DIY Spark Plug Change With Pics
04-12-16, 06:51 PM
#61
Just did mine at 121k. Cleaned the MAF and throttle body as well. I feel the difference even though my car drove great before! The MAF was dirty to my surprise so I am sure there will be an improvement in MPG.
Before you start to change your plugs, make sure you have a lot of extensions (long/short) and an angle ratchet. If not, you'd be extremely frustrated and probably can't finish the job until you buy everything you need at the store.
Before you start to change your plugs, make sure you have a lot of extensions (long/short) and an angle ratchet. If not, you'd be extremely frustrated and probably can't finish the job until you buy everything you need at the store.
Last edited by xhifer; 04-12-16 at 07:22 PM.
04-24-16, 02:11 PM
#62
Driver School Candidate
First thanks to Brad and all the other posts. I finished mine today, and no issues really. A few notes below:
1. I am not sure if it was mentioned to remove left/right black engine covers...no big deal, simple .
2. I went out and purchased locking extension arms, however I never used them, I just used a lil duct tape on the existing extension/sprocket, to keep sprocket from getting stuck in the cylinder.
3. I really like the tip about the 5/8 heater hose, that worked awesome!
4. As mentioned the last cylinder next to the battery was the qoute "the hardest", however after doing 7 of them , the last one wasn't hard at all
5. Some of the tubes I removed the connector before I pulled them, others I left connected.
6. For removing the tubes connectors, i pressed the connector release with my finger and then used a flat head screwdriver to lift it off the tube. FYI when I tried doing this with my hands it felt like I was putting too much pressure on the wires. The screwdriver method put no stress on the wires.
FYI, I love this forum, I did my brakes/rotors, I did the door lock solenoid repair, and now this. I am saving $$$$$,
BD
1. I am not sure if it was mentioned to remove left/right black engine covers...no big deal, simple .
2. I went out and purchased locking extension arms, however I never used them, I just used a lil duct tape on the existing extension/sprocket, to keep sprocket from getting stuck in the cylinder.
3. I really like the tip about the 5/8 heater hose, that worked awesome!
4. As mentioned the last cylinder next to the battery was the qoute "the hardest", however after doing 7 of them , the last one wasn't hard at all
5. Some of the tubes I removed the connector before I pulled them, others I left connected.
6. For removing the tubes connectors, i pressed the connector release with my finger and then used a flat head screwdriver to lift it off the tube. FYI when I tried doing this with my hands it felt like I was putting too much pressure on the wires. The screwdriver method put no stress on the wires.
FYI, I love this forum, I did my brakes/rotors, I did the door lock solenoid repair, and now this. I am saving $$$$$,
BD
Last edited by scubadogg; 04-25-16 at 04:39 AM.
07-15-16, 09:44 AM
#63
does 15ft/lb dry = 15ft/lb "lubed"?
I've had my personal (ex-Lexus) tech do the plugs when he did my timing belt & water pump. I think that was around 90k miles?
I will be doing the plugs myself, sometime soon. My 05 LS has 140k on the ticker.
I purchased the NGK #IFR6T11 (4589) Laser Iridium's for $6.50 each with free shipping on Ebay. They appear to be genuine NGK's with the proper stampings/markings/etc. (There are knockoff plugs floating around on Ebay).
Anyway, hate to add to the discussion of to use or not use anti-seize on the plug's threads or not, knowing Lexus and plug manufacturers say NOT to use it, but my deep thought question of the day is.....
If you place barely a drop of synthetic oil on the plug threads or an extremely thin coat of anti-seize on the threads, then use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque (15 ft/lb?), will the torque really be too tight? In other words, if you use a torque wrench on dry threads and apply 15ft/lb isn't it the same torque if you apply 15ft/lb with a hint of anti-seize?
Is it faster travelling 80mph downhill versus travelling 80mph on a level surface?
For the record, I'll probably put something on the threads and maybe torque it to 14ft/lb for you gearheads much smarter than this dyi backyard mechanic.
