Tom57

They're aluminum, Jab. That's why they stretch. Steel at 80 ft./lbs. doesn't stretch.

Gronemus

Well if true, and hard to tell on such a small sample size, I'd say it was more likely due to the fact that rear pads have a much smaller surface area and also are generally thinner that the fronts. Make no mistake though, the lions share of the braking effort comes from the front.

As far as the LS, I dunno, I think it brakes just fine IMHO. I think Lexus had its intended market dialed in when considering how much braking power was needed for this car. As far as parts cost, I probably won't need any replacement parts for a long time but the price of pads and rotors at Rockauto are well in line with what you would pay for any other common vehicle much less a luxury car...

nthach

The BMW brake pad paste in silver packets is ATE Plastilube, it's good stuff. Just as long as that red CRC sauce or Permatex green/purple brake lube isn't used.

Newer cars with VSC/ESP and EBD tend to do eat the rears quicker - regardless of brand, a friend's Subaru ate the rear brakes a touch past 40K. I'll say the Germans have their brakes down, Japanese brakes tend to be touchy, while American brakes, bleh.

Johnhav430

Yeah I used the BMW branded packets with the quiet paste...but I meant I used some ATE silicone on the guide pins, and the manual clearly states do not use any type of lubricant. It just defied common sense so I did it. Since I know more than BMW engineers lol

Also I kinda wasted the brake parts by replacing the fronts at 48k, but I said I already have them apart and already took the rotors off, just put the new hardware on. The front rotors came off by simply pounding the hat with my fist, and the car was 9 years old. Made the mistake of listening to the forum and bedded the brakes. Once again, in the OEM box, there is a hang tag that a tech is supposed to put on the rearview mirror, instructing the owner to go easy on the brakes for 1000 km.

Last noteworthy thing is on the car's computer, when reset, the fronts show 90,000 miles left, the rears, 45,000 left. So it is totally by design that the rears last 1/2 the life of the fronts, and this is demonstrated by experience as well....

I really like semi metallic myself, perform way better than ceramic, but ah the noise....

JosefR

How do you do that without removing the calipers from the rotor?

TominPT

You have room to squeeze an old pad to push in the pistons, e.g., with some channel lock type plies or by prying with a large screwdriver or something else.
Remove the cap to to the brake fluid reservoir before you push the pistons in.

see this video at the 5:15 mark

LS430inDE.

On every brake pad change I perform, I do a couple more steps.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper being working on, then compress the brake pistons. Opening the bleeder valve is MUCH more effective than taking the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. Opening the bleeder not only relieves pressure better, but allows the nasty old fluid to escape OUT, instead of back INTO the brake lines. That nasty, old, black, used and abused acidic brake fluid that's lived right next to the searingly hot brakes, likely for years and years of non-circulation! Open the bleeder, and push that nastiness out! Just make sure you buy the largest bottle of DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid, top off the reservoir, and press the brake and fill the reservoir and press the brake and fill the reservoir, etc.!