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Japanese manufacturers don't use a true phillips screw, they use something called JIS or Japanese Industrial Standard specifications. Phillips screws are designed to strip once you reach a certain torque. JIS screws don't, they work in a paradigm that the operators knows what they're doing and the screws should not strip and prioritize contact between the bit and screw - you'll notice that your screw driver will rarely slip out of the screw if you get them lined up right.
So now you're looking at this great door!
There are six torx bit bolts (I used a T30 bit for all of them but some people say they're a mix of T27 and T30 bolts)
And 3 10 mm bolts you'll have to remove. (10 MM on my Toyota?! pure craziness).
You can't see a few of the bolts here but there's:
3 Torx bolts near the door latch
1 torx bolt holding the driver's side lock on
1 torx bolt holding the actuator above
1 torx bolt holding the actuator from below (this is near a metal tab)
There's
2 10 mm bolts holding the window track. The window will need to be up for this procedure. Don't let it come down when the track is loose.
1 10 mm bolt holding the door handle this is kinda buried.
Here's where the bolt that holds the door lock is located
So pull that bit of rubber off (using a trim tool that used on the door) and pull the bolt out:
You should be able to remove the lock - just pull it straight out. And pull the door handle out - just slide it back and pull it out.
The door lock actuator comes out the bottom (disconnect it from the wiring harness first), you'll have to pull a lot of the vapor shield out. You need to pull it below the window guide. Perhaps I'll find a camera person and make a video in the future but I believe in you!
Here are some reference photos of the door lock actuator that I pulled out:
The you'll have to split the bottom case, near where the wiring harness plugs in. Then swap out the old motor for the new one and put the case back together. I don't have soft close doors and I kinda destroyed my case opening it... with a soldering gun. So I had to ziptie it together (because the motor and the gear didn't connect...) but then put the actuator back in. Bolt it in. Secure the window guide track. Reinstall your door handle. And then put your door panel back on and try your remote lock/unlock.
I replaced my motor in the actuator and everything seemed to be working fine until I realized my key won't unlock the door manually. Anyone have an ideas? Also, what is does that torx bolt under the grommet go to? I never removed it when doing mine.
Im not sure about your torx bolt question........but my question to u is can u manually flip the lock unlock lever on the inside of the door effortlessly or does it bind up? If it binds up you are experiencing what happened with mine......I have many theories but in the end mine had a broken plastic piece......I ended up buying an entire actuator and I am soooooooo happy to not have to worry about that damn thing anymore......hope u get yours working correctly...no way around it....u have to go back in
When I click this link http://www.shastaanesthesia.com/Lexu.../actuator.html
I get a page with 10 menu items. I click on "Door Lock Actuator Repair" and a page loads with a menu list on the left and 5 ad links on the right. How do I get to see the tutorial? I have disabled AdBlocker. I am using windows 10 on a tablet.
I hope you all can help, I replaced the motor in my door actuator with no issues, then once completed the installation I closed the door. Well I learned that something went very wrong when I couldn't open the door with it unlocked. The door wouldn't unlock from inside or out, the door lock functioned as well with no issues. I have since lost my mind and have opened the upper portion of the door panel and have systematically removed the plastic cover of the actuator. I have been able to see that the specific lever within the mechanism that disengages the door and it wont move. I have tried various ways of applying leverage with no luck. I have rocked the door so many times hoping that it just needed some help, but nothing. Please help if you have any idea as to how I can fix this.
I attempted to replace the little motor actuator( right front). I ordered the motor on Amazon. Strangely, after everything was put back together the lock switch had power but was not operating properly. When locking all the doors, the RF lock would unlock. When unlocking all the doors, RF lock would lock. Basically doing the opposite of the command. The motor only goes in one way, right? I don't see where I went wrong unless I ordered the wrong motor or if the motor is faulty. Any ideas or suggestions?
I attempted to replace the little motor actuator( right front). I ordered the motor on Amazon. Strangely, after everything was put back together the lock switch had power but was not operating properly. When locking all the doors, the RF lock would unlock. When unlocking all the doors, RF lock would lock. Basically doing the opposite of the command. The motor only goes in one way, right? I don't see where I went wrong unless I ordered the wrong motor or if the motor is faulty. Any ideas or suggestions?
You can switch the wires where they attach to the motor, cut the 2 wires and splice to the opposite ones, or de-pin the wires from the connector and switch them.
Which motors did you get? Are they louder than the originals? Did you replace the entire motor or just the end cap with the brushes? I'm curious because I'll be doing all of mine soon.
Just wanted to say thanks to all who contributed to this great post as it helped me successfully replace my front door lock actuator motor (driver & passenger) last week. What helped me most was the wealth of information/experience shared particularly the pictures with notes.
A huge THANK YOU to all contributors on this forum. I followed the instructions and replaced my front passenger door actuator motor like a boss and saved $$$. One question: When I pryed the case holding the motor apart a small rod fell out. It was near the large white gear but it could have come from anywhere after twisting and turning the actuator. I could not determine where I came from or where it belonged either! Here is a pic. BTW the actuator works with the small rod missing so...????
A huge THANK YOU to all contributors on this forum. I followed the instructions and replaced my front passenger door actuator motor like a boss and saved $$$. One question: When I pryed the case holding the motor apart a small rod fell out. It was near the large white gear but it could have come from anywhere after twisting and turning the actuator. I could not determine where I came from or where it belonged either! Here is a pic. BTW the actuator works with the small rod missing so...????
That is the center shaft for the big white gear. It helps hold the gear from grinding on the sides of the black housing. You definitely want to have that installed.
That is the center shaft for the big white gear. It helps hold the gear from grinding on the sides of the black housing. You definitely want to have that installed.
That can't be as the rod is 0.75 of an inch long while the actuator housing is 0.6 of an inch thick. Also, if that part is missing then the actuator wouldn't work but he noted it is working fine without that part.
04-16-16, 06:46 PM
