Don't forget to check your coolant level and test for electrolysis
06-24-15, 06:59 PM
#31
Lexus Test Driver
Good reminder Lav......first time I have checked mine....I did have timing belt and water pump done only 3k miles a go.......but my over flow appears to be bone dry. Not sure if tech left me hangin or what.....but she is going into the stealer for some fresh oil....will have them test my coolant while she is there
06-27-15, 08:54 AM
#32
Lexus Test Driver
Hey....kind of a dumb question here but here it goes......so I checked my overflow and it was bone dry.......when I pop the cap there is like a divider flap inside the reservoir......I assume when I top off I just pour in and not worry about this divider flap....correct? I checked my receipt from the dealer when water pump and TB was done.....qty 2 super life......I will assume that means 2 gallons of new coolant.......so my guess is that the tech may not have run the car after filling the coolant....or just forgot to re fill the over flow.........From reading this thread I will just top off with the super red stuff and keep and eye on it.....
06-27-15, 09:39 AM
#33
I would wait until the vehicle is cold. Take the radiator cap off and first fill the radiator itself until full. Then fill the reservoir until full. Make sure you are not pouring concentrated Toyota red directly in without mixing it yourself 50 / 50 with ideally distilled water. Or just use filtered water if you have a Pure or Britta filter. Do NOT put in just distilled or deionized water alone. This water is corrosive to the metal components without antifreeze added. Also, if the radiator cap has never been replaced would not hurt to grab a new one when you can. They are about $7.
07-06-15, 06:37 PM
#36
Lexus Test Driver
Finally got my super long life pink stuff.....its premixed 50 /50 say dont add water....cost $26 freakin dollars at the stealer. Filled up my bone dry reservoir.........cleaned up the possible leak area....will keep an eye on it now.......good reminder LAV.....thanks!!!!
ps....I used the pink stuff because thats what they put in when they did my timing belt service.....
ps....I used the pink stuff because thats what they put in when they did my timing belt service.....
07-07-15, 04:47 AM
#38
I picked up an OE cap as the price was cheap and I trust the quality. I actually replaced my gas cap at the same time. Why? Just because. 
Speaking of radiators, jpv did you check your to see if it was low as well? Fill up the radiator first and then the reservoir?
Also, for those that need coolant I recommend buying the concentrated version so you are not paying for half water. A gallon of distilled water is only like a $1 at your local grocery store.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SL...mdL&ref=plSrch
Another note. I believe in the 430 Lexus switched to pink super long life vs red long life starting in 2002 but I don't see pink available in the concentrated form just premixed. I think I may just use red anyway because I plan on flushing every 40k miles to avoid electrolysis breakdown.
Speaking of radiators, jpv did you check your to see if it was low as well? Fill up the radiator first and then the reservoir?
Also, for those that need coolant I recommend buying the concentrated version so you are not paying for half water. A gallon of distilled water is only like a $1 at your local grocery store.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SL...mdL&ref=plSrch
Another note. I believe in the 430 Lexus switched to pink super long life vs red long life starting in 2002 but I don't see pink available in the concentrated form just premixed. I think I may just use red anyway because I plan on flushing every 40k miles to avoid electrolysis breakdown.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 07-07-15 at 05:55 AM.
07-07-15, 02:36 PM
#40
I am now measuring 0.00 voltage. Whoohoo. 
Looks like 40 - 50 thousand miles is the ideal time to refresh your coolant. At least in my vehicle. This makes logical sense. Electrolysis breaks down the coolant making it left effective at cooling the engine and also promotes metal decay. Staying on top of you coolant condition will help extend the life of your whole cooling system especially the radiator.
If others would not mind testing their coolant as well for some baseline info this would be helpful.
Campisi was getting 0.47 at 91k miles
I was getting 0.30 - 0.38 at 49k miles
.30 is the cut off point to change your coolant.
