Changed the oil and filter today.
09-04-13, 09:52 AM
#33
Most new, higher end cars specify synthetic.
I personally think it's a no brainer, I'm not sure anyone would dispute that synthetic just does a better job in every area. It runs cooler, less friction, doesn't break down as quickly, less likely to sludge, etc. The longer intervals come out as a wash vs the money saved from using a conventional oil.
If you change your oil yourself, the savings from dino vs synthetic is about $10-$15, which is probably pretty close to what many people burn in gas in a day or two of driving.
I personally think it's a no brainer, I'm not sure anyone would dispute that synthetic just does a better job in every area. It runs cooler, less friction, doesn't break down as quickly, less likely to sludge, etc. The longer intervals come out as a wash vs the money saved from using a conventional oil.
If you change your oil yourself, the savings from dino vs synthetic is about $10-$15, which is probably pretty close to what many people burn in gas in a day or two of driving.
09-05-13, 10:40 AM
#35
as far as a thread about changing oil goes, this is extremely interesting.
Just wondering, how often do you guys change your oil? i know its recommend every 5k, but i think dealers just say that in an attempt to milk you for more money, what do you guys think?
Just wondering, how often do you guys change your oil? i know its recommend every 5k, but i think dealers just say that in an attempt to milk you for more money, what do you guys think?
09-05-13, 02:15 PM
#36
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Car is extremely easy to work on.
Doing the starter motor was extremely straightforward.
Getting the manifold off on other cars can be such a pain. On this car it's just so easy to do and can be done easily in 2 hours on and off.
Doing the starter motor was extremely straightforward.
Getting the manifold off on other cars can be such a pain. On this car it's just so easy to do and can be done easily in 2 hours on and off.
09-05-13, 02:17 PM
#37
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10k is perfectly acceptable with this car. At 5k on this 3uz you're just pissing money away.
09-11-13, 06:05 AM
#38
Oil breaks down with hot and cold cycles, if you are driving a short distance where your car will only be up to temp for a minute then you are better off going with synthetic.
Synthetic is more resistent to break down than conventional oil.
09-11-13, 06:23 AM
#39
09-11-13, 09:53 AM
#41
Instructor
I just bought 6 x 4.73L jugs of Valvoline SYNPower 5W-20 from Walmart for $16.99/jug ($3.59/L) pre-tax. Best price I've ever seen for synthetic oil. This oil exceeds API SN/SM, ILSAC GF-5, ACEA A1, and all preceding API and ILSAC specs. Also meets Ford M2C045-A, Chrysler MS 6395, GM6094M, and GM DEXOS 1.
The physical 2002 LS430 Canadian owner's manual that came with my car says drain+refill w/filter is 4.5L (4.8qt, 4.0 Imp.qt). The US Lexus.com 2002 manual says 5.1L (5.4qt, 4.5 Imp.qt). Does anyone know why there is a discrepancy?
BMW7_LS430: The LS430 is NOT specified to use synthetic. The 2001-2006 specification is 5W-30, API SJ or higher, so up to you if you want conventional or synthetic that meets those specs.
Also note that per TSB EG006-06 (March 29, 2006), all 2006 UZ-series engines (and GR,JZ,MZ,VZ) in the US only are filled from the factory with 5W-20, ILSAC GF-4 (neither conventional nor synthetic is specified). Now I wonder why this spec is US-only - can it be due to federal emissions laws or CAFE requirements, or is it based on engineering design and scientific analysis of the engines' capabilities? The TSB says applicable vehicles is 2006 only - why not 2001-2005 UZ engines?
Also, the TSB specifically says "The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle", and I'm pretty sure all LS430 oil caps say 5W-30.
Anytime either 5W-20 or 5W-30 of those synthetic brands goes on sale for $4/L or less, I stock up. I only select 4.5L, 4.73L, or 5L jug sizes, dump the whole thing in, and consider it done - I don't care to check the dipstick since those jug sizes are close enough to spec. I prefer the 4.73L size since it cuts the difference between the 4.5L Canadian fill spec and the US 5.1L spec.
The cost of synthetic on sale ($3.59/L) over normal-priced conventional is very minimal - Shell Conventional is $2.99/L at Costco, Castrol Conventional is $3.50/L at Costco, and TGMO is even more expensive than synthetic on sale - $4.69/L at Toyota.
Natey2: The appearance of broken down oil is best visualized at the microscopic level. Not sure why you want to see it at the macro level. A lab test is required to quantify how much viscosity and detergents/additives have been lost. The safest way is to change every 8000km (per Lexus maintenance guide) unless you have run a UOA that proves you can go further with a specific brand and weight of oil. If you want to visually see used oil, DIY your next oil change.
cerberusM5: Short drives, low-speed driving, stop-go traffic, low-rpms, and idling are extra tough on the engine. Not enough time to fully circulate the oil or to burn off unburned fuel, etc. This is classified as a severe service cycle and oil changes should be no longer than every 8000km/5000mi.
