armymp1983

I have a 06 Ls430 with 93k miles. I tried to start the car and it gives just a clicking sound. I am able to jump start it and get it to run and do some laps around the block. My Check engine ligh and VSC lights are on. I took it to Autozone and they said "it might be the alternator". They didn't instill confidence in me. I hooked the battery up for 6-8 hours on a charger and am able to fire it up. But overnight the battery dies. I have checked for a light on inside of the car and that all doors are secured. I even put my wife in the trunk to make sure the trunk lights are going out. Any ideas fellas? I am hoping this is a common issue. Thanks in advance.

Harley

rkw77080

VSC stands for Vehicle Stability Control, and has nothing to do with the battery. Regarding the check engine light, your car's computer has detected a problem and has recorded one or more error codes. Did AutoZone hook up a OBD-II code reader to your car when you tell them about the check engine light? Which error code did they get that suggested alternator problem?
On the surface, it sounded like your battery is failing. Typically if the battery is charged up, it should not die overnight if there is no load. You can try this... Charge up the battery again and leave the negative cable off overnight. Tomorrow, re-install the negative cable and see if it has enough charge left to start your car. How old is your battery?

DavidinCT

Yea, sounds like battery or alternator.... I have seen the clicking sound when the battery is just too dead to start the car.

I had this problem about 2 weeks ago, it was fine, someone who was working on my car killed the battery, from there, I would need a jump to start the car and it would run fine till I shut it off, then trying to start it, it would just clicking sound.

I replaced the battery and no more problems starts perfectly. If you have never replaced the battery before, I would pull it, and bring it to someplace to have it tested, this can confirm this 100%...

With the miles on the car and if it's never been replaced, it might just be time to replace it...

BTW, love the fact that you locked the wife in the trunk to check it.... I got a LOL out of that one...

Gene01

You can peek unless you have a UL. It has no passthru because the space is occupied by the rear air conditioner.

mikevanle

iTrader: (1)

One way to check the alternator:
-Get the car started
-Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
-If the car is still able to run for some time, then the alternator is working fine to keep the electronics running

As for the battery, it's a relatively cheap check. If the battery has never been changed, it's recommended to change anyways. Living in cold weather, it's a plus on those mornings.

Jabberwock

Like the battery is your problem. Given your issues, if your battery is more than 2 years old suggest you replace it. Take the car to Walmart or Costco and ask them to install a new battery. Both carry high quality relatively inexpensive batteries that are a great value. Make sure that you insist they install a new battery that has a build sticker date code of no older than 3 months old. If they refuse to install a fresh battery for you take your biz elsewhere.

chunkyda

See this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...-ls-430-a.html

From that thread which includes pictures, here is the procedure to check voltage right on your LCD screen if you have one:
Press and hold the OPTION hard button and hold down while the car is running or not. Turn the parking lights on and off 3 times and wonder of wonders the menu pops up. Push MENU, "Display Check", then "vehicle signal check" to bring up the mode that reports battery voltage as shown in the last photo below. There are a bunch of other things you can check for dash switches, display colors, radio and XM stuff. I didn't spend much time messing with anything other than read the voltage and watch it while varying RPM. Car not running mine reported 12.2 V and running reports 13.6-13.7 V. This now reads 14.0 volts with the rebuilt alternator.

armymp1983

I did the above listed check and the display is showing 14.1 volts up to 14.3 volts. Alternator i guess. Battery is dated 1/2013. I just bought the car about 7 months ago. unfortunately i have a $500 deductible.

DavidinCT

You can always call around at some smaller shops, In my 2001 I had one go, and it cost about $200 for a rebuilt one installed...

This was 3 years ago, no problems...Might be a good option as it would cost a lot less than your deductible.

I would call a few places and see what they say...

armymp1983

I ordered one through autozone. $127.99 Duralast import alternator. Lifetime warranty. Hopefully i can get the shop to install it on friday.

StanVanDam

Before buying a new battery, I would have borrowed/bought a battery charger that has a vehicle start mode, alternator test mode, and voltage readout. A battery manufactured in January 2013 is practically brand new.

First, the charger will tell you the current charge of the battery. Basically, if it reads under 12V, your options are 1) your alternator is bad, assuming you don't do a lot of short drives that prevents your alternator from charging your battery sufficiently, or 2) you have an electrical leak, or 3) your battery was drained a few times and permanently lost the ability to hold a full charge

Second, use the vehicle start mode to try to start the car. 1) If the car starts, this rules out a problem with the starter, fuel system, engine controls, crank and cam sensors, etc. Then you switch the charger to alternator test mode and verify that charging is occurring. 2) If the car doesn't start, the battery isn't your problem and you need to start looking elsewhere.

Last, you don't need a shop to install a battery. Undo the retaining clamp (without dropping the screw), undo negative terminal, then positive, pull the battery out, install new one, doing those steps in reverse and applying a liberal amount of dielectric grease to both battery posts. It's a 5 minute job.

zapola6

Don’t discount loose, dirty or poorly contacting battery cables.

The other day I had a little surface corrosion on the terminals, used battery terminal cleaner, sprayed on, 15 minutes later lightly rinsed off with water. Perfectly clean. It's a 2001 with 185,000 miles.

Went to start an hour later…. CLICK…. Put it on the charger for 20 minutes, it started with a struggle. Tried to start it again after running for 10 minutes with no charger, CLICK… Battery is only 2 years old on a 72 month battery. Checked battery voltage with multi-meter, good @ 12 plus volts, no nav.

Everything worked, tilt, mirrors, radio, windows, however head lights would not power up, just heard a relay click. That sent me down the good connection path. After scratching my head and a$$ for a few minutes, I loosened up the negative battery terminal twisted for good contact and tighten back up. It started like it always had, hasn’t missed a beat since. Also did the positive for grins. Checked the alternator with multi-meter, putting out 14.0 volts.

It could have been the cleaner or the water, bottom line, negative battery terminal had poor connection at the battery. I could have taken terminals off the battery and cleaned with battery tool, I just didn’t want to lose radio preset and gas mileage info, besides it was getting late and momma was a callen.

Good Luck, please keep us posted.....