More Brake Issues
10-17-14, 01:25 PM
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
More Brake Issues
Just took delivery of my 07 LS460. To make sure everything was in top condition decided to have the rotors turned and to add new Akebono pads all the way around. I took the front rotors off and learned they were too worn to turn so I put them back on until my new ones could be delivered (which happens today).
Before I put the old ones back on, the brake caliper of the wheel assembly came loose and fell. One of the caliper pistons fell out when the caliper fell draining brake fluid from that caliper. I made sure no rust or other debris fell into the piston chamber and re-installed the piston. After re-installing everything the brakes on that particular wheel (front right) would not work. I filled the fluid reservoir and bled the caliper until only fluid came out. The brakes on that side would not work at all and all sorts of warning lights came on inside the car telling me to take it to a dealer. The brake wear sensor light did not come on as I made sure that circuit was closed (I lost the clip to hold it in place so I just closed the circuit).
To try and solve the problem I pulled things apart and installed new seals on all four pistons on the caliper. I made sure that all seal rings were properly seated and that everything was re-installed properly and still the brakes would not work on that side and the warning lights remained on. The brakes worked well enough before but now the car pulls heavily to the right when braking.
My next step is to install the new rotors and pads tonight but if the old ones were working well enough before I'm not sure that the new ones will make the difference. Obviously I'm missing something. Any ideas as to why the warning lights continue to come on or why the caliper wouldn't be working (it does clamp down on the pads when bleeding the brakes)?
I suppose that I may have gotten air into other parts of the system and that I need to bleed the brakes at all other bleed points. I may also have not installed the new seals correctly but I'm fairly certain that I did.
I desperately don't want to hear that this could be the brake actuator but I also don't see how that could be the problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Before I put the old ones back on, the brake caliper of the wheel assembly came loose and fell. One of the caliper pistons fell out when the caliper fell draining brake fluid from that caliper. I made sure no rust or other debris fell into the piston chamber and re-installed the piston. After re-installing everything the brakes on that particular wheel (front right) would not work. I filled the fluid reservoir and bled the caliper until only fluid came out. The brakes on that side would not work at all and all sorts of warning lights came on inside the car telling me to take it to a dealer. The brake wear sensor light did not come on as I made sure that circuit was closed (I lost the clip to hold it in place so I just closed the circuit).
To try and solve the problem I pulled things apart and installed new seals on all four pistons on the caliper. I made sure that all seal rings were properly seated and that everything was re-installed properly and still the brakes would not work on that side and the warning lights remained on. The brakes worked well enough before but now the car pulls heavily to the right when braking.
My next step is to install the new rotors and pads tonight but if the old ones were working well enough before I'm not sure that the new ones will make the difference. Obviously I'm missing something. Any ideas as to why the warning lights continue to come on or why the caliper wouldn't be working (it does clamp down on the pads when bleeding the brakes)?
I suppose that I may have gotten air into other parts of the system and that I need to bleed the brakes at all other bleed points. I may also have not installed the new seals correctly but I'm fairly certain that I did.
I desperately don't want to hear that this could be the brake actuator but I also don't see how that could be the problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
10-17-14, 01:28 PM
#2
Lexus Fanatic
You need Techstream to properly bleed the brake system. Even my dealer had to bleed mine twice WITH Techstream before they could eliminate the warning lights and make the system happy.
10-17-14, 01:36 PM
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
10-17-14, 01:41 PM
#4
Lexus Fanatic
Techstream is Toyota/Lexus software that plugs into your car via OBD and a laptop computer. It allows techs to modify, perform service etc on your car.
