2001 LS430 shifting problem
#1
Dances with goats
Thread Starter
2001 LS430 shifting problem
Once the car is warmed up, it shifts at high RPMs. Not only that once it's warmed up it also runs as if it has no power to go. One guy tells me transmission needs rebuild, another guy tells me there is a bad "switch" thats making the transmission act wrong..
194k miles on it what do you guys think?
194k miles on it what do you guys think?
#5
#6
Dances with goats
Thread Starter
No ECT mode and never any fluid changes. I've asked my mechanic about it and he said its risky because a) it could help or b) it could just not shift at all after that
#7
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
Not talking amount of fluid but color. If it isn't a translucent red, it is probably in very bad shape by now. The old tale of leaving it persists and that discussion has many interpretations. Let it die, power flushes and what has been done successfully for many years is the incremental drain.
At this point, you really have nothing to lose other than spending for a tranny replacement or buying 4-6 jugs of $5 Type IV tranny fluid and gradually diluting the burnt mess in there now. The LS400 crowd has had much success with this and there is no reason why it should not be the same for your car.
Go to your Toyota dealer buy 2 quarts of Type IV tranny fluid, a crush washer and drain the tranny pan. About 2 quarts will come out. Replace with the same amount of fluid and drive for a week. Repeat routine until the fluid is translucent red. This drill if you DIY will cost you about $70. If it revives the tranny, you saved your wallet a tranny or shopping for a new car. The other is the shift solenoid. If the fluid is all burnt and has particulates floating in it, you'll probably need to clean the screen to allow for proper fluid flow/shifting and replace the solenoid.
I also suspect since the tranny has been neglected your power steering is in similar shape. Get that fluid changed because it is an equally $$ repair for a steering rack and power steering pump.
Continuing with fluids, have the rear differential fluid changed. Differentials are about $1K so a $9 bottle of gear oil will keep it happy.
At this point, you really have nothing to lose other than spending for a tranny replacement or buying 4-6 jugs of $5 Type IV tranny fluid and gradually diluting the burnt mess in there now. The LS400 crowd has had much success with this and there is no reason why it should not be the same for your car.
Go to your Toyota dealer buy 2 quarts of Type IV tranny fluid, a crush washer and drain the tranny pan. About 2 quarts will come out. Replace with the same amount of fluid and drive for a week. Repeat routine until the fluid is translucent red. This drill if you DIY will cost you about $70. If it revives the tranny, you saved your wallet a tranny or shopping for a new car. The other is the shift solenoid. If the fluid is all burnt and has particulates floating in it, you'll probably need to clean the screen to allow for proper fluid flow/shifting and replace the solenoid.
I also suspect since the tranny has been neglected your power steering is in similar shape. Get that fluid changed because it is an equally $$ repair for a steering rack and power steering pump.
Continuing with fluids, have the rear differential fluid changed. Differentials are about $1K so a $9 bottle of gear oil will keep it happy.
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#8
Wow... so almosy 200k without a trans fluid change. Your fliuds should have been drained and filled every 60k tops, so youve missed three changes already. Not a good thing.
#9
Dances with goats
Thread Starter
Changed the fluid, It was very dirty
Still have the problem but it is better thats for sure, not so much high RPM shifting but the car doesn't move much it drives as if it has no power to go.. no tranny slipping or any of that. Shift solenoid my mechanic won't change because he says on his LS when he changed the solenoid 1 week later the tranny gave out. So we've decided to run it for a week or so and then change the fluid again to see what happens. Looks like we might be swapping the tranny though
Still have the problem but it is better thats for sure, not so much high RPM shifting but the car doesn't move much it drives as if it has no power to go.. no tranny slipping or any of that. Shift solenoid my mechanic won't change because he says on his LS when he changed the solenoid 1 week later the tranny gave out. So we've decided to run it for a week or so and then change the fluid again to see what happens. Looks like we might be swapping the tranny though
#10
Your mechanic isn't a mechanic, he's a glorified fitter who would rather take the easy route of just fitting a replacement box.
Easy job and good money, I don't blame him.
Easy job and good money, I don't blame him.
#11
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A supermarket cashier girl knows more then your "mechanic"
Do your self a favour before spending $$$ and change the ATF two - three more times until it is clean and red...
Change and then go for for a drive for a mile or so shifting through all the gears and then back to garage and change again - repeat that two-three times...
Once you saved your gearbox - fire your "mechanic" and find another one...
P.S.I change my AFT fluid every 45k miles
#12
Dances with goats
Thread Starter
Same thoughts here...
A supermarket cashier girl knows more then your "mechanic"
Do your self a favour before spending $$$ and change the ATF two - three more times until it is clean and red...
Change and then go for for a drive for a mile or so shifting through all the gears and then back to garage and change again - repeat that two-three times...
Once you saved your gearbox - fire your "mechanic" and find another one...
P.S.I change my AFT fluid every 45k miles
A supermarket cashier girl knows more then your "mechanic"
Do your self a favour before spending $$$ and change the ATF two - three more times until it is clean and red...
Change and then go for for a drive for a mile or so shifting through all the gears and then back to garage and change again - repeat that two-three times...
Once you saved your gearbox - fire your "mechanic" and find another one...
P.S.I change my AFT fluid every 45k miles
#13
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I am 99% sure that is still the problem with ATF fluid...
When you changed it - you only changed the small portion of it as I think around 3/4 or so still remains in tranny (you can't take it out)...
You said it is not slipping, but how can you really feel that it is not slipping on vehicle with such weight/torque/power?
Just replace the ATF few more times (so there is more new fluid vs old fluid), and it should all come in order + it is much cheaper/quicker/easier to do that then strip the whole tranny and realise that all you needed to do is change the fluid...
P.S.Fluid's job is also to keep gearbox on it's optimal temperature...
Read a bit about ATF here:
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques123_0.html
When you changed it - you only changed the small portion of it as I think around 3/4 or so still remains in tranny (you can't take it out)...
You said it is not slipping, but how can you really feel that it is not slipping on vehicle with such weight/torque/power?
Just replace the ATF few more times (so there is more new fluid vs old fluid), and it should all come in order + it is much cheaper/quicker/easier to do that then strip the whole tranny and realise that all you needed to do is change the fluid...
P.S.Fluid's job is also to keep gearbox on it's optimal temperature...
Read a bit about ATF here:
http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repa...ques123_0.html
Last edited by Twix; 01-08-13 at 12:15 AM.