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The step I do not understand is step 20 where it says to align the suspension support stud at 30 degrees??
This step is to properly align the top (3 bolts) and the bottom (1 stud). Please note that the coil spring will fix the relative rotational positions between the the top mounting bolts and the bottom stud. If you're reusing the existing top mount and the rubber isolator, all you need to do is to line up the tip of the coil spring with the indentation on the rubber isolator, and everything will line up properly. In my installation I kept the existing coil spring but decided to replace the top mount and rubber isolator. So I transfer the location of the spring's upper tip onto the new mount. Please take a look at Post #7 (Step 8) and Post #8 (Step 9) for more detail.
Just wanted to make a note for anyone reading this install.
I spent some time today removing the rear seat to access the rear tray to get to the tops of the rear struts.
Each headrest has a black plug behind it in which you pull out to access a 12mm bolt. Then fold down the center console where you will find another 12mm bolt.
Then I removed the seat bottom by pulling up on each side and the middle to relase the 3 tabs holding the bottom in, Undo the heater plugs.
Once the bottom is out you can access the bolts that are holding the seatbacks in place. There should be 4 of these that are 10-12mm bolts.
From there you can completely fold down the seatbacks to get to the rear tray. The rear tray is held down by 2 plastic push pins. Pull these out.
This is the step i didnt see RKW mention but you must pull out the rear subwoofer cover. it is held in place with 4 push pins. Just pull straight up on each side and it will come out.
Once this is done you can pull the rear tray up enough to have full access to the strut mounts.
nice job, this is way more involved than my Maxima, which I diy'd (btw had access to a lift back then). At what mileage does everyone replace? I did my Maxima at 200k, and oddly, and disappointingly, and counter-intuitively, the ride was worse after I did the 4 struts, and I used KYB. That had a rear beam axle. I guess the more complicated the suspension setup, the more involved....I don't think I'm going to DIY this car on the suspension...
nice job, this is way more involved than my Maxima, which I diy'd (btw had access to a lift back then). At what mileage does everyone replace? I did my Maxima at 200k, and oddly, and disappointingly, and counter-intuitively, the ride was worse after I did the 4 struts, and I used KYB. That had a rear beam axle. I guess the more complicated the suspension setup, the more involved....I don't think I'm going to DIY this car on the suspension...
My rear struts blew at 95k miles. Some get 150k out of them. All depends on where and how the car was driven. I went oem lexus sport kybs as i saw posts of the non oem kybs blowing seals and such with negative reviews. I removed my rear seat and supplied all parts and shop did the rear suspension for 180.00 in labor. Well worth not having to compress springs with car on jack stands in the driveway. If you do a search i had a post with all the part numbers and such on there.
Helpful thread, rkw. Thanks. Here's my experience on one of my '06's.
I wanted to follow the Lexus manual procedures as you did on your 2nd rear axle strut, but dropping the axle carrier at the ball joint to remove the shock strut was a non-starter for me. The ball joint separators available at Autozone and O'Reilly's didn't work. The jaw opening wasn't wide enough (as other posters experienced and posted above). I combined your post # 6 with bremy's post # 24, squeezing the strut spring to remove the lower shock mount off the stud on the rear axle carrier. No cutting of the wheel well was necessary. Used the same strut spring compressor tool shown in post #s 6 and 24. It fit into the shock/strut tower. Used a bottle jack under the shock to push the strut up a couple inches to line up with and slide onto the stud on the rear axle carrier. Very easy. No jumping on the axle carrier needed. Probably overall easier, faster and safer for the DIY'er too, especially since the spring must be squeezed anyway to remove the shock, with no risk to the ball joint.
There are unique components that fail on the 04 - 06 LS that don't fail on the 01 - 03. My 01 with 292K on the clock has the original shock/struts at all 4 corners ... No leaks, no body roll, no bounce.
Ok, an update with a few more pictures and some info for the next guy or gal who does this. I used the KYB shocks and found this to be very easy. One member suggested using a 2x4 against the shock body to knock it out. I did this and it came out easily without having to undo the ball joint or compress the spring with the assembly still mounted to the vehicle. Doing it in this manner though makes reassembly a bit of a challenge when you are trying to get the lower portion of the shock onto the mounting bolt. Even if you step on the rotor and press down, you'll still have a challenge to set it fully in place. If you have a solid pry bar, it's pretty doable. Overall, I'm really glad I did this myself for the $216 the shocks cost from Amazon. I already had a Blue Point spring compressor and the other necessary tools.
A few light taps with a deadblow hammer was all it took...
A good bench vise comes in handy...
Seal was shot, though the shock still seemed fine. When fully compressed, it would rebound.
No Harbor Freight here...
Cleaned up the spring and I also used some 303 Aerospace on the rubber cover.
My son helped me and I think he actually enjoyed it!
This is a great thread for rear shock replacement. For anyone considering this, this is a very doable repair and you can save a ton of money by doing it yourself. My indy Lexus garage quoted $1k to do it, about half of which was OEM shocks. The KYBs are pretty much equivalent to the OEMs, so I wouldn't pay extra for OEMs.
If you're going to use the 2x4 method, make sure you remove your sway bar end links in order to get a bit more room for the re-installation. My passenger side one was recently replaced and came off easily. The driver's side one was original and was starting to seep grease from the boots, so I had a new one to replace it with. Being a southern car, they came off easily. If you have a northern car, they might be seized.
I did this job yesterday and have one thing to add. The loaner ball joint separator I got from autozone was the same style as the one pictured but not black. The jaw opening was about 1/8" too small to fit over the nut and threaded end of the ball joint. Harbor Freight has a separator like the one pictured that works well for $20.
Thanks for the tip on that Harbor Freight ball joint separator. I used that when I did mine today. I wasn't sure about the stand on the hub method so I followed the service manual. The jack trick to press down the control arm was great. I also used it again when tightening the ball joint nut (what a pain that is) because the stud started to spin on me. By compressing the arm even further with the upper jack you can stop it from spinning. Only happened to me on one side. I've got 4 new KYB struts and it rides like a different car. Should have done it sooner.
10-26-16, 07:12 PM
