AtlantaCPA

OK, Two days ago, at random, my lock stuck and would not open. I looked on this site and the best solution was to try to reset by disconnecting the battery. However, yesterday before I could get home and try it, the trunk starting opening and would not shut.

This morning I did the battery d/c. I notice the latch would pull the trunk down and then release several times. It appears about 5 times and then stopped in the open position. I put a screwdriver in the latch hook to see if that would stop the latch. It would not. I did the battery d/c about 5 times and no avail. I also checked the emergency pull inside the trunk and it is fine. I checked the latch release inside the car as well as in the glove box and they both appear to be in good working order.

So, I am led to believe I have either a wiring harness or a motor problem. I am leaning to the wiring harness because the pull down motor for the soft close is also not working. Any suggestions from the experts? I really dont want to spend $1,500 on a repair. Thanks.

jmcraney

I've read your post carefully and it seems to me that the most likely cause of your problem is that there is an obstruction that is preventing your trunk from closing. Because of the shape of the trunk and the trunk-lid it is easy to misjudge what will fit in there without causing a problem.

I seem to be alone in my belief that doing the "battery disconnect reset" is an unnecessary step in getting the trunk open. When the trunk latch mechanism is tripped and the trunk fails to open, all that is needed to get it open is to lift it, by grasping under the lip above the license plate, and pulling up. In your case the trunk probably opened spontaneously because the latch mechanism was tripped and the vibration and dynamics of driving freed it up and it would have opened if you had just pulled it up.

The reason that the close operation is not completing is also due to some sort of obstruction and probably the same thing that caused the failure to open. The reason that it tries "5 times" is either a thermal protection for the motor or something in the electronics that limits the number of tries to prevent damage to the latch mechanism.

We all seem to prefer the "high tech" problems like motors and wiring harnesses however yours is more likely the "low tech" type. Check to see if you are putting too much in your trunk and check around the lid gasket for foreign material and check the latch point for something that would block the operation.

AtlantaCPA

OK, I looked. Nothing jammed. I created a video. Attached. Perhaps this will help. If you would like pictures or a video of another part, let me know. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH9Aa...ature=youtu.be BTW. I did nothing to it other than connect & disconnect the battery.

I8ABMR

everything looks normal to me in the video. How about the latch/hook at the base of the trunk

AtlantaCPA

Here is the exact thing that happens. When I lower it, the motor kicks it. Sounds like it wraps around the hook and releases. Just like the video. I already inserted a screwdriver (pretending the be the latch) and it works just like the video. Hooks and releases.

jmcraney

Try pulling the lid down about half way and then doing the trip thing with the pencil. Let us know what happens. There are some switches in the hinge-root that are related to the operation so you should inspect that area to see if anything has gotten in there.

AtlantaCPA

Tried half way and I get the same lock and release action in the video. I used a screwdriver instead of a pencil. I also probed both hinges and nothing seems to be put of order. Lastly, one other note. The motor for the auto close is not engaging at all. No sound or trunk.action. it kinda leads me to believe a wiring harness short.

jmcraney

Mine is in good working order and I tried the things that you tried. When I simulate closing with the trunk up, mine just latches the latch mechanism like you would expect. When it is halfway down and I do the same thing nothing happens. So, it must be one of those "high tech" problems. Just to be on the safe side, I would disconnect the battery one more time. I don't believe that the battery disconnect is necessary to get the trunk open, but it may be required to get the logic and mechanical parts synchronized. Sorry if I have added any confusion.

AtlantaCPA

Given my work schedule, I am going to run it by the dealership on Monday and have them tell me what's wrong and get a quote. I will post and let everyone know after I find out. If it is wiring harness or motor, I will ikely do an ebay buy and do it myself.

Conversely, if any other reader would like to chime in, I would certainly welcome alternatives to troubleshoot the trunk. For now, I am using the "redneck" trunk latch of good ole duct tape.

KDunavant

How much did this end up costing you? I am having the same issues.

Thanks,

KD

Nospinzone

KD, considering that AtlantaCPA hasn't posted here in over 8 months, you might not want to hold your breath.

Jdhlaw1987

Just had the same thing happen to me. However there was a clicking noise before it stopped working. I can slam it shut but it will not hold and the trunk opens when I close my door. Anyone have an answer?

Nospinzone

You know it is a shame that AtlantaCPA never returned to this thread. Surely he got his problem fixed. Jmcraney and I8ABMR took the time to try to help him and not so much as a thank you. The lack of courtesy is beyond me.

Hopefully someone can help you out.

KDunavant

AtlantaCPA never responded but I can tell you I had to have the lower trunk latch motor assembly replaced and with labor and all it was $980 at Lexus of Mobile. I tried everything else and nothing worked. Hope this helps.

epcox

I, too, just spent $950 dollars getting my trunk latch repaired. The mechanic gave me the broken one and after inspecting it, I see that it's a rather cheap part of the assembly that failed. It's a plastic limit switch that governs the motor operation. In a perfect world, Lexus would offer that switch to replace as a Field Replaceable Unit for $50 bucks instead of the whole assembly for $700.
It only takes two screws to replace it. (sigh). The rest of the unit looks fine and rugged.

In my mind, this was built-in obsolescence or poor design.

It was extremely disappointing to own such a fine car and get hit with this exorbitant bill. Could not close the trunk without it, though.

Keywords: LS460 LS 460 Trunk Latch Assembly Switch Repair Part