I will be doing the plugs myself, sometime soon. My 05 LS has 140k on the ticker.
I purchased the NGK #IFR6T11 (4589) Laser Iridium's for $6.50 each with free shipping on Ebay. They appear to be genuine NGK's with the proper stampings/markings/etc. (There are knockoff plugs floating around on Ebay).
Anyway, hate to add to the discussion of to use or not use anti-seize on the plug's threads or not, knowing Lexus and plug manufacturers say NOT to use it, but my deep thought question of the day is.....
If you place barely a drop of synthetic oil on the plug threads or an extremely thin coat of anti-seize on the threads, then use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque (15 ft/lb?), will the torque really be too tight? In other words, if you use a torque wrench on dry threads and apply 15ft/lb isn't it the same torque if you apply 15ft/lb with a hint of anti-seize?
Is it faster travelling 80mph downhill versus travelling 80mph on a level surface?
For the record, I'll probably put something on the threads and maybe torque it to 14ft/lb for you gearheads much smarter than this dyi backyard mechanic.
07-15-16, 10:39 AM
#64
Driver School Candidate
Service manual listed at 13 ft-lbs. I replaced mine too couple weeks ago, I purchased the latest DENSO TT iridium plugs for $6.21 each from Amazon (free shipping and no tax) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A3PEUMU5VFQMLM , my friend didn't put any anti-seize paste at all since the factory unit did not use it.
The factory unit we took out were NGK iridium, they only have 86k+ miles on it and all looks good, before and after drivability is big different in smoothness and power, MPG does improved by 3-4 mpg.
The factory unit we took out were NGK iridium, they only have 86k+ miles on it and all looks good, before and after drivability is big different in smoothness and power, MPG does improved by 3-4 mpg.
07-15-16, 11:04 AM
#65
Racer
Thread Starter
I've had my personal (ex-Lexus) tech do the plugs when he did my timing belt & water pump. I think that was around 90k miles?
I will be doing the plugs myself, sometime soon. My 05 LS has 140k on the ticker.
I purchased the NGK #IFR6T11 (4589) Laser Iridium's for $6.50 each with free shipping on Ebay. They appear to be genuine NGK's with the proper stampings/markings/etc. (There are knockoff plugs floating around on Ebay).
Anyway, hate to add to the discussion of to use or not use anti-seize on the plug's threads or not, knowing Lexus and plug manufacturers say NOT to use it, but my deep thought question of the day is.....
If you place barely a drop of synthetic oil on the plug threads or an extremely thin coat of anti-seize on the threads, then use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque (15 ft/lb?), will the torque really be too tight? In other words, if you use a torque wrench on dry threads and apply 15ft/lb isn't it the same torque if you apply 15ft/lb with a hint of anti-seize?
Is it faster travelling 80mph downhill versus travelling 80mph on a level surface?
For the record, I'll probably put something on the threads and maybe torque it to 14ft/lb for you gearheads much smarter than this dyi backyard mechanic.
I will be doing the plugs myself, sometime soon. My 05 LS has 140k on the ticker.
I purchased the NGK #IFR6T11 (4589) Laser Iridium's for $6.50 each with free shipping on Ebay. They appear to be genuine NGK's with the proper stampings/markings/etc. (There are knockoff plugs floating around on Ebay).
Anyway, hate to add to the discussion of to use or not use anti-seize on the plug's threads or not, knowing Lexus and plug manufacturers say NOT to use it, but my deep thought question of the day is.....
If you place barely a drop of synthetic oil on the plug threads or an extremely thin coat of anti-seize on the threads, then use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque (15 ft/lb?), will the torque really be too tight? In other words, if you use a torque wrench on dry threads and apply 15ft/lb isn't it the same torque if you apply 15ft/lb with a hint of anti-seize?
Is it faster travelling 80mph downhill versus travelling 80mph on a level surface?
