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David, If you are going to do this wire harness splice, all of the info you need is in the pinout pic posted by rkw in post # 2 above and attached here. Splice the white wire from the #1 knock sensor connector (E6 - 28) to the corresponding red wire from knock sensor #2 connector (E6 - 29), and the black wire (E6 - 30) from the knock sensor #1 connector to thecorresponding green wire (E6 - 31) of knock sensor #2. Both engine banks will then be relying on the #2 knock sensor and wiring. Note: when you have the intake manifold off, examine the wiring for knock sensor #1 to determine if it can be repaired before doing the wiring hack to slave bank 1 onto bank 2.
David, If you are going to do this wire harness splice, all of the info you need is in the pinout pic posted by rkw in post # 2 above and attached here. Splice the white wire from the #1 knock sensor connector (E6 - 28) to the corresponding red wire from knock sensor #2 connector (E6 - 29), and the black wire (E6 - 30) from the knock sensor #1 connector to thecorresponding green wire (E6 - 31) of knock sensor #2. Both engine banks will then be relying on the #2 knock sensor and wiring. Note: when you have the intake manifold off, examine the wiring for knock sensor #1 to determine if it can be repaired before doing the wiring hack to slave bank 1 onto bank 2.
Thanks, I pulled the maifold off and replaced the Knock senor. I checked the wire while I was in there, I saw no damage to it anywhere (followed it back pretty far). When I use Techstrean to reset the code, the light stays off for about 3-5 min wile driving, the car runs perfectly smooth but, as soon as the light comes back on, it starts running like crap (the notied symtoms of this issue). I do plan on fixing it at some point but, with the car running like this my MPG goes down by about 5-8 MPG, and the car runs like crap. I need a work-around for now on this. Just to get the car running smooth again and getting the MPG up.
In a nut shell... Sounds fairly easy to do as a work-around for NOW. So we are just combining the sensor 1 to Sensor 2 and abanding the connections to senor 1. got it now.
Splice white wire from Knock Senor 1 (E6 - 28) to Red Wire from knock sensor #2 connector (E6 - 29)
The black wire (E6 - 30) from the knock sensor #1 connector to the corresponding green wire (E6 - 31) of knock sensor #2
Thanks for your help here and I hope this clears it up for others who are running into the same issue.
Thanks, I pulled the maifold off and replaced the Knock senor. I checked the wire while I was in there, I saw no damage to it anywhere (followed it back pretty far). When I use Techstrean to reset the code, the light stays off for about 3-5 min wile driving, the car runs perfectly smooth but, as soon as the light comes back on, it starts running like crap (the notied symtoms of this issue). I do plan on fixing it at some point but, with the car running like this my MPG goes down by about 5-8 MPG, and the car runs like crap. I need a work-around for now on this. Just to get the car running smooth again and getting the MPG up.
In a nut shell... Sounds fairly easy to do as a work-around for NOW. So we are just combining the sensor 1 to Sensor 2 and abanding the connections to senor 1. got it now.
Splice white wire from Knock Senor 1 (E6 - 28) to Red Wire from knock sensor #2 connector (E6 - 29)
The black wire (E6 - 30) from the knock sensor #1 connector to the corresponding green wire (E6 - 31) of knock sensor #2
Thanks for your help here and I hope this clears it up for others who are running into the same issue.
I believe that should be it. Basically having both knock sensor wire harnesses from the ECU connected to the one known working knock sensor and knock sensor harness - sensor #2. The assumption is that the #1 knock sensor harness is faulty (open) somewhere.
It could be a bad connection inside the plastic wire connector. If it's not brittle, you could try to clean the contacts inside the wire harness connector, as well as the metal contacts of the #1 knock sensor.
I believe that should be it. Basically having both knock sensor wire harnesses from the ECU connected to the one known working knock sensor and knock sensor harness - sensor #2. The assumption is that the #1 knock sensor harness is faulty (open) somewhere.
It could be a bad connection inside the plastic wire connector. If it's not brittle, you could try to clean the contacts inside the wire harness connector, as well as the metal contacts of the #1 knock sensor.
I would go back in and double check it but, pulling the whole thing apart is like a 2-4 hour job and almost $100 in parts ( 2 or 3 gaskets) to double check something. Till I have a solid option, I might have to live with it till at least spring time (as nights/weekends are getting colder now) and I will re-look at the issue. I actually have never cleaned the throttle body from the inside before....
The car has a lot of miles on it now but, runs over all great (besides some minor stuff), so I would like to keep it running at top shape if I can. I do need it to run good for now. I just cant take it any more...
