What did you do to your LS430 today?
01-31-17, 07:31 AM
#241
Changed my oil and filter on Sunday. I needed to do my other car and figured may as well get both done. After finishing with both cars I go inside to update the maintainence logs and find that I changed the oil/filter on the LS in late November and only had 1900 miles on it since then! Doh! I'm definitely getting old (like the LS) if I can't remember that kind of stuff! At least now they're both on the same schedule.
01-31-17, 09:27 AM
#242
Pole Position
Dumb question but how hard is the idler pulley replace? Cost? I've got an obnoxious whine which increases with engine rpm. It would be great if its the pulley (rather than alternator bearings). Not the PS. No change in while if I move the steering wheel. I'll replace the serpentine belt while I'm at it. Thanks.
Last edited by Tom57; 01-31-17 at 09:37 AM.
01-31-17, 09:38 AM
#243
Pole Position
Dumb question but how hard is the idler pulley replace? Cost? I've got an obnoxious whine which increases with engine rpm. It would be great if its the pulley (rather than alternator bearings). Not the PS. No change in while if I move the steering wheel. I'll replace the serpentine belt while I'm at it. Thanks.
Idler Pulley & Bearing:
The current Lexus catalog idler pulley replacement is a Dayco brand (#89154). Apparently, the same idler pulley is used in 2nd Gen ('95 - '97) LS - (shared Lexus part #16604-0F010 with 2nd & 3rd Gen LS). (Gates pulley #36026 same). The Dayco pulley is available online for the low $40's. The idler pulley lists for $63 + tax/shipping at Lexus.
The original idler pulley bearing in the '01 is NSK #BD20-15DUL. Bearing size: 37 mm O.D. x 12 mm I.D. x 15 mm width. This bearing size is not generally available (anymore). In fact, the Dayco (#89154) replacement pulley has a different bearing than the original > #6203RS, and a different size, 17 mm I.D. x 12 mm width. The newer replacement pulley bearing also has flange bushings installed on each side of the 6203 RS bearing to bring the final dimensions of the bearing with bushings to 12 mm I.D. x 15 mm width (equal to OE sizes). Problem: the original pulley bearing may not have the flange bushings that you'd need to re-use if you were going to replace just the bearing. Check the idler pulley bearing to see if it has flange bushings. If it does, you could order a replacement bearing and install it with the bushings.
Tensioner Pulley & Bearing:
Tensioner pulley replacement in 3rd Gen LS is Lexus #16603-0W030 (Dayco #89006). Websites incorrectly show Dayco #89026 as the replacement tensioner pulley - the #89026 pulley is not correct - doesn't fit.
The correct Dayco #89006 pulley with high-quality bearing is available online for as low as +/- $15. This is far better than buying a whole new Lexus tensioner pulley ($67), or worse, the tensioner pulley and bracket assembly at Lexus for list price of $70 + tax/shipping.
You only need a new bearing in the original tensioner pulley. (You don't need a new bracket, nor do you need the new steel portion of the pulley.) Bearing in the original tensioner pulley is NTN brand #6203LU. Bearing size: 40 mm O.D. x 17 mm I.D. x 12 mm width. This is a very common bearing used in many auto engine applications. It is widely available, but you get what you pay for. Find brand name, Japanese-made bearings like NTN, Naichi, etc. - all are high quality, OE equivalent. Expect to pay around $10 online for a high-quality replacement bearing for this pulley. Install the new bearing in the OE pulley.
NOTE: Be sure that the tensioner assembly spring is operating correctly before you repair/replace only the tensioner pulley. The tensioner must operate correctly so as to not put undue torque on the alternator and/or A/C pulley bearings and/or timing belt.
01-31-17, 01:06 PM
#244
Good information on the pulleys Tom, thanks. I figured that you had this posted on a previous thread somewhere and it turns out to be rather lengthy. Note: from the 1st and 2nd gen forum:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...t-numbers.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...t-numbers.html
01-31-17, 01:17 PM
#245
Pole Position
Yes, rather than post the link to the long thread, I simply posted the relevant portions of my summary from post #77 in that thread, the link you posted. (There's also another thread in the 3rd Gen forum where I posted same -- can't put my finger on it -- didn't want to provide the link to the 1st / 2nd Gen LS forum which could lead to confusion.)