For the record, I'll probably put something on the threads and maybe torque it to 14ft/lb for you gearheads much smarter than this dyi backyard mechanic.
FWIW, I'm in the camp to use something light on the threads even though the manufacturer doesn't recommend it. It's more of a CYA for the manufacturer than it is the end user to put those in dry. I put a few drops of synthetic oil to sort of split the difference. Whatever you decide, just make sure its a really, really light coat.
But lubricating the threads means it's "tighter" than the value it would be if it were dry. So like 10 lbs of torque on a lubricated bolt would be 15 lbs dry (just a random example) because it takes less force to turn it a certain amount of times in the threads. Where some people get in trouble is they'll put antiseize on their lugnuts, torque it down, and it was too tight and causes damage.
What I have also heard with spark plugs is you can hand tighten, and then when you no longer can turn by hand, turn it with a socket a quarter turn and that is the correct amount of torque. Then you're basically using the distance turned instead of a "scale" on a torque wrench to measure the value. It's VERY light on aluminum heads.
I just don't like the idea of a spark plug in an aluminum head that will probably be there for 10 years without any sort of protection.
But I've been told they coat these new plug threads with a plating that doesn't allow it to gall. But a manufacturer will also tell you DexCool antifreeze is good for 150k miles, a lot of GM owners have a cooling system full of orange jello that says otherwise.
Last edited by BradTank; 07-15-16 at 11:07 AM.
01-02-17, 06:22 PM
#66
Driver School Candidate
LS430 2005 Spark Plug loose 148,000
I changed my spark plugs, car had 148,000 miles. On one of the cylinders I noticed the spark plug was loose and it looks like it was Cruddy. When I put the socket I turned the old spark plug with my hand to remove. No engine light, engine was smooth. I did notice that the exhaust smells when accelerate. MPG was crappy. I did not realize that I had to change spark plugs at 120k miles until I looked at the schedule. Oops!!! Anyway after I changed the spark plugs all 8, I drove the car and it exhaust smell was worse for first hour then completely gone. I am thinking the crud carbon deposit on that one cylinder had a build up and needed to burn off?
I did notice car is smoother, it just crossed my mind that maybe I should reset the car? Remove negative battery connection for 10 mins? Thoughts? Comments welcome!!
FWIW, I'm in the camp to use something light on the threads even though the manufacturer doesn't recommend it. It's more of a CYA for the manufacturer than it is the end user to put those in dry. I put a few drops of synthetic oil to sort of split the difference. Whatever you decide, just make sure its a really, really light coat.
But lubricating the threads means it's "tighter" than the value it would be if it were dry. So like 10 lbs of torque on a lubricated bolt would be 15 lbs dry (just a random example) because it takes less force to turn it a certain amount of times in the threads. Where some people get in trouble is they'll put antiseize on their lugnuts, torque it down, and it was too tight and causes damage.
What I have also heard with spark plugs is you can hand tighten, and then when you no longer can turn by hand, turn it with a socket a quarter turn and that is the correct amount of torque. Then you're basically using the distance turned instead of a "scale" on a torque wrench to measure the value. It's VERY light on aluminum heads.
I just don't like the idea of a spark plug in an aluminum head that will probably be there for 10 years without any sort of protection.
But I've been told they coat these new plug threads with a plating that doesn't allow it to gall. But a manufacturer will also tell you DexCool antifreeze is good for 150k miles, a lot of GM owners have a cooling system full of orange jello that says otherwise.
But lubricating the threads means it's "tighter" than the value it would be if it were dry. So like 10 lbs of torque on a lubricated bolt would be 15 lbs dry (just a random example) because it takes less force to turn it a certain amount of times in the threads. Where some people get in trouble is they'll put antiseize on their lugnuts, torque it down, and it was too tight and causes damage.
