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How often is it recommended that you change the coolant? I believe mine has Toyota red from the last TB/WP job done at the dealer. Or maybe it is pink. I honestly don't know for sure. Looks more red then pink.
Coolant is first changed at 36 months / 48000km, then every 24 months or 24000kms after, whichever comes first. Coolant and brake fluid I change based on time and distance. ATF, engine oil, engine air filter, and differential oil I change based on distance only.
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PRODUCT GENERAL INFORMATION
P0004-02
Title:
ENGINE COOLANT COLOR CHANGE
Models:
'02 ES 300, GS 430/300. IS 300, LS 430, LX 470, RX300 & SC430
March 22, 2002
A new pink colored LLC is being phased into production for all 2002 Lexus models.
The color change does not affect the maintenance procedures or intervals established for the red coolant. The new pink coolant is 100% compatible with the current red coolant and red coolant can be used to replace, top off, or mix in with the pink coolant with no adverse effects.
Applicable Vehicles
2002 model year ES 300, GS 430/300, IS 300, LS 430, LX 470, RX 300 & SC 430 vehicles.
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That service schedule seems really excessive in my opinion, like it was written purely for the benefit of Canadian Lexus dealers.
Flushing you coolant every 15k miles?
What I've heard is if you have the pink coolant you're good for 100k miles and the old red style is 30k miles. I just do it when the timing belt needs replacing since it has to be dumped out anyway. I guess if you really wanted to be gung ho you could change the pink coolant every 50k miles, but long life coolant has been around for a while and I haven't heard about any issues (except when GM tried it with DexCool)
You can do tests to see how much life is left, another one is where you have the vial with floating *****. It's inexpensive.
I was looking at those coolant testers too. They show you the boiling and freezing point of the coolant if I am correct. This helps determine the mix ratio. Anyone else willing to do the electrolysis test as well?
So, this is interesting. I performed the test on my car and with the car off I am getting 0.1 volts which is great. With the car on it was ranging from 0.4 to 0.2 volts depending on where I move the lead in the coolant reservoir tank. Not in the radiator directly .3 volts is the sign to change the coolant from what I am reading. If anyone else wold like to try this test it would be helpful for reference.
My coolant currently has 42,000 miles on it right now. I am thinking between 40k and 50k might be ideal to flush and change the coolant.
My understanding is if the test shows an increase while the car and/or accessories are running vs when the car is off, that points more to a potential grounding issue than it does a coolant issue.
So if you're getting .1 volts with the car off, I'm thinking it's NOT a problem with you coolant turning acidic.
My understanding is if the test shows an increase while the car and/or accessories are running vs when the car is off, that points more to a potential grounding issue than it does a coolant issue.
So if you're getting .1 volts with the car off, I'm thinking it's NOT a problem with you coolant turning acidic.
My understanding is that there is a certain amount of electrical discharge through the engine and out via the grounds. This is normal. The test is not really to test for bad grounds but for the amount of metal content building up in the coolant. Metal content in the fluid acts as sandpaper and progressively damages cooling system components, particularly the radiator. As more metal content builds up the more electrical discharge ends up passing through the coolant due to this metal content. By measuring the voltage passing through the coolant you get an idea of the anount of metal content and whether you should change the fluid. You need to measure with the car on because with it off the alternator is not powering the engine and accessories.
My understanding is that there is a certain amount of electrical discharge through the engine and out via the grounds. This is normal. The test is not really to test for bad grounds but for the amount of metal content building up in the coolant. Metal content in the fluid acts as sandpaper and progressively damages cooling system components, particularly the radiator. As more metal content builds up the more electrical discharge ends up passing through the coolant due to this metal content. By measuring the voltage passing through the coolant you get an idea of the anount of metal content and whether you should change the fluid. You need to measure with the car on because with it off the alternator is not powering the engine and accessories.
No, actually the main point of testing the coolant that way is to find potential grounding issues. That what can eat through radiators really quickly.
You could pour 100% fresh fluid in there and have the same exact readings if there was a bad ground connection somewhere and it would also eat through a radiator in a short time.
A better way to isolate testing just the coolant would be something like a test strip that measures PH.
Usually the "big" problems people have with electrolysis eating away of components is a result of a poor ground connection somewhere.
"Electrolysis – Electrolysis is the systematic removal of the protective layer on the inside of the radiator tubes due to improper grounding. Electrical grounding problems can stem from poor installation of aftermarket accessories or incorrect vehicle collision damages."
I see what you mean. I guess I was misunderstanding the procedure. Maybe I will just get some test strips instead.
Ok, from your link.
Voltage of zero to .3 is normal in a coolant of cast iron engine. Such an engine will be destroyed with time by .5 volts, and engine manufactures are reporting .15 volts will destroy an aluminum engine.
We have an iron block right?
It did mention this too:
Always change the coolant if a current is detected. The electrical current will destroy the protecting chemicals in a properly inhibited coolant.
Never mind, we have an aluminum block. So the question is, if I am getting between .2 and .4 volts at idle (AC was on) do I have a grounding problem and should I change the coolant?
