I just became a member here, and I don't know if you have tech articles somewhere, but I find it very useful when people buy new cars to have some quick guidelines on how to do certain jobs. I just changed my plugs today and I thought I'd share how I did it.
Time: 1-2 hours depending on smoke breaks etc.
Tools: 10mm wrench, deep and short sockets, ratchet, spark plug socket (small type), various extensions long and short, antisieze, dielectric grease.
First of all make sure you have the right plugs with the correct gap (do not try to gap iridium spark plugs unless you are superman and can bend the ground electrode with your finger). I used NGK Laser Iridium. Original plugs are Denso IR.
Start by removing the plastic engine cover held on by two clips and 2 10mm nuts.
This car has a coil-on-plug ignition setup so there is no wire to deal with and you can immediately see that on the driver side without removing anything else. Simply remove the one 10mm bolt holding each coil to the valve cover, and pull it out for each plug. I found that using needle nose pliers made removing the electrical plug much easier. There may be some tight areas against the side of the engine bay, so get creative with extensions, u-joints, or whatever you can use to allow you to insert and remove the plug, socket, and extension without brute force and ignorance.
At the end of the day, I had to remove the black box "thing" connected to the intake tube to get at the passenger side valve cover. To do that I removed one 10mm bolt holding the box down and two 10mm hose clamps on the airbox and throttle body and pulled the whole assembly out. After that you have a ton of room. I also had to move a small bracket held on by a 10mm bolt and 10mm nut on the passenger side to get the second coil from the front. You will see it. I found that putting the back end of my extension under the plastic shock tower cover thingamagigs allowed me to get a straight shot to the plug well without forcing it for about 3 or 4 of the plugs.
For the farthest plug back on the passenger side, I just pushed the battery box in a little bit rather than removing it. It does no damage to the box if you are careful and saves you a bit of time.
When the plug go in, make sure you have some antisieze on the threads. This helps the next time they have to come out. You can also put some dielectric compound to seal the porcelain to the wire boot but it's not absolutely necessary since the whole thing is sealed with rubber gaskets. If you do, make sure it doesn't come in contact with the contact area. Turn the plugs in by hand until you get to zero lash where the gasket starts to crush, then hook up your ratchet.
When you turn it with a ratchet you will feel the crush washer start to crush. You will reach a point when the resistance goes up. Just give it a tug or two at that point and it will be close to where you want it. If you are **** or haven't installed a million spark plugs, get a torque wrench or follow the plug manufacturer instructions.
Put it all back together, say a prayer and feel the difference!