Replacing brake pads on my LS430 was... CAKE!
#33
Driver School Candidate
I replaced pads on all four wheels yesterday. It was evey bit as easy as discribed at the start of this thread. It took longer to take the wheels off & on than changing the pads.
#34
Moderator
Wilkie, do you change with factory pads or aftermarket? I heard if you use factory, the chance of it squeaking and squeeling is slim but aftermarket can cause the noise. Thanks.
#35
Lexus Champion
Airtime,
Buy the ceramic brake pads if you are going to go aftemarket route. There maybe some squeaking when the pads are cool, but after the pads are warm up the queak go away. Ceramic does not generate black dust so the wheels are not as dirty...
Buy the ceramic brake pads if you are going to go aftemarket route. There maybe some squeaking when the pads are cool, but after the pads are warm up the queak go away. Ceramic does not generate black dust so the wheels are not as dirty...
#36
Rookie
iTrader: (15)
Anyways, the procedure is different than the LS430, but it's still simple.
Follow this DIY for the LS400. It's the same procedure for the 2nd gen GS300/400/430
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbpad.html
#37
Driver School Candidate
Airtime, I ordered OEM pads from the following site. These are the same ones Moogy ordered on input #5 on this thread. I went & asked my local dealer & they said they were the same OEM pads they use. I use to replace my own pads on the MBZ's that I have owned in the past & these were just as easy to replace. Probably easier. After installation, their quiet just like the old brakes. My 05/LS430 has 41K miles on it & the pads were about 4mm & very close to rubbing the sinsors.
http://www.******************.com/
http://www.******************.com/
#38
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: CA
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couple questions since I need to do the jobs for my in-laws' LS430 with 30k miles on it.
1. When the warning light comes on, does it mean that I have to replace the pads right away? or I still have couple thousand miles left?
2. I know that there are two sensors, one for front, one for rear. I am assuming it's the front one has gone! However, where's the best source for the sensor? Stealer? or other online vendor?
Thanks.
Jason
1. When the warning light comes on, does it mean that I have to replace the pads right away? or I still have couple thousand miles left?
2. I know that there are two sensors, one for front, one for rear. I am assuming it's the front one has gone! However, where's the best source for the sensor? Stealer? or other online vendor?
Thanks.
Jason
#39
Driver School Candidate
Pickupjason, when the light comes on, I assume either one or both sensors have been rubbed through & will need to be replaced. When you order your pads, I would check & see if they also carry the sensors. I understand the sensors will cost about as much as the pads. From what I could tell, the pads are about 10 mm when new. The sensor will rub thru at about 3mm. When I changed my pads at about 40K miles they were about 4mm thick & about 1 mm from rubbing the sensor. So, when the light comes on, you will need at least one sensor & the pads will have a few more miles left on them. If you check other inputs, some people don't put the sensors in, but wrap them up & tie them some where in the back & they won't have any sensors to warn them when the brakes get worn down.
#40
I did the brakes on my LS today. I have posted some pics of the process. I can't figure out how to show all of the pics in one reply.
Last edited by lex2001; 04-22-08 at 05:42 PM.
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
#41
I guess I can only post one pic at a time so here goes. The pic above is to take the cap off of your brake reservoir. In this one the wheel is off and you see the brake assembly prior to any work.
#42
See the little circle attached to the horizontal pin? That is the cotter pin you must remove. There is a hole in the larger horizontal pin that it sticks in. Grab the circle end with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull straight out. Reverse the process to reinstall.
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
#44
Once the cotter pin is removed you have to remove the large horizontal pin. I used a large nail. You could also use a screwdriver with a narrow shaft. You will have to tap it through with a hammer. It isn't hard but it is under enough tension that you can't push it out by hand. The same goes for reinstalling it.
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)