Engel

Instructions for replacing rear wheel bearing hub assembly on Lexus LS430, 2000 - 2007.

Hi all. Having read so many threads of how to replace rear wheel bearings, but none with any real detail, I tackled the job myself and thought it may be helpful to give detailed instructions. (Before I forget them...)

To ascertain which side is noisy, take a test drive. Pick a smooth surfaced road so you can clearly hear the bearing noise above tyre noise.
When going around a right hand bend, the weight of the car shifts to the left, so the left hand bearing will load up and start its classic "wooooommm, wooooommm, wooooommm" noise, which will revert back to just an audible, low pitched consistent growl, which varies in pitch with road speed, when you're going straight.

Ditto for the right hand bearing. It will make the noise when going around a left hand bend.

Having determined which wheel bearing is at fault, time to replace the bearing. Buy a complete hub assembly. Don't bother trying to replace just the actual bearing out of the assembly. Not worth the hassle.
I trawled the net and got a genuine Toyota one for $94.50 delivered.

You will need:-
Torch or leadlight.
Mirror
10mm socket
17mm short socket
19mm socket
32mm socket and either a breaker bar or impact gun.
ratchet wrench and a couple of short extensions
pliers
medium sized 2 or 3 claw puller (even a relatively cheap one will do the job).
a short length (6") of flat steel, say 1/2" wide, which you can bend the last 1/2 " to make a hook at 90 degrees, and the other end to about 1" at 90 degrees the opposite way. Sort of making an elongated Z.

Procedure:-
Jack up the rear wheel with the noisy bearing, and remove road wheel.
Put axle stand under subframe mount at front of wheel arch for safety.

Remove brake caliper (2x19mm bolts) and tie up to take strain off brake hose.
Remove brake disc (not held on by anything other than roadwheel.
Remove split pin from end of axle and remove castellated locking cap.
Using 32mm socket and breaker bar (or impact gun) undo axle nut.

Remove 10mm bolt from ABS sensor and pull sensor out of the way. Look in the hole and you'll see a hole in the sheetmetal cover over the ABS cog.
Spray WD40 into axle splines in hub. You may have to give the end of the axle a gentle tap with a hammer and copper drift to loosen it in the splines.
Place puller claws around hub and position threaded part in centre of axle.
Tighten puller to push axle towards differential. It will move about 1" to 1.5".

Note that you DO NOT have to remove the CV joint rubber boot. (Experience..)
The hub assembly is held in place on the hub carrier by 4 x 17mm bolts. They are partly obscured by a round pressed sheetmetal cover protecting the ABS cog wheel. Using the strip of steel which you bent earlier, manoeuvre the end which you've bent 1/2" in behind this sheetmetal cover to hook under it, deep within the hub carrier. You'll need the torch and the mirror to see what you're doing.
I used a drift pushing on the other 1" bent end and gently tapped at it towards the centre of the car, in a couple of places around the cover, and it popped out and came loose.
This enables you to manoeuvre the 17mm socket with short extension onto all 4 bolts behind the hub carrier. They were not excessively tight, so were relatively easy to undo. Once all out, manoeuvre the drift inside the parking brake mechanism to tap the old hub carrier (which you're replacing) to loosen it. It will eventually move and come away from its circular recess.

Carefully pull it out, and clean the circular recess with a fine wire brush or similar.
Replace with new bearing/hub assembly and as they say, installation is a reversal of removal.
Partly tighten the 4x17mm bolts in diagonally opposite sequence to ensure the hub sits straight in its housing. Then tighten securely.
Be careful to align the hole for the ABS sensor on the sheetmetal cover in the same place you saw before when you removed the sensor.

Release the puller and let the natural tension in the axle poke it through the new hub. This will push the sheetmetal cover into position, but give it a GENTLE tap from behind to ensure it's seated.

Axle nut on & tighten with impact gun or bar. Castellated cover and split pin in. ABS sensor back in and bolted. Brake disc on. Caliper on and tighten 2x19mm bolts. Axle stand out, wheel on & tight, jack out and clean up before touching upholstery.....

Job done. Lexie's all quiet again. Old bearing showed signs of rust, hence the noise.

Hope this is helpful. Total job time approx 2 hours. Time for a coffee (or a beer...)

Engel

bmore430

Very nice and detailed write up. I'm sure this will come in handy for many of us down the road. Only thing that would have made it perfect is pictures lol. Good job.

