lexontario

2003 LS 430 UL....with a/c on max cool, drivers side is cold but paasenger side blowing warmer air.... I checked fuses and they seem ok... all i can think of is the servo that controls air draw is noy operating properly closing off warm air and drawing the cool air...
Anyone have any experience with this or any idea for a fix?????

toyo

Yep, I had to replace it on my 01 RX. If I remember it's called the blend door actuator. It was a pain in the *** to replace it as well. Not sure how bad it is on the LS.

Playdrv4me

I have now been on two forums for two *entirely* different cars where cold on one side and warm on the other has been low refrigerant in every single case. This applied for both Cadillacs and 2003+ Range Rovers. Don't ask me to explain the mechanics of why this is the case, but it is. It *could* also be a blend door or actuator problem, but eliminate the easy stuff before you go tearing apart your dash, and have your A/C pressure levels checked out..

toyo

Please explain how the A/C pressure would have any part in the function of how the air is discharged thru the vents? I never realized freon was so smart!

Playdrv4me

Refrigerant level. You use a pressure gauge in the process of filling or evacuating the system.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-r...tml#post349567

In the case of the above thread, everything from the control unit in the cab, to the heater control valve to the mechanical components of the system were investigated. For every single one of the people who posted in that thread, it ended up simply being low refrigerant. I can pull up numerous threads over at the Cadillac forum as well as Dodge Diesel forums, the Honda forums, Toyota forums and various others where this is the common cause. The other commonality is a smart-aleck who always comes in to the thread and tries to derail the whole conversation by saying it can't be possible. Here is a potential explanation of why this happens from a Honda forum: "... refrigerant runs low, and when this happens, it only has enough charge to cool the coil right around the orifice where it comes out. This is on many cars the passenger side. As it goes across to the exit of the coil, there isn't' any cooling left and those vents on that side run warmer." Exchange passenger's for driver's as varied by model and make.

The principles of operation on these systems are not rocket science, and they're not all that different. While it is certainly possible for the electronic components and blend doors to be at fault as you mentioned, low refrigerant CAN cause the condition mentioned in this thread and IS the culprit 9 out of 10 times. Considering that I wasn't discounting your potential explanation, I'm not sure what you're trying to prove (or disprove).

Rather than posting senseless replies that help no one, I merely offered up a potential solution to help the OP. Not to mention one that doesn't involve much effort or cost to rule out.

john339

Remember go for the simplest fix first then progress on to the harder more expensive fixes.
Playdrv4me has posted a good idea for a possible quick and cheap fix so why not try it first .
You both are trying to help someone so that is a good thing.

lexontario

Thanks for the replies. Maybe low on coolant, I had to top up coolant in the spring, the service shop said that when they checked for a leak there was nothing obvious but thought that since it was a UL that the lines to the rear
were at fault, he offered to replace the steel lines to rear with rubber hose for $1,0000 , plug the lines to the rear A/C $300 , or recharge A/C and add a sealant $150. Service guy said that the clamps that hold the lines probably cuased the lines to deteriorate. I chose the sealant fix and it was a temp fix as now my air is not as cold as it could be so it is still leaking. So i will have to get a proper fix done on the A/C and then go from there...
I know last fall I had to replace the Y pipe behind the cats as they had holes in them. I had orderd a new replacement stainless steel Y pipe and had it installed. when the shop was installing the y pipe did not fit properly and they had to heat the pipe up and bend it up to get it to connect at the rear. I wonder if they got some heat on the rear A/C lines and caused some damage to them . i will have to look under the car....

pandapower

I know this is an old post but just wanted to post up because I had the same problem of the passenger side running warm and the driver's side running a little bit cooler.

I took the car into the shop to check the freon levels. Turns out I was really low, the shop topped me up and put in 1+ pounds of freon and now the AC is back to normal. Both sides run colder than I ever remember them running.

jimbosr1

thanks,it is good to know that fixed your issues.

Tom57

Good to know that advice given by Playdrvr4me (post # 3 above) and explanation in post # 5 was spot on correct.

Getaclu84

Symptoms: ac not blowing as cool as it had in the past. Drivers side blowing significantly cooler than passenger side.
Temperature before I added refrigerant, 72 degrees on the driver side and 79 degrees on the passenger side. (Temp taken with a digital thermo at the center vents at idle on an 86 degree humid day)
Pressure in the system was read at 26 lbs. I increased pressure to 38 psi in the low pressure port (on the driver side firewall).
Temperature after refrigerant was added: driver 62 degrees, passenger 63 degrees

tallcaguy

Thanks, Playdrv4me. Having the same problem. I'll have the refrigerant checked. It would be great if that solves the problem. LOL talked to local Toyota dealer. They want 145 to diagnose. Service guy made a sad face and told me it will be a major (and expensive) repair procedure.

BradTank

FWIW, the other Lexus in our stable did the same thing with different vent temps on one side of the car and it ended up being low on refrigerant.

I admit it doesn't seem very logical at first, you would think all the vent temperatures would all be the same if the refrigerant was low.

In our case, I just top it off once every few years as the rear evaporator is the suspected problem and would be big dollars to fix.

Lexb4sex

I had the same issue with my SC430 and just added freon and fixed the issue

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

I know this is a bump, but for others who have the same issue, this helped in my GS300. I figured it was a servo, but I was a little low on r134 and after recharging it it's ice cold on both sides