It is a simple measurement, a digital VOM is needed, simply attach one lead to the negative battery post, and with the other, dip it in the coolant. Should read zero right? Maybe just a bad ground? Try this, remove a battery post. Still reading .3v or above? It's not a loose ground your after.... You better keep reading.
Never mind, we have an aluminum block. So the question is, if I am getting between .2 and .4 volts at idle (AC was on) do I have a grounding problem and should I change the coolant?
I personally don't think you have an issue with either. FYI, that link in the earlier post is selling all sorts of products that deal with electrolysis, so I would be somewhat skeptical.
I would say I'm 99% certain it's not a coolant issue if we're just going off the .1 volts you measured with the car turned off.
If it's floating in the .2 to .4 range while idiling with accessories on, I don't think I would be concerned.
You can pull fuses and see if certain accessories being disconnected makes a difference, You could also add a grounding kit.
Again, I don't think though you have an issue but I'm not an expert on the issue and there's a lot of different opinions with where you should be concerned.
Usually if you have a bad ground, it's going to be much more obvious, not right on the edge.
I gave San Carlos Radiator (article referenced) a call and spoke to them. They basically said that if I get consistently over .3 volts car on or off that the fluid is becoming acidic and to go ahead and change the fluid. PH levels can still be good but electrolysis is breaking down the fluid and radiator. They also say to not use distilled water but regularly water and Toyota Red concentrate. But he did say the whole distilled vs regular is an ongoing debate. He did not think it was a grounding problem. More due to age of the radiator and fluid. He mentioned how readings can vary based on temperature as well. Anyway, I will play around with testing it some more under different conditions. My goal to protect the radiator until my next TB/WP job which is not due for another 60k miles. At this point I was planning on replacing it anyway. Really interesting to learn about this stuff.
I gave San Carlos Radiator (article referenced) a call and spoke to them. They basically said that if I get consistently over .3 volts that the fluid is becoming acidic and to go ahead and change the fluid. PH levels can still be good but electrolysis is breaking down the fluid and radiator. They also say to not use distilled water but regularly water and Toyota Red concentrate. He did not think it was a grounding problem. More due to age of the radiator and fluid. He mentioned how reading can vary based on temperature. Anyway, I will play around with testing it somw more under different conditions. My goal to protect the radiator until my next TB/WP job which is not due for another 60k miles. At this point I was planning on replacing it anyway. Really interesting to learn about this stuff.
Everyone has different opinions, but I personally think that's bad advice, especially the part about using tap water.
But there's nothing wrong with changing fluids early, just don't think it's necessary for what your experiencing, but best of luck
The argument is interesting. I think I would still use distilled water.
The coolant fluid used in most internal combustion engines is typically a mixture of glycol (for freeze protection), a pH buffer, corrosion inhibitors and water.
Using distilled or deionized water in the solution is preferred because deposit forming minerals (usually calcium and magnesium compounds, a/k/a "hardness") and corrosive ions (such as chloride and sulfate) are eliminated. However, distilled or deionized water should not be used as the sole ingredient of the cooling fluid as these are corrosive to many metals commonly used in engines including ferrous metals (iron and steel) and cuprous metals (copper, brass, and bronze).
Depending on the source, "tap" water might be usable. In several areas, municipal source water from surface reservoirs (such as Lake Michigan) has relatively low ion concentration. Although not preferable to using distilled or deionized water, using tap water with total hardness less than 50 mg/l and chloride and sulfate concentrations less than 25 mg/l can usually be done without forming mineral deposits or significantly contributing to corrosion. (Most municipalities now post water quality analyses on the internet.)
Regardless of what water is used, it is important to use a glycol-based product made for the application that includes corrosion inhibitors and a pH buffer. A key point is to get a product that is "made for the application". For example, using a product that is made for use in a building heating or cooling system (which typically contains an alkaline buffer to maintain the pH in the 9.0 - 10.0 range) in an engine with aluminum components will corrode the aluminum.
Larishevo - I've never heard of the electrolysis thing for coolant before but I figured I might be a good test dummy (since I've been a negligent on maintaining my LS), so I did this measurement for you. Now, I've never changed the coolant in my LS and I've owned it since it was new ( '03, 91K miles on the odometer). I'll be doing the TB and associated components in a week so the coolant and related components will be changed then.
I measured 0.47V with the car not running. Didn't bother measuring with the car running. FYI I have a 2013 Nissan Xterra with 9000 miles on the clock that I measured 0.07V with engine not running.
I'm getting .3 and I am going to go ahead and flush mine soon too. I do believe this helps extend the life of the radiator. I want to get mine to last until about 200k when I do my 2nd TB/WP job.
I'm getting .3 and I am going to go ahead and flush mine soon too. I do believe this helps extend the life of the radiator. I want to get mine to last until about 200k when I do my 2nd TB/WP job.
I saw an electrolysis test being demonstrated and performed on Motorweek a few months ago during the diy/car maintenance section of the program. The mechanic was testing the conductivity of the coolant with excess conductivity being a sign the coolant was breaking down. I do not remember the test values involved. I really dislike the Motorweek TV show especially the orange colored simpering donkey that is the show's host, but I find myself recording and watching it anyway.
06-18-15, 06:28 PM