Engel

Yes, unfortunately I had a work deadline and couldn't stop to clean my hands and take pikkies at each stage. I did think about that. But once you have a look behind the suspension it's all pretty self explanatory. However if I have to ever do the opposite side, I will make sure I do take photos next time.

Incidentally, In my efforts to track the bearing noise, I did replace both front wheel bearings too. They are very straighforward. I'll write up a description for them too, but they are basically the same as the back, but without the complication of the CV joint, ABS shield and driving axle. Very easy to get at the 4 x 17mm bolts.
Nice to have a quiet car again.

Cheers,

Engel

430innj

Hi everyone,

I'm Scott, in Cranbury, NJ. I'm the 2nd owner of a mint LS430 with the UL package. 127K miles. For my first post, I would appreciate any recommendations members have for rear wheel hubs.

I can get a set of rear hub assembly from Detroit Axle for $139, free shipping. Anyone have experience with this brand? Thanks for responding when time permits. Here's a link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-2-NEW-Rear-Driver-and-Passenger-Wheel-Hub-and-Bearing-Assembly-/151217226446?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2002%7CMake%3ALexus%7CModel%3ALS430&hash=item23353fc2ce&vxp=mtr
Sincerely,

Scott

430innj

I'm in the middle of doing this job on both rear wheel hubs. I broke a short 1/2" extension attempting to get off the left rear axle nut that is frozen in place. Sprayed some WD-40 on it and had it sit overnight. We'll see if it soaked in - I'll try to "wake it up" with some good taps on a shorter extension and a hammer.

Back it it now.

I'll post some pics to add to the excellent DIY from Engel.

-Scott

430innj

HELP!

Sorry to yell... I'm stuck at the sheet metal cover that is supposed to tap off. Mine won't budge, at all, and I can't go any further. Anyone have experience or suggestions?

Thanks very much. I appreciate any suggestions.

-Scott

430innj

Lexi wins Round 1. Could not get the sheet metal cover to budge at all, and I had a couple of knowledgeable friends stop over and check it out. Tried the method recommended by Engel, fabricated the tool, tapped around the cover - nada. Never budged, even when I got serious with a medium size pry bar in a couple of places where you can get access.

I attached a pic of the area in question, right rear hub, photographed from near the center of the car, with a blue pry bar under the cover that wound not come off. You can see the parking brake cable loose, to help make room for the bar. (The photo was taken without the axle being pushed in, so you can not see the ABS cog which is protected by said cover.)

To the shop it goes.

Engel

Hi Scott.

Just checking that you didn't accidentally miss out the step of using a bearing puller to push the axle in towards the centre of the car about an inch or so. That was the tricky bit which, once I did it, enabled me to flip the sheetmetal cover off with the home-made lever.
I don't remember having to loosen the handbrake cable actually.

Cheers,

Engel

430innj

Hi Engel,

Thanks for the note. I got the axle to go in, using a 2-claw puller before I started working on getting the cover off. It went in a good 1.5". I took the photo to add to your DIY as a "before" pic, as in before the axle is pushed in. Unfortunately, that was the end of my pic taking when I could not get the sheetmetal cover to move out of the way.

I probably did not need to loosen the handbrake cable, but I figured it gave me an extra millimeter or so to work with. I really gave it some good hits, prying, pulling, etc., all around it. I had the car rocking a bit with the force being applied. I could only come to the conclusion that it's frozen in place, maybe corrosion or rust, and it looked like there might be a bit of that. With the axle pushed forward, I could see into the opening.

There is probably some sort of tool, puller, that is designed specifically to get that cover off. I'll chalk it up as a good reason there are professional techs who do this work every day.

I took 5-6 pics that might help others attempting the job. I'll post them and if you like you can grab them and add them to your DIY.

I would suggest an additional detail be added to the list of required tools:

1. 32mm socket must be 12-point, 1/2" drive.

Here's a pic of that:

430innj

Engel,

I have a dozen or so more pics to contribute to your DIY. Would you like me to send them to a different email?

-Scott

Engel

Hi Scott.

That would be fantastic mate. The more detailed the info for our rellow Lexies, the better.
Engel@Lizzy.com.au

Cheers,

Engel

Iknowspurg

Would this also work for a 2007 GS350 (RWD)

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

if someone comes across this thread again, you can use this detailed DIY..

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...del-ls430.html

Engel

Nice one LiCelsior! Those photos are fantastic. Everything looks so clean too.
The long bladed screwdriver through the sensor hole may be the key to helping those who can't shift the dust cap. Good call mate!
Engel

Jobbyson