our your battery if you buy it from them. I know they test them and handle other modest swaps
You will lose the settings, and may need the code but the Nav and HomeLink should stay
Covers have to be removed to get at it, but its a 5 min swap if you know how, if you dont, maybe 10
I would call your local AutoZone and ask them if they will swap our your battery if you buy it from them. I know they test them and handle other modest swaps
09-23-11, 07:14 AM
#25
Driver School Candidate
I would not recommend changing the battery while the car is running.
You will lose the settings, and may need the code but the Nav and HomeLink should stay
Covers have to be removed to get at it, but its a 5 min swap if you know how, if you dont, maybe 10
I would call your local AutoZone and ask them if they will swap our your battery if you buy it from them. I know they test them and handle other modest swaps
You will lose the settings, and may need the code but the Nav and HomeLink should stay
Covers have to be removed to get at it, but its a 5 min swap if you know how, if you dont, maybe 10
I would call your local AutoZone and ask them if they will swap our your battery if you buy it from them. I know they test them and handle other modest swaps
so it's best to just turn off the car and do it ? how do you get the radio code back ?
thanks
09-23-11, 07:29 AM
#26
Don't even think about changing the battery with the car running!!!!
Replacing a functioning battery is simple. You just turn the ignition off, accessory power off too, and change the battery. Cmasten has given you some good advice about the HomeLink. Unless you leave the battery disconnected for several hours you won't even have to redo the radio presets. You don't need to know any kind of codes. There is a note in the owners manual that the TPMS must be initialized (benchmarked) after the battery has been disconnected. I have done this several times and it is easy, and as cmasten said, takes minutes. The only thing that takes time is mastering the little fasteners on the battery cover. If you need a tutorial on the fasteners I am sure that someone here will help you.
Replacing a functioning battery is simple. You just turn the ignition off, accessory power off too, and change the battery. Cmasten has given you some good advice about the HomeLink. Unless you leave the battery disconnected for several hours you won't even have to redo the radio presets. You don't need to know any kind of codes. There is a note in the owners manual that the TPMS must be initialized (benchmarked) after the battery has been disconnected. I have done this several times and it is easy, and as cmasten said, takes minutes. The only thing that takes time is mastering the little fasteners on the battery cover. If you need a tutorial on the fasteners I am sure that someone here will help you.
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09-23-11, 08:05 AM
#28
I am not sure what "radio code" you are referring to, but if you are talking about the XM identification code, you get that by tuning the XM to channel zero and then coordinating that with XM/Sirius. You should not need to redo your XM because your battery has been disconnected.
09-23-11, 08:30 AM
#29
Driver School Candidate
not XM, i remember back in the days, if you did something like this, the "head unit" on a car would sometimes stop working because it needed a radio code.
anyway, i will let you guys know what happens.
thanks
anyway, i will let you guys know what happens.
thanks
09-23-11, 08:38 AM
#30
You must be talking about some sort of anti-theft feature. I am not aware that there is that sort of problem with disconnecting the battery.
