When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Decided to do my oil pan gasket tonight. Fairly simple job.
-Jack up front of car
-remove lower cover 10mm screws
-drain oil
-remove each of the 2 motor mount nuts 17mm
-lift engine using hoist or jack
-remove the oil pan bolts 10mm's. A universal socket helps here.
-remove oil pan (may have to pry slightly to break seal)
-clean oil pan and mounting surface as well as bottom of motor where it was removed from. Razor blade, die grinder, brake cleaner, etc..
-use RTV silicone (I like the grey the best)and put a good bead around the oil pan.
-reinstall pan and tighten bolts.
-lower engine and reinstall motor mount nuts
-give time for silicone to set up and dry. At least an hour to be safe
Add oil and check for leaks 👍🏼
Nice diy. Although I disagree on using RTV vs a preformed gasket. Robots put this stuff on at the factory in perfect amounts. Any extra through human error can end up in your oil pan and engine.
Nice diy. Although I disagree on using RTV vs a preformed gasket. Robots put this stuff on at the factory in perfect amounts. Any extra through human error can end up in your oil pan and engine.
What would you use? I use it almost everyday at my shop on a variety of applications. No problems as longs as u let it dry.
This advice was also given by a Lexus master mechanic who used to be on the forums often. Same for the transmission pan. If you get it right it's great. Get it wrong it can be catastrophic for the engine.
This advice was also given by a Lexus master mechanic who used to be on the forums often. Same for the transmission pan. If you get it right it's great. Get it wrong it can be catastrophic for the engine.
As an ASE master tech with 20 years in the business I have never seen RTV damage an engine. You would have to be a moron or intentionally put enough on that it could get into the engine oiling system. Especially if u let it dry.
The factory uses silicone, the dealer sells it as the gasket material, I have dozens of times seen aftermarket oil pan/transmission pan gaskets leak without the use or RTV, and I've never seen it "cause" a problem.
As a matter of fact, Volvo uses a pink silicone on their oil pans that never dries hard. Stays soft forever.
I know you may have read things online but until you experience them on a daily basis, its hard to understand.
If you don't use RTV sealant, then what alternative non-OEM sealant would one use? Gasket shellac doesn't adhere well (or have longevity) with composite gasket materials. If you can't apply RTV sealant in the correct amount, then you shouldn't be doing the DIY job.
I'm aware of that thread. Been using Fel-Pro gaskets for years. Just don't glob on your favorite gasket sealant and you won't have the problem LScowboy mentions.
Lav, did you ever DIY change valve covers, transmission pan or oil pan gasket? Are you saying you would only use a dry Fel-Pro gasket without any sealant?
I have never personally done the job. I think if it is done properly FIPG is fine but their is a fine line between too much and not enough. Also, how do you know sealant is not coming off inside the engine and causing harm? It would be interesting if you run lab test on your oil to see if you have any contamination.
LScowboy's point was that he wouldn't use FIPG alone (i.e. without a Fel-Pro gasket). FIPG = "formed in place gasket." RTV is the same product by a different brand. They are both silicone glue adhesives that are designed for use in contact with oil and gas. Apply a thin coat of FIPG or RTV to both sides of surfaces where Fel-Rro gasket will join in contact. There is no residue or contamination from RTV or FIPG when used sparingly. It will not be detected in oil tests especially since it is not soluble. There are various types of RTV so you do have to select the correct type for the specific gasket seal.
The base component in FIPG and RTV is silicone glue - because of it's holding power and flexibility, it is used at the edges to hold all-glass aquariums together. It doesn't break into pieces, unless too much is applied. I've used it on valve cover, intake manifold, oil pan, and third member gear cover gaskets, never having any pieces breaking off. If you try it, you'll see what I mean. It's like flexible rubber when fully cured.
Many if not most of modern imports have sealant only gaskets on lower oil pans, transmission pans, differential covers, etc...
If you called Lexus and asked them for a replacement lower oil pan gasket they would sell you "their" brand of RTV silicone.
The factory service manual is very specific when it comes to FIPG placement. Every place it is needed it tells you what size to cut the tip, has a drawing to show exact placement, and even has a cross section view to verify bead size. It also tells you that if the part is not installed within 5 minutes you must clean it off and reapply. The factory used the fipg on the front corners of the valve cover gaskets, underneath the front camshaft bearing cap, and all oil pans.
LScowboy's point was that he wouldn't use FIPG alone (i.e. without a Fel-Pro gasket). FIPG = "formed in place gasket." RTV is the same product by a different brand. They are both silicone glue adhesives that are designed for use in contact with oil and gas. Apply a thin coat of FIPG or RTV to both sides of surfaces where Fel-Rro gasket will join in contact. There is no residue or contamination from RTV or FIPG when used sparingly. It will not be detected in oil tests especially since it is not soluble. There are various types of RTV so you do have to select the correct type for the specific gasket seal.
The base component in FIPG and RTV is silicone glue - because of it's holding power and flexibility, it is used at the edges to hold all-glass aquariums together. It doesn't break into pieces, unless too much is applied. I've used it on valve cover, intake manifold, oil pan, and third member gear cover gaskets, never having any pieces breaking off. If you try it, you'll see what I mean. It's like flexible rubber when fully cured.
I recently used RTV to seal the oil pan on my wife's SAAB. It was given as the GM factory part number for the oil pan gasket and we let it dry for over 24 hours. I fail to see how the LS is any different. That stuff dries hard but is EXTREMELY sticky. I would think even if there was some overspill, it would stick right were it was applied. I've noticed that if you do pick at RTV when it's dried it will come off in bigger chunks. If some fell into the pan, there is a strainer on the pick-up tube and then also oil filter. I would have a hard time seeing how it would get through all of those.
If people are still afraid, I have used Permatex - High Tack Gasket Sealant on several applications (water pump gasket, valve cover gasket, etc) and it hasn't let me down.
You could brush this goop onto the Fel-Pro gasket before assembly to make it stick extra well. Using this I have never had any leaks on any of my gaskets - it ensures an air-tight seal and so that the gasket doesn't shift when you tighten the fasteners.
The concern is if you apply too much it will squeeze on the inside of the pan and into the pan itself mixing into the oil or transmissions fluid. Although, this may not happen to those who apply the sealant properly apparently it happened enough for lsCowboyls to comment on seeing it all the time.
01-01-16, 01:51 AM
Oil Pan Gasket DIY
