valve cover and tube seal leak question
#46
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Location: Chalfont St Giles, Nr. London, UK
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Removing DS valve cover
Hi Martin and all,
I'm trying to remove my DS (left hand) valve cover to check my valve clearances as I'm getting a "mis-fire" caused by a leaking exhaust valve on No. 1 cylinder.
My LS430 runs on propane (which is implicated in valve seat recession) so I'm wanting to verify this before commencing remedial work.
However I'm having difficulty getting the 2 dipstick bolts removed - to be honest I can't even find them - and wondered if you could guide me through the process. In theory it sounds simple but I'm getting nowhere and I can see from your pics that it can be done.
Many thanks!
Mike
I'm trying to remove my DS (left hand) valve cover to check my valve clearances as I'm getting a "mis-fire" caused by a leaking exhaust valve on No. 1 cylinder.
My LS430 runs on propane (which is implicated in valve seat recession) so I'm wanting to verify this before commencing remedial work.
However I'm having difficulty getting the 2 dipstick bolts removed - to be honest I can't even find them - and wondered if you could guide me through the process. In theory it sounds simple but I'm getting nowhere and I can see from your pics that it can be done.
Many thanks!
Mike
#47
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: FL
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The picture by Jac430, above, shows the parts but doesn't tell the whole story. The "spark plug tube gasket" in that picture is the 'tube seal' that's being discussed. The spark plugs are inserted through the holes in the valve cover ("cylinder head cover sub-assembly" in the picture), after the valve covers are installed and torqued down. Use new "seal washers" on the 16 bolts, Then the ignition coils are installed, on top of the spark plugs, obviously going through the same holes. The 'tube seals' seal that gap, between the ignition coil outside, and the hole through the valve cover.
It's not a technically-difficult job, but it takes a long time, because LOTS of stuff, like wiring harnesses and air ducting, have to be removed, first. Take lots of close-up pictures, with a high-resolution digital camera, before you start the job, so you'll know where to hook that stuff back up, again.
It's not a technically-difficult job, but it takes a long time, because LOTS of stuff, like wiring harnesses and air ducting, have to be removed, first. Take lots of close-up pictures, with a high-resolution digital camera, before you start the job, so you'll know where to hook that stuff back up, again.
#48
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (3)
I have done v/c gaskets on 3 1uz and never seen a tube seal leak. To replace to tube seals on 1/3 uz. you have to flip the cover over you will see a few small metal ears holding the seal in place you have to use screwdriver to bend them back then use a socket and hammer to hammer out the old seals. Make sure you install then new seals correctly the same way you took the old ones out not upside down, carefully use a socket to beat the new seals into place and bend metal ears back to their place and youre done. Its time consuming. I have done these on toyota 3.0/3.3 v6 its the same design on camrys/avalons/sienna ...etc.
#49
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Sorry for the bump. Anyone have the lexus part number for the tube seal? I've been looking at http://lexus.sewellparts.com/images/...000/111946.jpg and cant seem to figure out the part number.
EDIT: Nevermind found it. For those looking its: 1119350010
EDIT: Nevermind found it. For those looking its: 1119350010
Last edited by tcr101; 09-10-14 at 01:55 AM.
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