What I have also heard with spark plugs is you can hand tighten, and then when you no longer can turn by hand, turn it with a socket a quarter turn and that is the correct amount of torque. Then you're basically using the distance turned instead of a "scale" on a torque wrench to measure the value. It's VERY light on aluminum heads.
I just don't like the idea of a spark plug in an aluminum head that will probably be there for 10 years without any sort of protection.
But I've been told they coat these new plug threads with a plating that doesn't allow it to gall. But a manufacturer will also tell you DexCool antifreeze is good for 150k miles, a lot of GM owners have a cooling system full of orange jello that says otherwise.
01-02-17, 06:39 PM
#68
Lexus Fanatic
I've had my personal (ex-Lexus) tech do the plugs when he did my timing belt & water pump. I think that was around 90k miles?
I will be doing the plugs myself, sometime soon. My 05 LS has 140k on the ticker.
I purchased the NGK #IFR6T11 (4589) Laser Iridium's for $6.50 each with free shipping on Ebay. They appear to be genuine NGK's with the proper stampings/markings/etc. (There are knockoff plugs floating around on Ebay).
Anyway, hate to add to the discussion of to use or not use anti-seize on the plug's threads or not, knowing Lexus and plug manufacturers say NOT to use it, but my deep thought question of the day is.....
If you place barely a drop of synthetic oil on the plug threads or an extremely thin coat of anti-seize on the threads, then use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque (15 ft/lb?), will the torque really be too tight? In other words, if you use a torque wrench on dry threads and apply 15ft/lb isn't it the same torque if you apply 15ft/lb with a hint of anti-seize?
Is it faster travelling 80mph downhill versus travelling 80mph on a level surface?
For the record, I'll probably put something on the threads and maybe torque it to 14ft/lb for you gearheads much smarter than this dyi backyard mechanic.
I will be doing the plugs myself, sometime soon. My 05 LS has 140k on the ticker.
I purchased the NGK #IFR6T11 (4589) Laser Iridium's for $6.50 each with free shipping on Ebay. They appear to be genuine NGK's with the proper stampings/markings/etc. (There are knockoff plugs floating around on Ebay).
Anyway, hate to add to the discussion of to use or not use anti-seize on the plug's threads or not, knowing Lexus and plug manufacturers say NOT to use it, but my deep thought question of the day is.....
If you place barely a drop of synthetic oil on the plug threads or an extremely thin coat of anti-seize on the threads, then use a torque wrench to tighten to the specified torque (15 ft/lb?), will the torque really be too tight? In other words, if you use a torque wrench on dry threads and apply 15ft/lb isn't it the same torque if you apply 15ft/lb with a hint of anti-seize?
Is it faster travelling 80mph downhill versus travelling 80mph on a level surface?
For the record, I'll probably put something on the threads and maybe torque it to 14ft/lb for you gearheads much smarter than this dyi backyard mechanic.
Edit ps most 3/8 torque wrenches cannot accurately do 14, that implies the upper range is 70 ft lbs
Last edited by Johnhav430; 01-02-17 at 06:46 PM.
01-03-17, 06:43 AM
#69
Driver
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IF youve installed a spark plug then you know what it feels like when the washer crushes. i dunno how youd use a torque wrench in the car anyways. I just did my plugs and it wasnt hard at all. My car has 211,000 miles and the plugs that came out were ngk r plugs which looked bad.
01-03-17, 06:52 AM
#70
Lexus Fanatic
IF youve installed a spark plug then you know what it feels like when the washer crushes. i dunno how youd use a torque wrench in the car anyways. I just did my plugs and it wasnt hard at all. My car has 211,000 miles and the plugs that came out were ngk r plugs which looked bad.
I guess one can think about it this way...even I would not use a torque wrench on a snowblower or lawnmower. Still, I would on a car....but there is total truth to the go by feel....
edit p.s as mentioned my wrench is 5-75, so it is not possible to accurately torque below 15. my other car is 17, which is fine. There's no way anyway to do 8-10 with my wrench.
http://e3sparkplugs.com/torque-chart/
Last edited by Johnhav430; 01-03-17 at 06:56 AM.
