additude

Where is the fuel filter on a 97 LS 400?

Thanks.

LexLS

Even though I've got a first gen your fuel filter might be nearby if not in the same location as mine. Look underneath your car right in front of the driver's side rear wheel. It's not that big and there should be a metal shield beneath it.

lspower

when do you change them every......?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The fuel filter is listed at the 60K mile service schedule for replacement.

lspower

thank you

additude

The fuel filter on the 97 LS400 is located on the right center just above the rear axle.

Now I seem to be getting an endless flow of gas when I crack the nuts loose.

Is this normal or is there a way to stop the flow of gas without draining the gas tank just to replace the filter?

Thanks,

RA40

iTrader: (6)

I didn't perform this service on mine...I do remember reading in one manual (May not have been the LS) that this is a pressurized line so there will be gas flow until the pressure is relieved.

additude

I disconnected the negative lead on the battery, disconnected both fuel lines in the engine compartment, took the gas cap off and still had a terrible fuel leak. I finally ended up using 3 vise grips and a "C" clamp to squeeze the inlet tube that goes from the bottom of the fuel tank to the filter.

However I still had a fuel dribbling out of the inlet hose.

I managed to change the filter, but I lost about 2 gallons of fuel in the whole process.

To do it again, I would use something else to make sure that inlet hose was pinched shut, like a shim on top and on the bottom to make sure the hose was pinched completely shut.. Then the only drain should be from the engine compartment back.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the head's-up on the fuel flowing. The LS service manual is vague in removal...kinda like, remove fuel filter. ???!

additude

And BTW, I have about 80K on the car and the fuel filter material was black inside, compared to a light tan whitish color on the new one.

It didn't fix any problems on my car, but it's not going to create any in the future either.

You will need 3 wrenches, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm and an 10mm deep well socket with 9" of extension off the ratchet.

The 19mm is the holding wrench on the filter while you use the others to turn the opposite direction.

Crack and drain the inlet side of the filter first, then completely remove the flange pressure nut on the outlet side. This nut is a big "B" to get off and can easily be stripped so just take the time and make sure the 14mm is on it securly for each turn. It will feel loose at first, right after you crack it and you can turn it with your fingers, but then it gets very tight as you unthread it and will take a good 5 or 10 mins of 1/4 turns to get off. Be patient and just work at it.

After it is off, remove the inlet side, which is a pressure bolt. Watch out there is an aluminum washer that can drop off. There should be two of these washers, one on top just under the head and one on bottom of the bolt. After that remove the nuts holding the filter onto the chassis. Do this last because it helps with leverage and stability of the filter when removing the inlet and outlet nuts.

Reverse the order for install. Pay special attention to the outlet flange pressure nut. It would be easy to strip the threads if you don't get it started correctly and you wouldn't know it because of how tight the thread fit already is. It would be a real bummer to screw the threads up on this nut.

lspower

it was a sob and i still couldnt break it loose the nut closer to the front of the car....the back nut was easy i couldnt get it off...its kinda stripped now
what should i do? / how could i get it off?

thanks
ryan

additude

Maybe the only thing to do is to spray it with some WD-40 and let it sit awhile. You can also dry using a hair dryer to heat it up then try turning it.

You are going to have to be extremely careful, if you use something like a vise grip, channel locks or pliers because you might do more harm in squeezing the nut out of round and compound your problems.

If it is stripped enough so that you can possibly take a flat file and square up a couple of sides then maybe you can get it started.

Worse case is you cut the line and braise a new nut and flange on. However you may be able to cut the line and then use some gas line rubber hose to patch with some stainless steel hose clamps.

If you are sawing to cut that line, be careful because you will have fine metal shavings inside the line on the outlet side that will not get filtered. These will get pushed up to the engine and you'll have another problem, so you will need to definately back flush that line. Use pressurized air and see if you can run some gas backward through it.

csaxon

IF YOU USE AN ELECTRIC HAIR DRYER AROUND GAS FUMES "YOU WILL DIE" DON'T DO IT!!!!

csaxon

IF YOU USE AN ELECTRIC HAIR DRYER AROUND GAS FUMES "YOU WILL DIE" DON'T DO IT!!!!:

additude

Oh, Did I mention that after you heat up the nut to try and break it free to turn the hair dryer off....just in case you wern't smart enough to think of that yourself.