Just a bit of info at this link:
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...rog&_nfpb=true
Just a bit of info at this link:
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...rog&_nfpb=true
10-17-14, 01:43 PM
#5
you don't need techstream to bleed the brakes. i didn't use it and i know few other cases. but you just have to be careful. all people i know who did it, basically completely disconnect your battery before you start the bleeding process. that way the computer doesn't even know there is/was a loss of pressure so it doesn't trigger any error codes. once done with bleeding, connect back battery and it's all good to go
on the other hand, if you didn't follow and have the errors codes now, you will have to get to dealerships (or use computer) to clear the codes
as usual, i am talking from my own experience and people who i know first hand. by the book, dealership says it has to go through their system
on the other hand, if you didn't follow and have the errors codes now, you will have to get to dealerships (or use computer) to clear the codes
as usual, i am talking from my own experience and people who i know first hand. by the book, dealership says it has to go through their system
10-17-14, 01:45 PM
#6
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
you don't need techstream to bleed the brakes. i didn't use it and i know few other cases. but you just have to be careful. all people i know who did it, basically completely disconnect your battery before you start the bleeding process. that way the computer doesn't even know there is/was a loss of pressure so it doesn't trigger any error codes. once done with bleeding, connect back battery and it's all good to go
on the other hand, if you didn't follow and have the errors codes now, you will have to get to dealerships (or use computer) to clear the codes
as usual, i am talking from my own experience and people who i know first hand. by the book, dealership says it has to go through their system
on the other hand, if you didn't follow and have the errors codes now, you will have to get to dealerships (or use computer) to clear the codes
as usual, i am talking from my own experience and people who i know first hand. by the book, dealership says it has to go through their system
10-17-14, 01:51 PM
#7
Lexus Fanatic
you don't need techstream to bleed the brakes. i didn't use it and i know few other cases. but you just have to be careful. all people i know who did it, basically completely disconnect your battery before you start the bleeding process. that way the computer doesn't even know there is/was a loss of pressure so it doesn't trigger any error codes. once done with bleeding, connect back battery and it's all good to go
on the other hand, if you didn't follow and have the errors codes now, you will have to get to dealerships (or use computer) to clear the codes
as usual, i am talking from my own experience and people who i know first hand. by the book, dealership says it has to go through their system
on the other hand, if you didn't follow and have the errors codes now, you will have to get to dealerships (or use computer) to clear the codes
as usual, i am talking from my own experience and people who i know first hand. by the book, dealership says it has to go through their system
Regardless, for 90 bucks I had mine done at the dealer and felt it was better to have it done by them in accordance with the Service Manual. Same with trans fluid change.
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10-17-14, 01:57 PM
#8
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
But isn't Techstream required in order to have the ABS valves and solenoids to operate and allow PROPER bleeding? That is my understanding. You can bleed them partially with the battery disconnected, but not entirely. Again, that's just what I understand from info I've researched. Also, even with Techstream, it requires at least two flush procedures to do it properly.
Regardless, for 90 bucks I had mine done at the dealer and felt it was better to have it done by them in accordance with the Service Manual. Same with trans fluid change.
Regardless, for 90 bucks I had mine done at the dealer and felt it was better to have it done by them in accordance with the Service Manual. Same with trans fluid change.
10-17-14, 04:52 PM
#9
Lexus Fanatic
10-17-14, 04:53 PM
#10
But isn't Techstream required in order to have the ABS valves and solenoids to operate and allow PROPER bleeding? That is my understanding. You can bleed them partially with the battery disconnected, but not entirely. Again, that's just what I understand from info I've researched. Also, even with Techstream, it requires at least two flush procedures to do it properly.
Regardless, for 90 bucks I had mine done at the dealer and felt it was better to have it done by them in accordance with the Service Manual. Same with trans fluid change.
Regardless, for 90 bucks I had mine done at the dealer and felt it was better to have it done by them in accordance with the Service Manual. Same with trans fluid change.
but i do agree, if it's just 90 bucks? going to dealership is no brainer. i doubt i can get that price here in cali haha
10-17-14, 05:23 PM
#11
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
10-18-14, 09:53 AM
#12
Pole Position
What about a pressure bleeder? Will that handle the issues with changing the brake fluid? Also will a newer Snap On scan tool be able to assist in bleeding the brakes?
I'm thinking about trying it and I don't want to take it to the dealer.
I'm thinking about trying it and I don't want to take it to the dealer.
10-18-14, 11:16 AM
#13
The 460 braking system is complex and complex brake issues should be repaired by the pros or dealership. DIY can save you money or turn into a headache and still end up at the dealership, costing you more.
10-20-14, 03:35 PM
#14
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Double, I agree with Dlbucks in part. DIY can save money or turn into a headache. For me I'm batting about 500. But, I always learn a lot and save money. I enjoy working on my vehicles and with occasional guidance from a mechanic friend of mine I've changed timing belts, transmissions, water pumps (in a GS400) and even rebuilt a couple of engines. Brakes I can usually do in my sleep. Brake systems are usually among the more simple systems. The problem with my brake system was a simple code reset issue. After hooking up to the OBDII with a diagnostic program (not Techstream by the way) the codes were cleared and the brakes work perfectly. I've since researched on the forums here and learned that a lot of owners have purchased an OBDII with software. With these and a laptop a number of other owners have been able to make adjustments that previously were only possible at a dealer. At a price of about $35 I decided to also purchase one to see if it actually works.
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