01-03-17, 08:06 AM
#71
Racer
Thread Starter
I changed my spark plugs, car had 148,000 miles. On one of the cylinders I noticed the spark plug was loose and it looks like it was Cruddy. When I put the socket I turned the old spark plug with my hand to remove. No engine light, engine was smooth. I did notice that the exhaust smells when accelerate. MPG was crappy. I did not realize that I had to change spark plugs at 120k miles until I looked at the schedule. Oops!!! Anyway after I changed the spark plugs all 8, I drove the car and it exhaust smell was worse for first hour then completely gone. I am thinking the crud carbon deposit on that one cylinder had a build up and needed to burn off?
I did notice car is smoother, it just crossed my mind that maybe I should reset the car? Remove negative battery connection for 10 mins? Thoughts? Comments welcome!!
I'm not sure if it's a coincidence or maybe the engine design, but one of mine looked really bad as well and was covered in carbon. (passenger side, closest to firewall)
I just assumed it was because it was the hardest plug to reach and the previous tech simply left it on out of laziness but changed the ones that were easy to get to.
I would reset the ECM I just know one time when I did something as simple as clean the throttle body and MAF, the car didn't run properly until I reset the ECM. So I tend to think it probably helps dial it in.
One big reason I changed the spark plugs was my car had the infamous foul smelling exhaust (like rotten eggs) and I thought it might help. It did make a difference, the smell is still there, but like 80% gone now. It used to completely stink up the garage, now it's just a whiff every so often.
Regarding torque wrenches, they make models that are for lower torque application like inch/pounds that are better suited for something like this that are affordable. Or you can just go by feel.
01-03-17, 10:23 AM
#72
Lexus Fanatic
I just took a quick look, and there are plenty of 1/4" in lbs. torque wrenches that go 20-200, implying they could be accurate down to 40. 40 is only 3.3 ft. lbs. Sweet....200 is 16.6.....in my personal case 15+ I switch to the 3/8.....the 1/4 can handle 4 to 14.x ft. lbs....the only problem is cost and how often I would be able to use it....
01-03-17, 01:40 PM
#73
Driver School Candidate
Spark Plug change
Thanks all for the reply. I already used the torque wrench to 15 ft lbs and everything went well. The plugs that were removed are ORIGINAL. 1 out of 8 was loose and removed it by hand only. My engine is smoother now but it was ok before just poor MPG. I am hoping with the spark plug change my MPG will improve. As far as the torque wrench I felt the washers get crushed and the amount of force I put on the wrench felt consistent in all 8 plugs. I am not worried about that but to be safe, I will check the plugs 1/4 th life or 30, 000 miles from now. My main question is the loose plug what impact did that have on the engine? I did notice after I put in the new plugs the car exhaust smell was strong for a few hard accelerations then gone. I think that was due to the carbon built up due to lack of full compression. What is surprising is why did I not get an engine light on?
The smell is gone now. I did notice the engine is quieter and smoother but same amount of power as before. I am thinking to reset my ECU by disconnecting the negative battery for 10 mins and see if that changes the engine behavior.
Any feedback regarding what impact a loose plug has on your engine? Why engine light did not go on? Thanks!
The smell is gone now. I did notice the engine is quieter and smoother but same amount of power as before. I am thinking to reset my ECU by disconnecting the negative battery for 10 mins and see if that changes the engine behavior.
Any feedback regarding what impact a loose plug has on your engine? Why engine light did not go on? Thanks!
01-03-17, 02:28 PM
#74
Pole Position
You may have a residual issue with the spark plug tube seal in the valve cover at some point. All of that extra hot gas on the plug tube seal could cause a premature leak. I'd pull that plug sooner than 30K miles just to be sure there is no oil around its base. Nothing big to worry about though.
Last edited by Tom57; 01-03-17 at 02:35 PM.