I would go back in and double check it but, pulling the whole thing apart is like a 2-4 hour job and almost $100 in parts ( 2 or 3 gaskets) to double check something. Till I have a solid option, I might have to live with it till at least spring time (as nights/weekends are getting colder now) and I will re-look at the issue. I actually have never cleaned the throttle body from the inside before....
The car has a lot of miles on it now but, runs over all great (besides some minor stuff), so I would like to keep it running at top shape if I can. I do need it to run good for now. I just cant take it any more...
I understand the cost, labor time and hassle of this difficult diagnosis, pulling the intake manifold off. Since you already replaced the #1 knock sensor, it can only be the wiring harness/connection as others have experienced and reported. (Sometimes, mice get in there and start chewing the knock sensor wires!)
You could run a wire continuity test (if you had it apart) from the wire harness connector at the knock sensor back to the ECU.
David, If you are going to do this wire harness splice, all of the info you need is in the pinout pic posted by rkw in post # 2 above and attached here. Splice the white wire from the #1 knock sensor connector (E6 - 28) to the corresponding red wire from knock sensor #2 connector (E6 - 29), and the black wire (E6 - 30) from the knock sensor #1 connector to thecorresponding green wire (E6 - 31) of knock sensor #2. Both engine banks will then be relying on the #2 knock sensor and wiring. Note: when you have the intake manifold off, examine the wiring for knock sensor #1 to determine if it can be repaired before doing the wiring hack to slave bank 1 onto bank 2.
I looked over this and attempted to check it out. The pins are not the same as his diagram and the directions you gave me. Does anyone know the right pin out for this ?
Here is an image of the wiring from my ECU, it's in a 2001 LS... E6 30 does not even have anything connected to it and the other colors dont match what you were saying so I stopped at that point.
I reset my codes (pulled the battery for an hour) and drove the car, it ran awesome, then the light comes on and it runs like crap...ugh, need this working for now and need this work around till I can get it fixed for good.
The diagram I posted on Post #2 shows the correct pin-out for your car. Attached are the pages from the repair manual with more details...
Refer to the diagram below, if you want to bypass the LH sensor, you would cut the Black wire (Terminal E6-1) and abandon the sensor-side of the wire. You would splice the ECM-side of the Black wire to the RH sensor White wire (E6-2).
The diagram I posted on Post #2 shows the correct pin-out for your car. Attached are the pages from the repair manual with more details...
On your attachment on Post 2, you show(wth the arrorws) the knock senor 1 connection on E6-28 /E6-30. If you look at the picture I attached to my last post a picture showing the ECU on my car E6-30 and 31 does not even have a pin/wire connected to it...nor do the colors match up from what was said above. This is why I am confused here.
I want to be 100% before cutting wires on the ECU...
Or do you refer to ....
KNKL (E6−1) − E1 (E6−7) B ↔BR
KNKR (E6−2) − E1 (E6−7) W ↔BR
I am assuming KNKR/L means Knock left and right (left being driver side from the drivers seat) As knock sensors (KNKL) 1 and (KNKR) 2 ? I am assuming the E1 is the ground (shared ground assuming both being E6-7)?
Does this make sense ? Just clip sensor 1 and connect those connections to 2 to the ECU
On your attachment on Post 2, you show(wth the arrorws) the knock senor 1 connection on E6-28 /E6-30. If you look at the picture I attached to my last post a picture showing the ECU on my car E6-30 and 31 does not even have a pin/wire connected to it...nor do the colors match up from what was said above. This is why I am confused here.
I'm sorry for not clarifying the red arrows. They are for you to attach an oscilloscope to view the waveform.
Originally Posted by DavidinCT
Just clip sensor 1 and connect those connections to 2 to the ECU
Yes, you're correct. Clip the black wire from E6-1, and then splice the white wire from E6-2 to the black wire connected to the ECM on E6-1. Do not cut the white wire, instead, use one of those quick splice connectors pictured below...
I'm sorry for not clarifying the red arrows. They are for you to attach an oscilloscope to view the waveform.
Yes, you're correct. Clip the black wire from E6-1, and then splice the white wire from E6-2 to the black wire connected to the ECM on E6-1. Do not cut the white wire, instead, use one of those quick splice connectors pictured below...
Thanks again, worked perfect. After having the battery disconnected and the cover off the ECU, I think the whole process took me 45 seconds to do and no CEL or driving issues...
Finally driving nice again, I'll adress this issue in spring as it's not a priorty now.
10-19-16, 08:14 PM
