When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
'01 LS430 250k miles, the Check VSC warning came on with VSC OFF idiot light.
-code 1351 (bank 1 VVT issue) from OBD scan at Autozone
-ordered new OCV's (both bank 1 &2) and installed, parts from ToyoLex Parts Connection
-still getting Check VSC, rescan at Autozone, now getting code 1354 (bank 2)
Took the car to local Toyota dealer to have em look. I thought maybe it just needed a new connector for the bank 2 OCV but they said even with the connector zip-tied to the OCV they were still getting the malfunction. Service tech blames the new OCV, says its sticking open or something, recommends replacing both OCV's. I said no lets just replace bank 2 first.
-Toyota dealer ordered a new OVC from Lexus ($127) and replaced bank 2, now getting the bank 1 code again, not bank 2.
-code seem to be flip-flopping. They said now they're gonna check the timing.
Is the oil changed regularly? Could the OCV,s be getting clogged? I guess if one of the cams jumped time it could cause one to throw a code and not the other but why would it come and go when they replaced an OCV? I would imagine if it jumped time you'd have other codes being thrown though?
The timing belt and all service has been done at recommended intervals (last belt change at 180k). I have maintained this car religiously. Mobil 1 every 5k miles. No real issues other than valve cover gaskets and routine stuff. I've replaced the MAF sensor, coolant temp sensor, and a few other tidbits myself that were easy to do over the years.
Toyota dealer just called me back. They said the engine wiring harness has been tampered with and needs to be replaced for $3700. They said they replaced the bank 2 OCV and Check VSC did not go away and now throwing code 1351 for bank 1. They checked the timing and it is set properly. Their diagnosis is that the cam position sensor wiring has been damaged somehow (both sensors) and the wiring to the right side fuel injectors has been cut and butt-connected at some point. They said this damage to the wiring harness is causing interference and the car doesn't know how to control itself.
This is really upsetting because since the warranty ran out long ago, all service has been performed by an independent toyota/lexus shop. While I don't have any direct evidence they did the damage I do know that I didn't do it and nobody else has worked on the car.
When the dealer initially called me back the service advisor said "what happened in there did an animal get under the hood and chew everything up?"
Well, if it needs replacing it must really be damaged in multiple places. Electrical problems suck but I cant see why they (or an indy) cant just replace a few wires if that's what wrong with it. It would seem that with a decent electrical probe and some time someone could trace back the wiring to a certain point from the sensors and replace the wiring? I just cant see a harness being so damaged (without knowing what happened) that it needs to be replaced?
Well, if it needs replacing it must really be damaged in multiple places. Electrical problems suck but I cant see why they (or an indy) cant just replace a few wires if that's what wrong with it. It would seem that with a decent electrical probe and some time someone could trace back the wiring to a certain point from the sensors and replace the wiring? I just cant see a harness being so damaged (without knowing what happened) that it needs to be replaced?
I asked the Toyota dealer to document the damage. They said over the phone that it was specifically the wires to the two cam position sensors and the four cut fuel injector wires. What sorts of procedures would necessitate cutting the fuel injector connectors off the harness and re-splicing them?
I asked the Toyota dealer to document the damage. They said over the phone that it was specifically the wires to the two cam position sensors and the four cut fuel injector wires. What sorts of procedures would necessitate cutting the fuel injector connectors off the harness and re-splicing them?
I would go there and ask them to show you what this damage is in person. If a few wires are cut then I don't know why they can't fix the connections and call it a day. Mechanics do this all the time. Replacing the entire harness seems extreme as does the 3700 price tag. I would definitely ask them to try and repair the connections and if they refuse go elsewhere for a second opinion.
Got the car home now. Will take pics of the harness tonight. The writeup from the Toyota dealer says "Found P1354 Bank VVTI malfunction replaced vvti control valve now cam control actuator code came back needs engine harness under intake shielded wire was repaired, injector and cam position sensors getting interference because of wire connectors."
Here are pics of the wiring. I can only find 3 repaired wires - forwardmost fuel injectors on both sides, and the bank 2 VVT sensor. No insulation covering the wires.
Bank 2
Bank 1 drivers side
Would simply wrapping the wires in electrical tape do anything? Seems to me that replacing the entire wiring harness is massive overkill.
Seems like big time overkill to replace the harness. Over time those types of connectors do not provide much protection from moisture which then leads to corrosion which then affects resistance, etc. if it were me I'd cut those off and solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing to protect them. It's cheap and easy to do. At the very least I'd cut those off and replace them with the moisture resistant type connectors buy nothing better than solder IMO. You just can't tell by looking at them what's going on inside them. Once cut and not well protected wire ends can corrode and the corrosion works its way down the wire slightly. You get enough corrosion and it will affect the resistance of the wire which could lead to poor performance of the circuit.
Seems like big time overkill to replace the harness. Over time those types of connectors do not provide much protection from moisture which then leads to corrosion which then affects resistance, etc. if it were me I'd cut those off and solder the wires and use heat shrink tubing to protect them. It's cheap and easy to do. At the very least I'd cut those off and replace them with the moisture resistant type connectors buy nothing better than solder IMO. You just can't tell by looking at them what's going on inside them. Once cut and not well protected wire ends can corrode and the corrosion works its way down the wire slightly. You get enough corrosion and it will affect the resistance of the wire which could lead to poor performance of the circuit.
Agreed I think the shop is saying it doesn't know what the problem is and doesn't want to invest anything further. Brewmyown is right, those look like butt connectors, but they have either been left open or are not of the heat-shrink type so moisture can get into them. This is not good. Normally on automotive type crimp connectors (especially in outside applications) they should use shrink tubing butt connectors. An example is here:
You can use a lighter or heat gun to shrink them up.
I seriously doubt electrical interference is the source of this problem unless there is a cut harness and it is arcing on the body somewhere.
If I understand correctly, you now have 1 engine code stored which is the code for the OCV on bank 1? I would compare the wiring harness on both sides and see if you can find any nicks or cuts on the harness for bank 1. Also examine the plug and pins to see if you can see any corrosion or anything out of line.
Is the battery new on this car? Sometimes an old battery can created odd electrical problems like this that don't make sense.
Finally, there is a procedure to troubleshoot the OCV valves. Perhaps rkw77080 could post this here and step you through it.
Just the electrical connector (from the engine wiring harness) that plugs into each.
Now see! This is the reason why i asked if it was any wiring associated with this. I had a similar situation dealing with my 02 sensor. Could not get the code to go away for the life of me after replacing the sensor, manifold gasket and exhaust y-pipe. Took it to the dealer were they showed me the harness and wires running from the sensor to inside the car that leads to the ECU were broken and frayed. I replaced the 02 sensor myself and don't recall damaging the wires not one bit but all of a sudden they are broken? . Needless to say, $900 later the car was fixed. It was hard to argue the point because i really needed my car fixed for emissions and i was fed up trying to figure out what was the problem. Your situation sounds awful similar to mine.
12-01-15, 12:34 PM
Check VSC/VSC OFF issue
. Needless to say, $900 later the car was fixed. It was hard to argue the point because i really needed my car fixed for emissions and i was fed up trying to figure out what was the problem. Your situation sounds awful similar to mine.
