DIY Spark Plug Change With Pics
#16
Racer
How hard is this job for a noob ? I mean I am handy and have changed Spark plugs before in cars back in the 80's, never mind all the yard tools (lawn mower, etc).
How long of a ext tool do I need to be able to reach the plugs ? Are they really deep in there after pulling off the cap ?
How long of a ext tool do I need to be able to reach the plugs ? Are they really deep in there after pulling off the cap ?
#17
If you've changed plugs before then this should not be a problem.
Follow the instructions...I think I used a 6 inch extension when I did mine... that should be plenty...
and yes, you cannot reach them with your fingers, they are really deep in there..
Should not be a problem to change them out... if you can remove/replace all the plastic needed to access the plugs, then you can certainly change out the plugs.
Follow the instructions...I think I used a 6 inch extension when I did mine... that should be plenty...
and yes, you cannot reach them with your fingers, they are really deep in there..
Should not be a problem to change them out... if you can remove/replace all the plastic needed to access the plugs, then you can certainly change out the plugs.
#18
Racer
If you've changed plugs before then this should not be a problem.
Follow the instructions...I think I used a 6 inch extension when I did mine... that should be plenty...
and yes, you cannot reach them with your fingers, they are really deep in there..
Should not be a problem to change them out... if you can remove/replace all the plastic needed to access the plugs, then you can certainly change out the plugs.
Follow the instructions...I think I used a 6 inch extension when I did mine... that should be plenty...
and yes, you cannot reach them with your fingers, they are really deep in there..
Should not be a problem to change them out... if you can remove/replace all the plastic needed to access the plugs, then you can certainly change out the plugs.
My car has 170K on it and I dont think the plugs have ever been changed. Trying to get the performance back on the car and this 1-2 hour job should help.
#21
Just be extra careful about 2 things:
1. Don't drop anything into the spark plug holes
2. Don't cross-thread the new plugs. Start them by hand (using a spark plug socket).
Sorry if this is obvious, but if it saves you or someone else reading this thread some grief, it is OK.
1. Don't drop anything into the spark plug holes
2. Don't cross-thread the new plugs. Start them by hand (using a spark plug socket).
Sorry if this is obvious, but if it saves you or someone else reading this thread some grief, it is OK.
#22
Driver School Candidate
I would recommend getting your spark plugs from Advance Auto. I bought my Denso Iridiums for $50.65 after tax using a $25 off $70 coupon last month. There is currently a $30 off $75 coupon available.
#23
I bought my plugs at O'Reillys and they worked fine...
One other hint... once you pull the boot off, look into the shaft for debris or liquid that might be there and clean it out before you remove the plug.
And most, if not all, would say don't use anti-seize lubricant on the plugs as you don't need it, and may cause problems when you attempt to replace them next time.
And should not take 2 hours...
One other hint... once you pull the boot off, look into the shaft for debris or liquid that might be there and clean it out before you remove the plug.
And most, if not all, would say don't use anti-seize lubricant on the plugs as you don't need it, and may cause problems when you attempt to replace them next time.
And should not take 2 hours...
#24
How many miles were on the plugs you removed? Was there a noticeable increase in performance?
I have 82k on the original plugs. Car idles dead perfect. 26 mpg on highway, with great acceleration. Dealer said I wouldn't notice at difference at this point by changing them. ( I would do it myself) still 82k miles, they aren't new.
I have 82k on the original plugs. Car idles dead perfect. 26 mpg on highway, with great acceleration. Dealer said I wouldn't notice at difference at this point by changing them. ( I would do it myself) still 82k miles, they aren't new.
#26
#27
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Many thanks to the OP and others who have contributed to this thread. I was able to successfully change my plugs yesterday with limited difficulty and the car feels like new life has been breathed into the engine for sure. I did the throttle body and MAF cleaning at the same time and the overall effect is pleasing me. I thought I would add just a few observations.
The wire harnesses on the passenger side did not have enough slack to remove the boot from the hole without removing the wire harnesses. Two on the driver side had enough slack to not unclip and remove the boot attached and the others had to be unclipped. Depressing the tab and pulling hard enough to remove the clip, but carefully enough to not rip the wiring once it came free was the hardest part of this job for me. I was unable (after my thumb fingernail started to bleed) to depress the tab and pull the clip off with one hand. I had to change my technique. A better method is to get a secure grip on the clip for the pulling aspect and then find a way to depress the tab with your other hand. Two hands and some creativity made this a lot easier. It may have just been mine, but these can be on there tighter than one would think.
The emphasis on taking your time to thread the new plug carefully and not cross thread is very important. Others used a variety of hoses to seat and begin threading of the plug. I was able to use a 5/8 spark plug socket and an extension by hand to gently seat and begin the threading until it could not be turned any further, then a gentle quarter turn with the socket wrench to finalize it.
Another challenge is access to the plugs. Removing of the vacuum black box is essential and a series of extensions and different sizes of socket wrenches helps with gaining access to some of the more difficult spots to reach. Overall very doable and worth the result and savings.
Finally, at 125K, the plugs certainly showed their wear.
The wire harnesses on the passenger side did not have enough slack to remove the boot from the hole without removing the wire harnesses. Two on the driver side had enough slack to not unclip and remove the boot attached and the others had to be unclipped. Depressing the tab and pulling hard enough to remove the clip, but carefully enough to not rip the wiring once it came free was the hardest part of this job for me. I was unable (after my thumb fingernail started to bleed) to depress the tab and pull the clip off with one hand. I had to change my technique. A better method is to get a secure grip on the clip for the pulling aspect and then find a way to depress the tab with your other hand. Two hands and some creativity made this a lot easier. It may have just been mine, but these can be on there tighter than one would think.
The emphasis on taking your time to thread the new plug carefully and not cross thread is very important. Others used a variety of hoses to seat and begin threading of the plug. I was able to use a 5/8 spark plug socket and an extension by hand to gently seat and begin the threading until it could not be turned any further, then a gentle quarter turn with the socket wrench to finalize it.
Another challenge is access to the plugs. Removing of the vacuum black box is essential and a series of extensions and different sizes of socket wrenches helps with gaining access to some of the more difficult spots to reach. Overall very doable and worth the result and savings.
Finally, at 125K, the plugs certainly showed their wear.
#29
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