jpcdmd

Thanks for the insight about the butt connectors. Taking it back to my regular indy shop this morning and going to talk to the owner and show him the wiring. The battery is 6 months old. I'm confident the OCV's are good. I replaced both of them and the Toyota dealer replaced one of my new ones (and tossed it in the trash unfortunately). I'm not sure of the exact code that it throwing now but according to their write-up its one of the VVT sensors.

rkw77080

The OCV (Oil Control Valve) and the VVT (Variable Valve Timing) sensor work together with the ECM (Engine Control Module) to alter camshaft timing to improve power, emission, and performance.

During normal operation, the ECM sends a signal to the OCV to send pressurized motor oil into the camshaft pulley to either advance or delay timing of the camshaft. The VVT verifies the timing change and reports back to the ECM. If the ECM tells the OCV to take some actions and the VVT cannot confirm the expected change, the ECM will throw an error code.

That said, the OCV can fail to alter the camshaft position by:
1. Bad OCV wire or connector - OCV is not receiving power to operate
2. Bad OCV - OCV does not open
3. Bad ECM - ECM does not send proper signal to OCV
4. OCV filter is clogged - OCV opens but oil cannot flow

Or, if the OCV altered the camshaft position, but the VVT fails to confirm it by:
1. Bad VVT wire or connector - Camshaft position changed but VVT does not pick up the change
2. Bad VVT sensor

One way to check that the OCV can actually alter the camshaft rotational position is to apply power directly to the offending OCV, and observe a drop in engine RPM (or possibly stalling the engine). If you observe little or no change in the engine speed/RPM, you should focus your troubleshooting on the ECM, wiring harness, OCV, or the OCV filter. Otherwise, the problem is likely on the VVT sensor side.

Othic

Those repaired wires are for the fuel injectors. The best way to check the OCVs is to get a techstream and perform an active test. Hook up a DVOM and check to see if you have power when you perform the active test. If you do, the control valves are no good.

Othic

By the way P1351 is a VVT Sensor 2 code. I don't think the OCV will operate if the ECU doesn't know what position the cam is in or sees it in a different position than what it should be in like jumped timing.

Othic

Any update on this?

jpcdmd

I took the car back to the indy shop that has worked on it for the last 8 years. I told them what the Toyota dealer said about the repaired wires. They verified that the OCV's were working and repaired the wiring to the VVT sensor bank 2 and the two fuel injectors and the CHECK VSC light went away. Engine runs great now. They didn't charge me for the repair. I'm not sure if they replaced the VVT sensor or not.

Sure beats a whole new wiring harness for $3700.

Arcturus

I'm happy it worked out for you. With big-ticket estimates like this it is always good to get a second opinion. In this case you saved yourself a lot of money!!!

There are certain vehicles where the insulation on the wiring harnesses degrades very quickly and requires total replacement (mid-to-late 90s mercedes), but that is very rare and this vehicle is not one of them. My experiences with dealerships have not been positive - this is another case in point.

garyd

Anyone got a part# for ocv connector ls430?

rkw77080

90980−11162