My first DIY for the LS430...Here comes the BOOM...
#121
This 8" sub has a linear 28mm excursion. It has an Re of 6.3 ohms:
http://creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS_TRIO8.pdf
Available from here: http://creativesound.ca/
http://creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS_TRIO8.pdf
Available from here: http://creativesound.ca/
Last edited by haulin79; 12-15-08 at 12:33 PM.
#122
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xsuperjoex,
I just posted my issue under a different thread and now I realize it may be the same as the issue you have.
In 2006 I bought a 2001 LS430 UL and after a couple of days, I found the sound was set to come only from the front speakers. When I tried to set the sound so it comes from the back speakers also, the back speaker started crackling whenever there is some bass sound from a drum etc. Dealer said they needed to replace "something" for $640. I decided not to spend that money. Then a year later, my front left door speaker is also giving similar crackling sound.
Do you think the issue is the speakers or the amplifier etc?
thanks,
I just posted my issue under a different thread and now I realize it may be the same as the issue you have.
In 2006 I bought a 2001 LS430 UL and after a couple of days, I found the sound was set to come only from the front speakers. When I tried to set the sound so it comes from the back speakers also, the back speaker started crackling whenever there is some bass sound from a drum etc. Dealer said they needed to replace "something" for $640. I decided not to spend that money. Then a year later, my front left door speaker is also giving similar crackling sound.
Do you think the issue is the speakers or the amplifier etc?
thanks,
#123
#124
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sub woofer replacement
thanks for the info.
i just replaced my blown ml sub with the jl 8w0-4 (-4 for 4 ohms) like you and and all is well again. i notice in the box the jl sub came with a JL pamphlet saying they also sell 8 and 12 ohm versions of the 8w0 sub. If I had known that i would have tried the 12 ohm since that is what the ml original is. so far so good with the ml amp.
I would say its a good replacement option and may be slightly better than the ml. i listen with the bass, mid and treble flat. if you push the bass way up and listen @ a loud volume the sub starts to present some distortion due to it being free air, it just does the best it can, quite understandable. For what i am doing its fine. if it was enclosed i am sure you could load it up without problems.
I had a really hard time trying to figure out a replacement, i appreciate the help, and hang in there ml amp. i dug up an electrical diagram and it looks like there are a couple of ml amps in the car. one for the sub and right rear door and another for the rest. so my hope is if the ml amp goes. a much bigger one will be going in, and i might build a custom box for the existing sub hole that goes into the trunk and put in JL 8w7 monster. its just alot of work... but i would guess it would be incredible and look stock.
good luck all....
i just replaced my blown ml sub with the jl 8w0-4 (-4 for 4 ohms) like you and and all is well again. i notice in the box the jl sub came with a JL pamphlet saying they also sell 8 and 12 ohm versions of the 8w0 sub. If I had known that i would have tried the 12 ohm since that is what the ml original is. so far so good with the ml amp.
I would say its a good replacement option and may be slightly better than the ml. i listen with the bass, mid and treble flat. if you push the bass way up and listen @ a loud volume the sub starts to present some distortion due to it being free air, it just does the best it can, quite understandable. For what i am doing its fine. if it was enclosed i am sure you could load it up without problems.
I had a really hard time trying to figure out a replacement, i appreciate the help, and hang in there ml amp. i dug up an electrical diagram and it looks like there are a couple of ml amps in the car. one for the sub and right rear door and another for the rest. so my hope is if the ml amp goes. a much bigger one will be going in, and i might build a custom box for the existing sub hole that goes into the trunk and put in JL 8w7 monster. its just alot of work... but i would guess it would be incredible and look stock.
good luck all....
#125
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Hello everyone. I am looking to replace my woofer. I am having a hard time following all the different suggestions. Can someone who did teh replacement please state what woofer they used so I can place my order. Thank you.
#126
the jl audio sub does work. I also installed the SLI for my ipod. The problem i originally ran across was the system shutting off, so i disconnected the sub and was still having the same problem. I then disconnected the SLI and found that i didn't have my radio harness pushed all the way in. After doing this i have had no problem & the jl audio 8w0 sounds great. thanks for all the help.
