Front wheel bearings for my 97
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Front wheel bearings for my 97
When doing a search online, it says that 98-00 have different wheel bearings than my 97 would.
I thought all 95-00 models had the same knuckle setup in front? Would I need to get bearings from 95-97 LS400s or would one from a 98+ still fit and work fine?
Rockauto is where I initially looked and they didn't designate a different part number when I searched between 97 or 98.
My car has a production date of 11/96 if that matters. What part number should I look for replacement bearings?
I thought all 95-00 models had the same knuckle setup in front? Would I need to get bearings from 95-97 LS400s or would one from a 98+ still fit and work fine?
Rockauto is where I initially looked and they didn't designate a different part number when I searched between 97 or 98.
My car has a production date of 11/96 if that matters. What part number should I look for replacement bearings?
#2
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (1)
The bearings are different and not compatible.
For 95-97 the Beck Arnley bearing is an 051-3981
For a 98-00 the Beck Arnley bearing is an 051-4135
The dimensions of an 051-3981 is as follows:
Bore: 34mm
OD: 77mm
Inner Ring: 42mm
Outer Ring: 42mm
The dimensions of an 051-4135 is as follows:
Bore: 35mm
OD: 77mm
Inner Ring: 42mm
Outer Ring: 42mm
Same outside diameter, different inside.
For 95-97 the Beck Arnley bearing is an 051-3981
For a 98-00 the Beck Arnley bearing is an 051-4135
The dimensions of an 051-3981 is as follows:
Bore: 34mm
OD: 77mm
Inner Ring: 42mm
Outer Ring: 42mm
The dimensions of an 051-4135 is as follows:
Bore: 35mm
OD: 77mm
Inner Ring: 42mm
Outer Ring: 42mm
Same outside diameter, different inside.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok, So I ordered the Beck Arnley bearings for my LS. I made sure to get the correct ones. They were rather reasonable at 25.50 for each one + shipping on Amazon.
Would I need to purchase the oil seal? or are those generally not needed and in good shape upon removal?
I'm used to just purchasing the bearings on my Honda, so I would've thought the new bearing would come with new seals?
Would I need to purchase the oil seal? or are those generally not needed and in good shape upon removal?
I'm used to just purchasing the bearings on my Honda, so I would've thought the new bearing would come with new seals?
#5
Moderator
Yes definitely buy a new oil seal. For the small amount of money involved why wouldn't you? The only parts you may be able to salvage and re use are the snap ring and grease cap. They are both cheap and shouldn't be ignored. All these parts are critical if you have the hub torn apart to this extreme there's no need to nickel and dime....
BTW for future reference- Timken is the ONLY bearing to buy if you're not buying from Lexus/Toyota.
BTW for future reference- Timken is the ONLY bearing to buy if you're not buying from Lexus/Toyota.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Looks like I lucked out and got some new old stock genuine KOYO bearings.
One was packaged in plastic, the other was just in the box.
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#8
My 99LS has 225K miles, changed rear wheel bearings a year ago, time for front ones, right front is just starting to make noise, can hear it only at high speeds.
1.If just one is making noise, replace both, correct?
2.Do I need alignment after bearing job?
3.It's ok to reuse the hub, correct?
1.If just one is making noise, replace both, correct?
2.Do I need alignment after bearing job?
3.It's ok to reuse the hub, correct?
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
My 99LS has 225K miles, changed rear wheel bearings a year ago, time for front ones, right front is just starting to make noise, can hear it only at high speeds.
1.If just one is making noise, replace both, correct?
2.Do I need alignment after bearing job?
3.It's ok to reuse the hub, correct?
1.If just one is making noise, replace both, correct?
2.Do I need alignment after bearing job?
3.It's ok to reuse the hub, correct?
An alignment may help, as the front LCA have the provisions to adjust camber with a cam type bolt. But if there isn't any slop in the bearings when you have your car jacked in the air and shake the wheel (3&9 or 12&6), you should be fine. I would only do it if extreme play is found, such as I had when replacing my lower balljoints. I had about 1/4-1/2" of vertical play. I swapped in a low mileage, 95k knuckle with what I presumed was a good wheel bearing but it turned out to be slightly noisy, I took at chance since it was only 25 bucks. But I'm not experiencing any pull of any kind so you should be alright. I'm not realigning since I'm just unbolting the LBJ from the knuckle and knocking the UCA balljoint off, so I'm not messing with the alignment.
The hub should be fine to reuse, but if the bearing has been bad for awhile and there are obvious score marks or hot spots from the inner race physically spinning on the axle shaft, then I would replace it, as it's not the intended true size and will lead to another premature bearing failure soon.
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valex (04-21-17)
#10
Changed my Front Right bearing yesterday on my 99LS, old bearing (original) says NACHI on it.
I got new KOYO in. Used my 12ton press for the first time. I will see if the noise disappears, perhaps do the other side later. Took me almost 6 hours that one side from pulling the knuckle out to test drive after putting it back together.
There was no play in the wheel before, pretty solid, people who don't know the car couldn't hear the bearing noise, since it wasn't that bad, but I know how quiet it can be
Didn't do alignment, since the re was no slop before.
Going on a trip tomorrow, will find out how quiet it is now!
I got new KOYO in. Used my 12ton press for the first time. I will see if the noise disappears, perhaps do the other side later. Took me almost 6 hours that one side from pulling the knuckle out to test drive after putting it back together.
There was no play in the wheel before, pretty solid, people who don't know the car couldn't hear the bearing noise, since it wasn't that bad, but I know how quiet it can be
Didn't do alignment, since the re was no slop before.
Going on a trip tomorrow, will find out how quiet it is now!
Last edited by valex; 04-21-17 at 07:58 PM. Reason: adding
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Changed my Front Right bearing yesterday on my 99LS, old bearing (original) says NACHI on it.
I got new KOYO in. Used my 12ton press for the first time. I will see if the noise disappears, perhaps do the other side later. Took me almost 6 hours that one side from pulling the knuckle out to test drive after putting it back together.
There was no play in the wheel before, pretty solid, people who don't know the car couldn't hear the bearing noise, since it wasn't that bad, but I know how quiet it can be
Didn't do alignment, since the re was no slop before.
Going on a trip tomorrow, will find out how quiet it is now!
I got new KOYO in. Used my 12ton press for the first time. I will see if the noise disappears, perhaps do the other side later. Took me almost 6 hours that one side from pulling the knuckle out to test drive after putting it back together.
There was no play in the wheel before, pretty solid, people who don't know the car couldn't hear the bearing noise, since it wasn't that bad, but I know how quiet it can be
Didn't do alignment, since the re was no slop before.
Going on a trip tomorrow, will find out how quiet it is now!
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UNCNOR (04-23-17)
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