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You're right. Dual voice-cone is designed to accept two signal pairs (positive and negative), one for the right side, another for the left.
The Pioneer TS-SW841D is not dual voice-cone design, even though the positive and negative signal terminals are located 180 degrees apart as shown below.
For your car, you will need either a 16-ohms single-voice-cone woofer with one set of + and - terminals, or a 8-ohms dual-voice-cone woofer with 2 sets of + and - terminals. For the dual-voice-cone speaker, you will have to wire it in series to get the proper resistance.
Thanks RKW........thanks for taking the time to perfectly dummy that down to a place that I could understand. I now know how to wire in series and what ohms my sub needs to be to work w my amp..........mission of this post complete!
Next mission is to pick a sub.......and get my amp repaired.....
RKW....u have guided me this far....my guess is that the Polk will do just fine for me....or is there a 16ohm that I should look at. I am 50yrs old....I no longer jam Boston, The rolling Stones, or Bad Co....But I do like crisp clean audio.
If I go with the Polk it looks like I could get out of this mess all for under $600 including the amp repair.
The "Polk Audio db840DVC 8-Inch Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer" I used in Post #14 as an example was rated for 4 ohms. So wiring this speaker in series will yield only 8 ohms, which is still too low for your amp.
There are 2 things that are important here - Frequency response range and electrical resistance. Look for speakers that are classified as "subwoofer" will ensure that you have the correct frequency range. Secondly, selecting a speaker with enough electrical resistance will prevent your amplifier from putting out too much power which causes overheating/burnout. Typically, speaker resistances come in 2, 4, 8, and 16 ohms. 14.5 ohms speakers are rare, so the next best thing is to use a 16 ohms speaker. You have 2 options:
1. Find a single voice cone 16 ohms SUBWOOFER, such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-C-8PS21-16...-/321544480824 or,
2. Find a dual-voice-cone (DVC) 8 ohms SUBWOOFER and wire it in series as we discussed previously. Go to eBay and search for something like - 8" DVC subwoofer 8-ohm
In other words, make sure you're buy a SUBWOOFER, and the one you pick has enough resistance. It goes without saying that physical dimensions should be considered. Other than being 8", also make sure you have enough room to accommodate the height of the speaker.
RK....take me to the promise land......I am not lazy but I am incapable of finding such a diamond in the rough.........audio is second nature for you.........can u throw me a link to a sub that u would recommend?
RK....take me to the promise land......I am not lazy but I am incapable of finding such a diamond in the rough.........audio is second nature for you.........can u throw me a link to a sub that u would recommend?
Lets finish the race
I'm sorry, but I just can't read your run on sentence structure. Woiuldn't it be easier to just use one period and then capatilize the next sentence? That's what our minds have been wired to since the begining of being taught proper english.
I appreciate your input and involvement, but I just can't enjoy reading your structure.
If you going with an OEM amp I would go with an OEM sub. Why not find a cheap used one and just have it re-coned. The re-conning kit is only $20 on eBay. They also pop up on eBay for a decent price here and there. I think I paid about $220 but I could of easily had it re-coned instead. I was just lazy.
I agree with Lavrishevo here but if you are already going through the expense of a new amp, why not just go for the extra dollars for a new OEM speaker? Yes it is expensive, but at least you will have peace of mind, less leg work, while getting the job done right the first time. Sometimes trying to save the extra bucks is just not worth the effort but that's your decision. Good luck.
If you going with an OEM amp I would go with an OEM sub. Why not find a cheap used one and just have it re-coned. The re-conning kit is only $20 on eBay. They also pop up on eBay for a decent price here and there. I think I paid about $220 but I could of easily had it re-coned instead. I was just lazy.
Originally Posted by Bocatrip
I agree with Lavrishevo here but if you are already going through the expense of a new amp, why not just go for the extra dollars for a new OEM speaker? Yes it is expensive, but at least you will have peace of mind, less leg work, while getting the job done right the first time. Sometimes trying to save the extra bucks is just not worth the effort but that's your decision. Good luck.
I’m in agreement with Lavrishevo and bocatrip on this one...
We have gone through a lot of trouble just to match the electrical characteristics and physical fitment for a compatible replacement speaker. We have not begun to consider power/wattage rating and other sound quality issues such as frequency range matching with other speakers, power/volume distribution, acoustics characteristic, clarity, etc.
I’m not sure the sacrifice in quality is worth the saving in the long run.
I would say if you have no knowledge of car audio then yes the easy way out would be to just use OEM.
And that is why I sent all 4 of my door speakers and my sub out for refoaming. The factory does a lot better job than me when it comes to this stuff. I'm a Beach Boys fanatic and this is a hell of a big step up from a little speaker in the center of the dash on my 63 split window. God I loved that car.
All....thank you for your input and for being able to read past my way of writing. I have been told many times how much it annoys people.
I agree with all........it is just very hard to find a used OEM sub. Lav I checked out your website and believe I found one for $85.00 which I would jump all over but they are closed right now so i will have to check back in the morning. Cant find any used on Ebay....So to answer the question why not go w a new sub.....they are $300 bucks not just a couple of extra bucks. The amp repair is $450 thats gunna hurt bad enough and like I mentioned before, I am coming off of a $300 tsb repair and a $150 tail light....times are tight! I have two other toys that love my wallet too. Note I used a comma last sentence
If anyone else knows where I can source an OEM sub please let me know. I finally removed the sub from my car. So simple looking back but always afraid that I was going to break something.
there is another one on ebay that is a pioneer but the link I included notes Mark Levinson so I assume thats all me. Since mine was replaced I never saw the OEM in my car.
10-24-15, 08:00 PM