Looks like 40 - 50 thousand miles is the ideal time to refresh your coolant. At least in my vehicle. This makes logical sense. Electrolysis breaks down the coolant making it left effective at cooling the engine and also promotes metal decay. Staying on top of you coolant condition will help extend the life of your whole cooling system especially the radiator.If others would not mind testing their coolant as well for some baseline info this would be helpful.
Campisi was getting 0.47 at 91k miles
I was getting 0.30 - 0.38 at 49k miles
.30 is the cut off point to change your coolant.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 07-07-15 at 06:05 PM.
07-07-15, 04:26 PM
#41
Zerex makes a product for Asian cars. A gallon is about $15 on Amazon. I also believe it might be sold at NAPA stores and Walmart. I have only used it to fill the recovery tank on my Toyota and Lexus LS but it would work for a flush and fill. Zerex 675130 for Asian cars. Labeling on the package matches the specs on the Toyota website. See the reviews on Amazon for more details.
07-07-15, 06:03 PM
#42
Also, just so everyone understands what we are measuring is the chemical electrolysis not so much the one caused by a bad ground. Although, this is of course good to take care of as well if it's an issue.
There are two types of electrolysis: a chemical type and an electrical type. The chemical type is a natural result of coolant (electrolyte solution) flowing through a system composed of different types of metals (iron, copper, or brass). The coolant acts as the conductor through which small amounts of current are transferred between metals in the cooling system. Over time, this very small amount of current (less than 0.3 volts) can cause damage to metal surfaces (especially aluminum). Given enough time, electrolysis will cause a leak to develop. The electrical type is much more destructive and is caused by faulty electrical components that deliver a stray current (over 0.3 volts) through the cooling system. This may be caused by a faulty ground or a wire shortage near the cooling system. The installation of aftermarket electronics, even factory equipment, can cause this type of electrolysis. The stray current introduced into a cooling system this way can be strong enough to cause severe damage quickly. The only way to prevent damage from this type of electrolysis is to mechanically correct this problem at the source. Troubleshooting can be done with all systems on (AC, radio, etc.) and they can be shut off one by one shut to locate the culprit.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 07-07-15 at 06:09 PM.
07-10-15, 04:25 PM
#43
Lexus Test Driver
Hey Lav.....I rec my temp sensor in the mail......threads are bare.......What should I apply to threads prior to install?
I did check my radiator prior to filling res.....it was full of the pink stuff....still fresh w 3k miles on it from the timing belt service..../ water pump
My Lexus dealer only had pink in premixed......I agree it was kinda nuts paying so much for half water....but its done.
OEM air filter also arrived in mail........will install temp sensor and air filter to see if performance change.
I did check my radiator prior to filling res.....it was full of the pink stuff....still fresh w 3k miles on it from the timing belt service..../ water pump
My Lexus dealer only had pink in premixed......I agree it was kinda nuts paying so much for half water....but its done.
OEM air filter also arrived in mail........will install temp sensor and air filter to see if performance change.
07-10-15, 06:57 PM
#44
I don't know exactly jpv. I wonder why yours did not come with anything on the threads. Did it come with a new washer? I would think a little rtv sealant would work fine. Personally, I would call your local Lexus or Toyota dealer tomorrow morning and find out what they use. Some sensors don't use any thread sealant as the threads act as a ground. I don't want to direct you since I don't know for sure. Let us know what you find out and how she runs after replacing the sensor.
Edit: I guess I did not remember correctly. Mine did not have any sealant and I did not put any on. With the new washer sealant is not necessary I guess. When you pull old one out probably won't see anything on the threads either.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...re-sensor.html
Edit: I guess I did not remember correctly. Mine did not have any sealant and I did not put any on. With the new washer sealant is not necessary I guess. When you pull old one out probably won't see anything on the threads either.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...re-sensor.html
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 07-10-15 at 07:03 PM.
07-10-15, 07:06 PM
#45
Lexus Test Driver
that is def odd......and I bought this part from a Lexus dealer on line........no sealant and no washer. Unfortunately here in northern va......being able to obtain that kind of info from a dealer is very difficult if you are not having any work done on your car.........my only option will be to call the dealer I bought the part from on line. I will report back.