Bottom line: You should have absolutely no concerns if you change every 8000km/5000mi, even in a severe service cycle, if you use a brand of synthetic that meets as many major specs as possible (Castrol EDGE, Mobil1, Valvoline SYNPower, etc) and the Denso/Toyota Japan 90915-20004 filters. No point using conventional if the cost increase to synthetic is negligable.
The physical 2002 LS430 Canadian owner's manual that came with my car says drain+refill w/filter is 4.5L (4.8qt, 4.0 Imp.qt). The US Lexus.com 2002 manual says 5.1L (5.4qt, 4.5 Imp.qt). Does anyone know why there is a discrepancy?
BMW7_LS430: The LS430 is NOT specified to use synthetic. The 2001-2006 specification is 5W-30, API SJ or higher, so up to you if you want conventional or synthetic that meets those specs.
Also note that per TSB EG006-06 (March 29, 2006), all 2006 UZ-series engines (and GR,JZ,MZ,VZ) in the US only are filled from the factory with 5W-20, ILSAC GF-4 (neither conventional nor synthetic is specified). Now I wonder why this spec is US-only - can it be due to federal emissions laws or CAFE requirements, or is it based on engineering design and scientific analysis of the engines' capabilities? The TSB says applicable vehicles is 2006 only - why not 2001-2005 UZ engines?
Also, the TSB specifically says "The recommended viscosity grade for this oil differs according to vehicle model. Use the recommended grade specified on the oil filler cap or in the Repair Manual or Owner’s Manual for each vehicle", and I'm pretty sure all LS430 oil caps say 5W-30.
Anytime either 5W-20 or 5W-30 of those synthetic brands goes on sale for $4/L or less, I stock up. I only select 4.5L, 4.73L, or 5L jug sizes, dump the whole thing in, and consider it done - I don't care to check the dipstick since those jug sizes are close enough to spec. I prefer the 4.73L size since it cuts the difference between the 4.5L Canadian fill spec and the US 5.1L spec.
The cost of synthetic on sale ($3.59/L) over normal-priced conventional is very minimal - Shell Conventional is $2.99/L at Costco, Castrol Conventional is $3.50/L at Costco, and TGMO is even more expensive than synthetic on sale - $4.69/L at Toyota.
Natey2: The appearance of broken down oil is best visualized at the microscopic level. Not sure why you want to see it at the macro level. A lab test is required to quantify how much viscosity and detergents/additives have been lost. The safest way is to change every 8000km (per Lexus maintenance guide) unless you have run a UOA that proves you can go further with a specific brand and weight of oil. If you want to visually see used oil, DIY your next oil change.
cerberusM5: Short drives, low-speed driving, stop-go traffic, low-rpms, and idling are extra tough on the engine. Not enough time to fully circulate the oil or to burn off unburned fuel, etc. This is classified as a severe service cycle and oil changes should be no longer than every 8000km/5000mi.
Bottom line: You should have absolutely no concerns if you change every 8000km/5000mi, even in a severe service cycle, if you use a brand of synthetic that meets as many major specs as possible (Castrol EDGE, Mobil1, Valvoline SYNPower, etc) and the Denso/Toyota Japan 90915-20004 filters. No point using conventional if the cost increase to synthetic is negligable.
09-11-13, 03:28 PM
#42
I typically purchase 3 oil changes from eoilchange.com , usually via a Groupon offer (past 2 years) for $30 (*). Must be used within 1 year of initial use. Since I only drive about 6K miles a year, that's amounts to an oil change every 2K miles or every 4 months. The oil change is done at my local Toyota dealership, and they use Castrol 5W-30.
I used to change oil myself during my college days. Now I figure for the price above, I'd just let the Toyota dealership do it.
(*) They may charge an extra $5 per oil change for V8.
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I used to change oil myself during my college days. Now I figure for the price above, I'd just let the Toyota dealership do it.
(*) They may charge an extra $5 per oil change for V8.
Sent from an Android device using IB AutoGroup forum reader.
09-11-13, 07:18 PM
#44
09-12-13, 01:41 PM
#45
I've seen new motor oil (looks like clear cooking oil on the oil dipstick), slightly used motor oil (looks brown), and downright dirty motor oil (looks like black tar).
There's also the notorious cases of oil gelling in some Toyotas and Lexuses, e.g. some year 2000-ish V6 models.
Not sure about broken down oil...
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There's also the notorious cases of oil gelling in some Toyotas and Lexuses, e.g. some year 2000-ish V6 models.
Not sure about broken down oil...
Sent from an Android device using IB AutoGroup forum reader.
