Johnhav430

dag prices are all over the place, I paid $62 for the OEM bushings and was satisfied, as the list is $113 ea. Now, the price has dropped to $55, and I haven't even installed them yet, that's $14 down the drain lol

I'll probably get OEM shocks, sport models, when the time comes. I just don't want to mess around with coilovers that may need replacement 2 yrs. later. I figure it's something like $1200 OEM vs. $1600 coilovers, not much savings, but maybe longevity....but you guys say to reuse the mounts, that will take some off the price, maybe $250 or $300? Now we're under a grand for parts...

Johnhav430

Ok, got this done yesterday, must have been easy, 30 min. later my new bushing was in the first bracket and they were showing me.

The left looked torn in two places, facing the rear, when out of the car. The right showed nothing when out of the car, but a tear in the front side when in the car. Was told these were not actually too bad.

So, was it the 80% all better that I had expected? Not at all. I have a feeling that what I consider to be "divey" is how the LS430 actually drives as its a big or relatively big car.

One great thing which made it all worthwhile! The 60-65 mph shudder seems to be gone. I tried hard over 50 miles on the highway to recreate it, and I COULD NOT!!

So in the end, I think it "is" worth it to address if there are known tears/cracks. Just that it wasn't necessarily a poison pill that changed the car. But as mentioned, it got rid of one minor annoyance and doesn't cost that much. Can you imagine paying Lexus $1400, and not having a night/day result when finished? That's too expensive. (the dealer recommended replacement from the multipoint inspection)

I never did this on my 1998 Maxima over 244k, and I'm sure the bushings are nowhere near where they were back in 1998. Watching some youtubes, everyone was replacing the entire arms, and there were at least 5 vendors at < $50, including mevotech (seems OEM too expensive and bushings do not come separately). I'm just happy to have OEM myself....

LudeAEM

Where are these inexpensive bushings you speak of? Thanks for the feedback

*edit - I see them on Ebay but looks like they are the bushings only so the old bushings would need to be pressed out and new ones pressed in right?

Johnhav430

. I got Oem on eBay for $62 ea., I saw them drop to $55. Just search for 48655-50012. Then around $260 to have them installed...better than the dealer.....

tradosauru

LCA bushings replaced in front or rear?

Johnhav430

. Yes, the indie shop can do it without removing the arms...it seems very easy for them to do...worth it imho....

Johnhav430

edit. If we are talking about the front suspension, the rear bushing. Front being the one that only comes with a new arm, it's unchanged....

Bocatrip

I must admit I have not read every post. I purchased my 2001 LS430 at 98,000 miles 7 years ago. The LCA bushings were cracked then. Now 7 years later they are still cracked except the fluid inside the bushings leaked out a year or so ago. My car still drives and handles perfectly without any creaks, clunks, steering issues, etc. I guess I'm lucky because I do have numerous oil leaks but the front end is tight as a drum. Go figure! Anyway, I'm taking my ownership day by day until maintenance costs gets out of hand.

tradosauru

Front as in front of car?

tkblazer

Just installed a set of Figs 90 durometer bushings today on my 06. Original bushings has cracks and would occasionally cause a shudder at highway speeds and the steering wheel would sometimes shake on braking.

The installs as fairly simple, a breaker bar and a small pry bar would come in handy for installation. I was able to install them in under an hour and without removing either of the front wheels. Getting the inner bolt threaded was tricky. I had to take a screw driver and align the hole and then tighten down the big bolt to hold the bracket in place.

The difference was felt right away when driving. The steering feels tighter and maybe with a slight increase in the weight of steering. Braking feels more composed and firm. There is a dip on my route home which is on an on ramp and when traveling 70 mph it gets harsh and the steering wheel will jerk around. That same dip today barely made any movement in the steering wheel.

Imo, if you drive your car hard and don't mind a little more steering feedback go with the figs bushings. They do not really change the comfort of the car, it just gives it a more dynamic maybe even sporty type of feel.

For those interested, I have my stock bushing housings still and would sell them to anyone interested.

tradosauru

I guess I will be the guinea pig and try the complete units off of Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162262338142?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
One of the reviews:
Exact Fit like OEM
This is a quick fix without going thru the bushing press for the replacement, but the rubber material are not OEM quality, it's extra stiff and hard compare to the OEM unit. Now I don't have the shaking / shimming steering wheel wiggling issue at 55-62 mph on my 2005 LS430. I do need an alignment re-do since I notice a little pull to the left and I have to constantly correct while driving at highway speed.

Johnhav430

I went the OEM route, hoping for the above. There was no such thing, and the shop stated they didn't believe there would be any difference based on what came out (I posted pics here and at least one person stated they were "toast.") Maybe some of this goes back to how "bad" the originals are. The only thing I noticed, and it made it all worthwhile, was a 60-65 mph slight shudder went away. There is no tighter feel, no weightier steering (not sure how that works due to these bushings), the brakes didn't get better, etc. The only thing I can know for sure in my case, is that I have LCA rear bushings that are in tip top shape and new....

now on a Maxima diy YouTube, the person showed how just by moving the LCA by hand, it had total play--I can envision a dramatic improvement there...

Johnhav430

I'm no expert, and almost went the Mevotech route. I thought $85 was cheap for the entire arms, since it included the rear bushings, which list from Toyota @ $113 ea already. But, the same for a Maxima is under $50. I think, these parts are made for shops to use. If a job is accepted as being $1,400 at Lexus, a shop can install a aftermarket, save on labor, and charge say $1000. Customer feels they saved, shop saved big time and profits.

In retrospect, I am glad I did not go sub-OEM. The pressing seems to be "the" only possible justification to do so. It's such a simple deal for a shop who is willing to do it, takes less than 30 min. Cost from this forum should be anywhere from $150 to $300? Using $300, and an eBay price for the bushings at $55 to $60 each for OEM, you're looking at roughly $270 to $420, for OEM, with the labor being the variable. It was like pulling teeth getting someone to do it, but I'm glad I did....my .02 please consider the OEM bushing route, it got rid of my vibration...don't let the pressing discourage you.

tradosauru

Is there any hard evidence that the sub-OEM complete Control arm is that much worse that the OEM bushing that has to be pressed in?

Johnhav430

I would say absolutely not. There cannot be enough data such that the results are reliable nor valid, if you look, this is a rather subjective area. How many on this forum have even replaced the bushings twice, or three times? I would guess most are at one time.

What we do know is that 10 yrs. later, there can be cracks and tears on OEM. Also, if an entire aftermarket arm that includes the bushing sells online for $85, yet a used OEM off of a wreck costs $110, add the bushing $60 off eBay and it's up to $170 or double, there's an implication that they aren't of the same quality. Or, the eBay aftermarket is a super great deal. My thoughts are most of us aren't in a position to experiment, based on time and money.