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I was able to capture the creaking sound coming from front left area when braking. Searching the forum produced numerous threads with descriptions, but none that I could find with the actual sound. Diagnosis ranged from front shock/strut wear to lower control arm bushing wear.
The shocks nor LCA bushings have not been replaced on this car. It's a 2004 with 155k miles. Front pads replaced a couple months ago. Creaking started 2 weeks ago.
hard to hear, but I think I have the same, it's when braking, but not brakes, a clunk. I have an '06 with then 80k at the time of discovery. I'm planning on getting Mevotech LCA's and see. But I have this hunch it could be the shock mounts--don't plan on doing that just yet at 84k. If it were me, I'd try the LCA's first. What I'll do is ask for my OEMs LCAs back. In the future, if the Mevotechs needed to be replaced, I'll send the OEMs out to have new bushings pressed in...maybe poly.....
at 155k, I think you could consider replacing the shocks and mounts, it's likely time...
1) Check for looseness - Jack the front wheel off the ground. Grab and rock the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock position to check for free play. Repeat this step while grabbing 6 and 12 o'clock. If free play is detected, the likely culprits are tie rod end ball joint, lower ball joint, or upper ball joint. You can normally find the problem with a visual inspection (look for cracked rubber boots or grease leak).
2) Visually inspect the lower control arm bushings. Look for cracks in the rubber bushing.
btw, my LCA rear bushings clearly have cracks. Again, mine is a 10/05 production with 84k.....if there is a state safety inspection like there is in PA, a car does not pass with play on the tie rods. I had my Maxima at a AAA shop to mount/balance tires ordered online, and they stated normally we'd recommend an alignment with new tires, but you've got play on your RF, so we're not recommending the alignment until you address the tie rod, which you'll have to do before your next inspection. Once again, demonstrated integrity, because the LF was replaced the prior year....but I digress...
At 155K on the clock and 13 years old, the lower control arm bushings are likely worn. Lower ball joints are likely worn as well. The knocking in your video sounds like either. When you turn the steering wheel all the way (try right and left) to do a U-turn, do you hear a clunk? That is classic lower control arm bushing.
At 155K on the clock and 13 years old, the lower control arm bushings are likely worn. Lower ball joints are likely worn as well. The knocking in your video sounds like either. When you turn the steering wheel all the way (try right and left) to do a U-turn, do you hear a clunk? That is classic lower control arm bushing.
There is no clunk when maxing out the turn. Matter of fact, the creaking sound from the video is not present if stopping while the wheel is turned in either direction. Only on straight stops.
hard to hear, but I think I have the same, it's when braking, but not brakes, a clunk. I have an '06 with then 80k at the time of discovery. I'm planning on getting Mevotech LCA's and see. But I have this hunch it could be the shock mounts--don't plan on doing that just yet at 84k. If it were me, I'd try the LCA's first. What I'll do is ask for my OEMs LCAs back. In the future, if the Mevotechs needed to be replaced, I'll send the OEMs out to have new bushings pressed in...maybe poly.....
at 155k, I think you could consider replacing the shocks and mounts, it's likely time...
I probably will replace them soon. Bring back that soft, cloud like ride.
1) Check for looseness - Jack the front wheel off the ground. Grab and rock the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock position to check for free play. Repeat this step while grabbing 6 and 12 o'clock. If free play is detected, the likely culprits are tie rod end ball joint, lower ball joint, or upper ball joint. You can normally find the problem with a visual inspection (look for cracked rubber boots or grease leak).
2) Visually inspect the lower control arm bushings. Look for cracks in the rubber bushing.
I will do these checks over the weekend. I plan to replace the front rotors and will do a full inspection at same time.
There is no clunk when maxing out the turn. Matter of fact, the creaking sound from the video is not present if stopping while the wheel is turned in either direction. Only on straight stops.
Pretty sure mine is the same, because I went to a mall parking lot and made turns at full lock, even before I knew I had the clunk, and heard nothing....and again I see the cracks in my bushings.
btw is "dead" in your screen name, Grateful Dead? just wondering...
Pretty sure mine is the same, because I went to a mall parking lot and made turns at full lock, even before I knew I had the clunk, and heard nothing....and again I see the cracks in my bushings.
I will check them out this weekend.
btw is "dead" in your screen name, Grateful Dead? just wondering...
I was tagged with the name "deadguy" years ago by friends of mine, in reference to my occupation. Funeral Director.
I think I'm going to go with these and have a shop install....normally I would rather have OEM, but OEM is very costly and need to be pressed out, and these are stamped steel anyway, not forged aluminum.
They seem to be of decent quality and I think they have a 60k warranty. Also, I see that Mevotech has a multitude of suspension components for all cars, and when I emailed them, they emailed right back, so they are a real company....
Those bushings in the pics are toast. They are oil filled from the factory and when they are cracked like that there is no oil left inside. When worn they can make all sorts of front end noises. New OEM bushings are around $80 each and are quite easy to change. I wouldn't recommend replacing the entire arm as the other bushing isn't known to wear and the labor will be less. I would also have doubts about the quality of the bushings in the new arms. Are they oil filled or solid rubber? A lot more engineering goes into a factory part as opposed to an aftermarket piece that just looks the same.
Those bushings in the pics are toast. They are oil filled from the factory and when they are cracked like that there is no oil left inside. When worn they can make all sorts of front end noises. New OEM bushings are around $80 each and are quite easy to change. I wouldn't recommend replacing the entire arm as the other bushing isn't known to wear and the labor will be less. I would also have doubts about the quality of the bushings in the new arms. Are they oil filled or solid rubber? A lot more engineering goes into a factory part as opposed to an aftermarket piece that just looks the same.
Cool, rather than go 60 miles, I'll ask a "speed" shop near my work about the labor each way. It does look like OEM rear bushings can be had maybe $135/pair. I see this shop does mostly Audis/BMWs, however, they seem to also be working on the township's cop cars, I doubt a LS would be any problem (the so-called Japanese specialist 12 miles away, that told me not sure about the LCA job, don't see too many cars like mine floored me, I think a proper response would be let me check and call you back)....dunno coulda sworn Mevotechs were used by 460 owners and they think they're good...
01-06-17, 05:17 AM
Front end sound diagnosis
