jbrittmart

factory sub blew... again.

I'm hoping to put one in the trunk.

All I'd need is an LOC tapped in between the aftermarket amp and OEM lines right?

Where's the best place to tap?

Any advice on which LOC to use?

Thanks

lbintab

iTrader: (1)

Tap in before the amp. That's how all our sub installs are done with the Mark Levinson

jbrittmart

thanks for the advice.... that's what I'll do.

any advice on a good, reasonably priced LOC to use?

haven't bought one of those in many years.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

I don't think you need an LOC if you tap into the signal wires before the amp.

jbrittmart

definitely didn't realize that....

can anyone else confirm this?

lbintab

iTrader: (1)

You still need one

Unomelodic

Hi guys,

Sorry to jump in here , looking at doing something similar, albeit my sub isn't blown just looking at achieving that extra bass octave with something small and discreet.

Anybody know which wires to tap into ?

By the way i'm in the UK 2010 LS600HL

Many thanks

Uno

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

Is that because the input to the sub amp are speaker level?

lbintab

iTrader: (1)

No...it's because you don't want to use the aftermarket amps LOC. You want the cleanest set of RCA's you can get. Then you need to tune the LOC. It gets really complicated at this point. You want to find out where your system will naturally distort and turn it up to that then tune the LOC to the point where that distorts. When you now know where everything distorts you know the loudest you can have your system and still have clean sound. You also need special equipment to determine where it all distorts.

sktn77a

iTrader: (2)

I think we're talking at cross purposes here. What I'm saying is if the head unit outputs line level voltage, you don't need an LOC (unless they are balanced, which I don't think the Lexus/ML are). It appears you are assuming (or know) that the head unit outputs are speaker level?

jbrittmart

Where's the most convenient place to wire the remote signal for the amp from?

Thought about the PAC SOEM-T line output converter cause it has a remote signal wire built in, but I read that these cause a lot of hiss.

Going to go with the Audiocontrol LC2i or Stinger SGN13 unless someone else has a better suggestion.

pmiller

I tapped into the wires between the ML amp and the factory subwoofer. I have an amp and 10" subwoofer with an adjustable control on the line that I can control while driving. Basically it controls the bass output with a little **** located next to my left leg. I installed the whole system myself and don't have much car audio experience. I've had it in my 2010 LS460L for about 9 months. It definitely adds bass to the system. I did it because I found the factory bass to be lacking enough push. There are numerous threads on that subject. I did a thread on my mod. I've been pleased. I'm curious why I should tap into the wires before the amp? I noticed that in a post above. Is what I've done wrong? Or just a difference of preference? Thanks for the feedback.

jbrittmart

is there a remote signal to tap into before the OEM amp? if not is there somewhere else in the trunk to tap this for the aftermarket amp?