Last edited by Tom57; 01-31-17 at 03:34 PM.
02-01-17, 09:13 AM
#247
That would be great. Local garage said 165 to replace which is ridiculous.
02-01-17, 06:05 PM
#249
Lexus Fanatic
I went back to the car wash and asked if they found my door handle caps....the guys were cool and said those are so small, they would likely go down the grates....but one of the dudes goes, "I'm really sorry about that, man." Funny, you only work here, no need to be sorry, it's the car's fault. Anyway they've got 'em trained for good customer service. I don't think their equipment is ruining cars, I've gone through 5X this winter now, so my car should be getting worse and worse and swirl o matic parish....if it were the case.
02-02-17, 06:34 AM
#250
Moderator
Made an appointment for an oil change at a different dealership here in Milwaukee. Figured I'd try out Lexus of North Shore and see how they compare to the other dealership I go to, Lexus of Brookfield. My life is so exciting...
02-02-17, 06:35 AM
#251
Moderator
02-02-17, 06:39 AM
#252
Lexus Fanatic
hahahahahahaha but I know where you're coming from. The oil I would do myself, but when my BMW had free maintenance, I would make it a point to try different dealerships. I must have been to over 10. For the most part, they're all bad. They don't have that "Lexus" treat you like a human mentality, but they do give you a car so you never have to stay long. The most interesting car I probably got (and there have been over 35 I bet) was a 335d. Must have also gotten about 5 brand new 0 mile cars, which I always treated like my own. If I were in charge of BMWs service organization, probably my number one mandate would be to make eye contact with customers. The second would probably be to say hello to customers when they arrive.
02-02-17, 06:41 AM
#253
Pole Position
I went back to the car wash and asked if they found my door handle caps....the guys were cool and said those are so small, they would likely go down the grates....but one of the dudes goes, "I'm really sorry about that, man." Funny, you only work here, no need to be sorry, it's the car's fault. Anyway they've got 'em trained for good customer service. I don't think their equipment is ruining cars, I've gone through 5X this winter now, so my car should be getting worse and worse and swirl o matic parish....if it were the case.
Last edited by Tom57; 02-02-17 at 08:02 AM.
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Johnhav430 (02-02-17)
02-02-17, 06:46 AM
#254
Lexus Fanatic
The door handle caps are very easy to replace. You can buy the new escutcheon to match your paint code, and carefully remove/pry the plastic cap. It has two small plastic protrusions that insert into the door handle. Apply outdoor glue to the area around the small holes in the door handle and on the plastic protrusions of the new cap. Push on and let dry. It works. Saves time and hassle of having to remove inner door assembly and bolting the new cap onto the door handle.
Would the originals have used any glue? does it rely on tension from the pin going through the hole? oh....do you mean it actually bolts, so the plastic was broken from force?? This means that they could very well be tight, but a blunt force in the right direction breaks them off.....which is why nobody finds them to be loose...but there have been posts where they were gone, where one fella found one in his garage...
02-02-17, 07:44 AM
#255
Pole Position
Thanks Tom, I have the p/n's for my paint code 072...I'm gonna bite the bullet and "pretend" it didn't cost over $50 (even at 31% off list)...but I'll likely wait until I stop going to the car wash, i.e. after winter.
Would the originals have used any glue? does it rely on tension from the pin going through the hole? oh....do you mean it actually bolts, so the plastic was broken from force?? This means that they could very well be tight, but a blunt force in the right direction breaks them off.....which is why nobody finds them to be loose...but there have been posts where they were gone, where one fella found one in his garage...
Would the originals have used any glue? does it rely on tension from the pin going through the hole? oh....do you mean it actually bolts, so the plastic was broken from force?? This means that they could very well be tight, but a blunt force in the right direction breaks them off.....which is why nobody finds them to be loose...but there have been posts where they were gone, where one fella found one in his garage...
Example: The part number for the driver's side rear "plug sub-assembly" (as Lexus calls it) is: 69208-50010. (Part cost less than $20 with my dealer discount).