williakz

Did you use a proper Toyota/Lexus canister oil filter wrench (special tool)? The good ones are made of serious metal and have slots that engage the "wings" on the canister body. With the proper wrench, you should easily be able to apply the torque necessary to unscrew the canister in order to change the filter. Whether you will be able to unscrew the canister drain plug, if provided, is an entirely different question. The problem is that many (most?) mechanics use the canister drain plug 3/8" square to torque the entire canister, and they really crank it! The canister drain plug should be torqued to no more than 10 ft-lbs, the canister body to no more than 20 ft-lbs, and the oil pan drain plug to no more than 30 ft-lbs. Good luck.

vincentesq

I do have the toyota/lexus canister oil filter wrench that someone recommended on this forum. I tried to open with a 24mm socket and the dang thing would start slipping. I'm afraid to round out the canister body. I agree, I probably will have bring to the dealer for next oil change. I think the last tech put in the filter wayyyyyyy too tight!

roadfrog

If you bought the proper filter wrench, there's no way for it to slip because the wings/tabs would prevent that.

I agree that doing an oil change without replacing the filter is a bad idea. Filters will begin to break down after a time.

As for the Rislone, you need TWO bottles because one bottle only treats 4-5 qts of oil. I used 2 bottles and 7 qts of oil or so to bring it up to the full mark.

I have now accumulated about 2k miles on this oil change and have not added a drop of oil to keep it at the full mark on the dipstick. Before, I was adding a qt about every 1k - 1.5k miles. Furthermore, the hesitation is GONE and the power is soooo smooth. I have NEVER been a believer in "snake oils", but I was desperate for a solution and read good things about the Rislone.Engine Treatment. I will likely go another 3k miles and then use Toyota engine flush right before my oil change. Then....only Toyota 0W20 from here on out. It is apparent that our engines really need the Toyota oil which is formulated for the VVT system we have. I now believe that oil IS the cause of the hesitation issues.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Wow. You were going through a quart every thousand miles? That was really bad. I was considering switching to 0w20 but Lexus does not recommend this in the 430 engine. It's vvti may be a different design. I change my oil every 6500 or so and don't burn anything.

roadfrog

Closer to 1500 miles, but yeah. That said, Lexus considers anything over 1k miles to be "normal". BMW has the same threshold.

1BlinkGone

Changing your oil without changing the oil filter is like taking a shower and putting on your dirty underwear afterwards.

I've heard of the alleged horror stories of Fram oil filters, but in 30 years I've never once seen one fail. Including 20 years of fleet maint.

As far as air filters, there was a test done about 10 years ago by an independent group.... the worst filter as far as lack of filtration and abnormally high silicate levels?
K&N oiled gauze media.

The best combination of flow with the best filtration?
The humble Delco paper air filter.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

so this problem is still happening?

people have been telling me the cure Is switching to Toyota brand oil?

These engines are also burning oil ?

roadfrog

They're not burning oil as far as I know!

As for the hesitation issue.....THAT I can wholeheartedly speak too. Here's the lowdown:

As with some other members here, I encountered severe hesitation at times after changing the oil and filter. The hesitation disappeared after a few hundred miles. Some speculated that it could be associated with resetting the oil minder (basically an electrical glitch), others suggested a viscosity issue, knock sensor issue, (thus retarding the timing), and a host of other ideas. A few others and myself were of the belief that it might be the knock sensor as a result of the sensor detecting a tick in the valvetrain (lifters). Desperate, I purchased a couple of bottles of Rislone Engine Treatment which promised the elimination of lifter noise. Despite being a staunch anti- "snake oils" guy I added the Rislone into my oil change routine.

Crossing my fingers and hoping for some good news, I headed out to work and waited for that inevitable hesitation and lack of throttle response. There was none. Not convinced, I drove home expecting at least one episode before I got home. There was none. Days went by which included a couple of longer trips.....no hesitation. Not only that, but the throttle response and acceleration became smoother and smoother as the days and weeks progressed.

Then DevH, (another member here), suggested that the VVT-I system in our cars are sensitive to oil sludge, etc and that the Rislone was cleaning the screens and tight passages in that system, resulting in the improved performance. Further, he suggested that the additive package was likely altering the viscosity of the oil and adding to the apparent cure. He also stated that in his opinion, the Toyota oils have the necessary additives to allow the VVT system to do it's job properly.

As I stated earlier in my other post, prior to this last oil change with the Rislone, I was adding a disturbing amount of oil to keep the level at the uppermost mark on the dipstick - to the tune of about a quart per 1-1.5k miles. On this OCI, I have not added a drop of oil and I'm over 2k miles so far!

On my next oil change, I will be using ONLY Toyota 0W20 syn and a bottle of this:



I bought it at my local Toyota dealership for 27 dollars. It states specifically on the bottle, that it's formulated for Toyota and Lexus VVT-I systems. The directions state to warm up the engine to normal operating temperature, add the contents of the bottle to the crankcase and let the engine idle for 15 minutes. Then, drain and refill with Toyota oil.

In summation, I believe that I've cured my issue and then some. My car is now ultra smooth and power is linear at all times. The added bonus of eliminating oil consumption is the kicker.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for explaiing Roadfrog, im really glad uve found your fix, but damn that's a lot to have to deal with man for a car that im sure cost you a lot of money.

I really hope lexus comes out with an explanation for this soon, its really unacceptable.

roadfrog

Meh, I dunno if it was a "LOT" to deal with, but it was annoying...and potentially dangerous. I guess after getting out of my 7 series, I was ecstatic that this was the only issue I was dealing with and it wasn't leaving me stranded like the Beemer had! Also, keep in mind that this issue only cropped up after an oil change and went away after a few hundred miles. Additionally, it didn't do it ALL the time, but that was the problem, you didn't know if it would do it at the worst possible time..ie: when accelerating and turning in front of cross-traffic.

As for Lexus explaining it, it may just fuel their argument that we should only be using proper viscosity Toyota oil as per the manual.

I've been tempted to drain my Rislone treated oil early and put in the Toyota stuff, but I think I'll let the Rislone continue to do it's thing for a few more thousand miles and change it just before Winter. Unlike the Toyota Oil System Cleaner, Rislone is a slow working product meant to do it's job over the course of an OCI.....in my case about 5-6k miles. I'll change it out at 5k.

7milesout

Sorry to dredge up an old thread.

roadfrog - You never posted your Blackstone Lab Results. I for one am very curious.

enjo

Just change my oil and filter with Mobil 1, 0W40, no hesitation. fingers crossed.

Valley101

ENJO, Why would you use 0W40 when the manual specifically calls for 0W20? Seems to me like this may cause some type of problem in the long run.

Dirteeboy

iTrader: (5)

I used Mobil 1, 0w20 "Advanced Fuel Economy" says suitable for Hondas and Toyotas. I believe there are two different types of 0w20 from Mobil 1. Changed filter with Toyota OEM and reset maintenance light.

It's been around 500+ miles and no hesitations. Fingers crossed as well.

Doublebase

I believe Mobil 1 now has a few different synthetics to choose from...the regular synthetic, extended life synthetic and something else. Bob's the oil guy did a test on the extended life stuff and it didn't do so well in a few categories compared to other synthetics...the regular synthetic seemed to do better overall.