10" sub and 6.5" coaxial in the doors
#1
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10" sub and 6.5" coaxial in the doors
What's happening everyone! My 2001 430 UL w/ML system has two blown speakers. The 8" sub and the front driver door speaker. Wanted to replace the sub with a 10" and another amp for that and 6.5" I want to put in the rear doors. Any suggestions?
#2
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the OEM speakers in my 06 ML systerm were 6" speakers, i had replaced them with 6.5" PRV speakers, Pioneer tweeters, crossover and ran the connections to a pioneer amp in the trunk. I have a 12" JL sub thats in a ported box in the trunk, didnt bother with the OEM sub since it would take a bit of sound deadening to cover the rear deck.
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If you were able to pull the rear glass, I think you would be able to cut the sheet metal to accept a 10" driver. Any cutting tool runs the risk of vibrating into the rear glass and I could easily see that shattering on you.
I replaced all 4 door speakers with db6501 from the Polk DB series, they are 6.5" coax. I used the db840DVC to replace the sub in the rear deck. It's an 8" dual voice coil that I have wired in series to be an 8 ohm load to the factory amp.
The sub hits hard enough that you can't turn the volume up all the way. If/when I work on the rear air suspension I'm going to go back into the rear deck and throw some more sound deadening in there. But for now it sounds great.
Good luck!
I replaced all 4 door speakers with db6501 from the Polk DB series, they are 6.5" coax. I used the db840DVC to replace the sub in the rear deck. It's an 8" dual voice coil that I have wired in series to be an 8 ohm load to the factory amp.
The sub hits hard enough that you can't turn the volume up all the way. If/when I work on the rear air suspension I'm going to go back into the rear deck and throw some more sound deadening in there. But for now it sounds great.
Good luck!
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Personally they weren't too bad, the door panels aren't super hard to remove. Just take your time. I used adapter plates from the store and cut up strips of sound deadening material and covered the gap in between the speaker and the door panel so it is sealed from front to back of the air space. The amp is crossed over so you won't get much for highs from your doors, the dash speakers cover most of the highs. The doors do kick pretty good when you turn it up.
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An easy fix for the sub if the surround is disconnected is to run a bead of RTV above the surround where the basket meets. You can get a pretty solid bead in there and it will work well. The issue I had is that the RTV didn't provide enough resistance to the voice coil and I could hear it bottom out at times. I had already done the doors and figured the sub couldn't be that hard, and it isn't. The seat is more of a pain than anything else.
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#10
Amazon compatibility chart says SAT 6 won't work with 460's. Think I'm going to bite the bullet and take the front and rear door apart and see what's in it. Out of the whole shooting match, I have ONE speaker in the car that's working. . That's the reason for my hurry.
Last edited by andys57; 02-27-15 at 07:59 AM. Reason: spelling
#13
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01-03 with ML has 6.5" speakers in the front doors. Most aftermarket 6.5" speakers will bolt in to the stock location without modification. The rear doors on the 01-03 with ML have a 4" mid and 1" tweeter in the door mounted in the same location. You would need an adapter here if you wanted to run a 6.5" speaker. 04-06 has 6.5" speakers and a 1" tweeter in separate locations in the rear door and you can swap out the 6.5" similar to the fronts pretty easily.