PlatinumV8

Hello everyone. My 1990 LS wrecked it's alternator years back from a leaking idle up valve on that cursed power steering pump. ATF fluid based system and sits above and to the side of alternator, a very expensive high output alternator.

So when my 2000 LS idle up valve began leaking I jumped on it and took out the valve and welded it solid and thought it was fixed. Just recently a new drip started from the high pressure line where it attached to the pump. Damn it! Read about how the gasket that seals the two halve of the pump fail too and thought I've got to protect the alternator while I find a replacement pump and lines to fix this permanently.

Looked around and found the bleach bottle hack online and after wrestling the alternator out after taking off the power steering pump pulley, figured I'd not want to add a bulky piece of plastic to the battle needed to get it back in. (Note: remove the two tiny wiring harness brackets on 2nd Gen LS alternators to get them out. Mine would not come out with them still on.) Plus it looks like it would hinder cooling.

Instead I used a thick sheet of black silicone rubber to lay over the top and power steering side of the alternator. It stays in place by making an H shape cut in the area of the upper stud hole on the alternator and punching a round hole in the area of the large copper stud on the alternator that charges the battery and powers the electrical system. Remove the plastic mount for the wiring harness rubber elbow and slip it into the hole in the rubber sheet and replace onto alternator and affix with one of the two nuts and use the second unscrewed to the end of copper stud to protect threads while maneuvering alternator back into car.

In essence it acts like the bottom of a western duster coat or long dress. When the car is stopped and dripping the silicone rubber 'skirt' directs ATF fluid away from the alternator. While driving airflow and cooling fan action lift it up agaisnt the pump and airflow to the alternator is nearly uninterrupted.

How do I know it works? After all that I forgot to put the cap back on the power steering pump reservoir and had to clean up a huge mess off my shop floor after backing out and seeing the bloodbath. Not a drop touched the alternator out of the half a quart lost during that screw up. The silicone rubber is good to 700 degrees and can't even be seen without being pointed out as it is matte black.

Debbie

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

A few good photos would have given your words real meaning to some of us slow thinkers... what do you think??

PlatinumV8

My business partner says my fix it good enough to sell online, since the silicone is expensive to buy for just a single pump shield, the attachment method is not obvious and all of these pumps leak eventually. I'm not sure if it would have enough demand and thought I'd mention it on here and see if anyone else puts value on my invention. I'll post a pic when I get back from the office today. I took them on my offline digital camera. I don't want any of my pictures hacked via IPhone cloud access. So many of my female friends have found private images of themselves online.

DerekD1010

iTrader: (1)

TL;DR show us some pictures please instead of a convoluted description. IMO wouldn't it be easier to build a catch for the power steering fluid instead of covering the alternator?

PlatinumV8

Derek,

Tell me how your really feel. Triggered?

A catch? Explain how that would work. C'mon show me your simple solution, since you deficated on my engineering description of the LS400 power steering paradigm.

Debbie

DerekD1010

iTrader: (1)

Are you trolling?

fixmiester

These methods to shield​ the alternator are dubious, because it takes LESS effort to actually fix the problem. In 99% of these cases, the leaking is caused by the idle-up valve and/or the center pump O-ring. It's easier to remove the pump, open the case, put on a new O-ring, and plug (or replace) the IAC valve, than it is to go through all these gyrations to make temporary "repairs". A seal kit is available from Rockauto for about $15, which contains numerous rings and seals, but I only used the one that I knew was bad; the large o-ring between the two pump halves. No more leaks in the three years since. Takes about two hours.

PlatinumV8

Did you replace all the other crush washers, hoses and seals at the same time with rock auto parts too? My point is that the design is flawed and leaks will happen again if you are daily driving an LS400. Rebuilds are failing right at start up, plenty of people upset with Cardone and how they offshored all their work. Now when I see drips I can spray down the pump and hoses to clean things up and look for the culprit. Before I'd be just trashing my alternators on those two LS's of mine. My center gasket on the 2000 is just fine, ended up being the big pressure hose dual crush washer needed re-torquing. How's your port on the top of the pump? The one with the snap ring? Seeping yet? It will, or did you fail to mention replacing it? It's a junk system that will eventually destory the alternator left unprotected. Plus how many out there have nightmare times trying to bleed that system after a pump or rack rebuild. Google knows.

IWx33

My 1990 was built in October 1989 and is one of the first 10,000 LS400s ever built. It purchased it from the original owner 3 years ago with roughly 170,000 miles on it and the power steering valve didn't fail until last year, when the pump had reached 26 years of age. I removed the valve, plugged it and sealing the port, and I have not had leaks since. I did not replace anything else. The system is not "junk", there was just a simple design oversight with the inclusion of that valve, and once removed, you should see no more problems. Most people remove the valve, which eliminates the source of PS fluid leaks forever, or they decide to replace it with another one, which extends the life of the feature (if they so desire to keep it) for another 25+ years.

I also like how you are admitting that this is intended to be a sales pitch for a product for a niche market of cars that you will intentionally overcharge for that is a solution to a problem that you have over-exaggerated. Stay classy.

fixmiester

Yes, I replaced the high pressure release o ring, since it was very accessable. These pumps are not a junk design; but o rings don't last forever. And you may be surprised to know that ATF doesn't actually kill the alternator, it simply interferes with the electrical connection at the stator brushes. In the vast majority of cases, removal and internal cleaning solves the problem. It's the placement of the LS 400 alternator that makes it vulnerable to oil contamination, whereas most cars just create a nuisance out of a small pump leak. Since you think this is a good business opportunity, go for it.