#127
So I read this thread and figured that enough people were saying the factory ohm was 2 ohms that I just figured they must know what they were talking about. I went out and bought a 2ohm sub and as soon as the radio started playing and any bass was present, the entire stereo shut down. It obviously looked like an impedence problem so I pulled out the trusty ohm meter and here is what I found: the OEM Mark Levinson sub is 12 ohm not 2 ohm! In rewired the voice coils in serial to get 8 ohm and now it seems to work fine (but obviously still does not have any punch since the amp is junk). I just thought I would give a heads up that if you want to replace the sub, you need to at least look for an 8 ohm unit - 2ohms will definitely trip the amp protect and 4 ohm probably will as well if you add any bass.
#128
Racer
I'm on my 3rd Sub on my 01 430, After what this car cost new, this is a major flaw in the system. I've owned 8 cars over the years, never had a factory speaker blow (as long as I was using the factory complete system, with no 3rd party parts/amps/speakers etc).
Not willing to dump another $200+ on this....
#129
Racer
If your hearing hearing some kind of crack but can still hear the bass, THIS MEANS YOUR SUBWOOFER SURROUNDS ARE TORN. Your subwoofer is not necessarily in need of replacement. Do not assume your sub is permanently damaged, this is EASILY repaired without the trouble of removing the subwoofer.
all you do is remove the grille (it comes out very easily) , use some silicon glue (from home depot 4 bucks) and glue the surround to the plastic ring. I have some pics and upload it tonight.
all you do is remove the grille (it comes out very easily) , use some silicon glue (from home depot 4 bucks) and glue the surround to the plastic ring. I have some pics and upload it tonight.
So looking in my basement, I found a tube of clear silicon that was a few years old but, never opened. So I gave this a shot yesterday, it said on the tube to let it sit for 24 hours to fully cure. So I did.
Today, I took my car for a ride and tried to crank it up, Sounds great, no poping or anything else and very clear sounding. Let's see, $250 or $3 and both work the same...
I know it's a old post but, anyone else with this issue, give this a shot if you don't want to replace the sub....
#130
I am in shock. The sub I have in my car (ML system) is the 3rd one (I don't even really listen to top 40 too much, mostly rock and never really "blast" it). At the cost of these things, it ticks me off. Crappy quality of the speaker.
So looking in my basement, I found a tube of clear silicon that was a few years old but, never opened. So I gave this a shot yesterday, it said on the tube to let it sit for 24 hours to fully cure. So I did.
Today, I took my car for a ride and tried to crank it up, Sounds great, no poping or anything else and very clear sounding. Let's see, $250 or $3 and both work the same...
I know it's a old post but, anyone else with this issue, give this a shot if you don't want to replace the sub....
So looking in my basement, I found a tube of clear silicon that was a few years old but, never opened. So I gave this a shot yesterday, it said on the tube to let it sit for 24 hours to fully cure. So I did.
Today, I took my car for a ride and tried to crank it up, Sounds great, no poping or anything else and very clear sounding. Let's see, $250 or $3 and both work the same...
I know it's a old post but, anyone else with this issue, give this a shot if you don't want to replace the sub....
How to remove the grill???? I tried but I'm afraid to break it
What tools do I need to use?
#131
Racer
I am still in shock....
#132
BUT, my subwoofer is attached already, there is nothing off!!. I turned it on, and the sound was horrible . I think I might need to change it
am I right?
#133
Racer
If this is the case, this process will work for you.
You say horrible, but, that does not tell me what the problem is, do you just not like the bass (it's not that "banging" if your looking for that) or are you having audio problems ?
If your looking for more slam, then a replacement sub/amp might be the way for you to go.
#134
[QUOTE=98cruiser;4967621]Damn bro im following your thread, cause I installed a 8", 4ohms, free air kicker and its doing the same thing, not sure if it was cutting off before, cause I just bought my 02 430. I thought it was the new sub, can you tell me what you did, and how you did it, was it hard.........need some details bro....thanks alot[/Q
my male & female connectors weren't plugged all the way in so i just made sure connections were good. i also realized (after looking at box, i have an 8w0-8) still kicking pretty good.
ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-SUBWOOF...DLVI%26ps%3D63
my male & female connectors weren't plugged all the way in so i just made sure connections were good. i also realized (after looking at box, i have an 8w0-8) still kicking pretty good.
ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-SUBWOOF...DLVI%26ps%3D63
#135
if you measure 12 ohms, its a 16 ohms woofer. not available at every corner but often in professional audio. ML seems to use it because it gives the amp a high damping factor, ver good control of the cone, many times better control than using a 8 ohm or less woofer. you loose 1/2 of your watts but gain twice control. thats all and thats simple.